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Changing a flat

GypsiesAtHeart2
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Guys,

I'd like some info on gear to change a flat by myself.

Yes I do have roadside assistance but I hate waiting 1 hr for them to get there, then change the tire & write the bill, all in all 1 - 1.5 hrs. And that's in town.

The biggest trouble is breaking the lug nuts. Now I'm trying that with a 4 way. Once, or if, that's done I can change a tire & be on my way in 20 minutes or so.

I do have an extra charged deep cycle battery with a 2000 watt inverter.

I am wondering if a 125 psi, 1.85 scfm compressor with a 1 - 2 gal tank & an impact gun would work to get 8 lugs off. I would power it thru the inverter.

I am not looking to do this on a regular basis. Hoping I never have to.

Another option is a 18 volt battery impact wrench. Or an electric one run thru the inverter.

I am towing a 5th wheel full time & don't have room for a larger compressor.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.
2014 Forest River Wildcat 293 REX
2012 GMC 3500 HD SRW CC LB Diesel
33 REPLIES 33

Ductape
Explorer
Explorer
Low tech is best for unplanned emergencies. Breaker bar and pipe makes it easy.

Do not lube threads. Torque values are computed dry in almost all cases. Check your manual to see if yours is an exception.
49 States, 6 Provinces, 2 Territories...

Tvov
Explorer II
Explorer II
Tom/Barb wrote:
While you are at home loosen and retorque each nut, and be certain you can break them loose when you need to. then all you really need is a breaker bar and proper socket, and an extension to get the brakes bar out beyond the rim. (or a 4 leg)

This doesn't need to be complicated.

But a good torque wrench is a great tool.


This is pretty much what I do if my wheels are put on by a garage / tire shop. Every tire place I've seen uses impact wrenches that drive lug nuts on incredibly tight.

Interestingly, I have talked to dealer mechanics who say they are required by their job to use those pre-set lug sockets (usually color coded) on their air wrenches that prevent over tightening. Which is a great thing to say - until I bring home a dually from a dealer that has half the lug nuts loose.

Anyways, I usually change my own tires, and if it is done by a shop I try to "re-change" them at my house so that lug nuts aren't impossible to take off.
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

WTP-GC
Explorer
Explorer
I have a newer-style Makita 18V 1/2" impact (lithium ion battery). I didn't buy it specifically for the RV, but I do take it with me anytime I travel. The key is to get the full-size version, not a compact. For example, I think the compact versions of the Makita and DeWalt have about 180 ft-lbs torque (tightening), whereas the full size versions do about 345 ft-lbs or so. I have tightened bolts/nuts with it and checked them with my high-quality air impact (just for the heck of it), and the air impact couldn't tighten any further. I carry 3 diffeent size deep well impact sockets: 7/8" for truck wheels, 13/16" for camper wheels, and 3/4" for the stabilizer jacks. I don't always take the charger with me, but I do take 2 fully charged batteries.

I also carry a 10-ton bottle jack. I'll be upgrading the stabilizer jacks later this week, and since the old ones still work, I'll throw them in the front basement compartment to also help if the situation becomes desperate. I don't carry around any extra wood or pads, other than what I oridnarily carry in the camper for chocking, leveling, etc.
Duramax + Grand Design 5er + B & W Companion
SBGTF

Halmfamily
Explorer
Explorer
Keep a 4' piece of hollow fence post in your truck. Makes a great breaker bar, pry bar, weapon etc.and cheap.
2008 GMC Sierra 3500 SLT DRW D/A 4x4 (Big All)
2006 Ford F350 PSD SRW King Ranch 4x4 (Henry) (Sold)
B&W Companion, 90 Aux Fuel Tank, Scan Gauge II, Curt f/m hitch, Swagman XC
2015 Forest River Sierra 360 PDEK
DW Diane, DS Michael, FB Draco and Sabian

LowRyter
Explorer
Explorer
the worst of it is one of those factory screw jacks. Dang near gave me a heart attack. And of course the left front blew out and I was trying to change it on the shoulder on 75 mph I-10 hooked with my 5th wheel.

Kind of scary with all the traffic whizzing by.
John L
WW SL 2805 5th Wheel
2004.5 Chevy 2500HD Allison Duramax X Cab
Ducati 939 SS, Moto Guzzi V11 Sport, Moto Guzzi EV California and Suzuki 1200 Bandit

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Had a roadside tire blow on my 5vr while on I-35 KS.

I carry a 1/2" breaker bar, 6 point socket, 1/2" torque wrench, bottle jacks and small tarp for throwing down on ground.

But with all the traffic whizzing by I was NOT looking forward to it.

Just when I was setting up a KS DOT truck pulled up behind me and driver jumped out with a battery operated 1/2" impact
Brrp, Brrp, Brrp, Brrp, Brrp, Brrp, Brrp, Brrp and 8 lug nuts were removed.

I bought one before we left our next CG out of Hutchinson
KISS you bet cause that impact wrench kept it simple.VERY simple and FAST
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
While you are at home loosen and retorque each nut, and be certain you can break them loose when you need to. then all you really need is a breaker bar and proper socket, and an extension to get the brakes bar out beyond the rim. (or a 4 leg)

This doesn't need to be complicated.

But a good torque wrench is a great tool.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
I have an onboard generator and carry an electric impact wrench to loosen lugs. I still carry a torque wrench to to make sure the nuts are on properly. As already posted, carry deep 6-sided sockets that will work with your impact and torque wrenches.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
I carry a 24" breaker bar and a deepwell socket to fit my lug nuts. I know that I can get my lug nuts loose with that. Cheaper, smaller, and more reliable than any impact wrench. Maybe a short cheater pipe if you're feeling a little weak one morning. KISS.

Don't use a torque wrench to loosen nuts that you don't know the torque on.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
blt2ski wrote:
The inverter and a 110v 1/2" impact wrench will work too.

Altho I personally prefer the longest 1/2" breaker bar I can get, appropriate deep socket. If need be, a pipe at the end to get a bit more leverage and I am on my way.

I have had a sears 110v impact driver since about age 18 or there abouts. Still works well!

Marty


Added one to the trucks tools, and the correct deep socket (six point). If torqued on correctly the 18" breaker bar will get them off.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

youngone
Explorer
Explorer
Pick up some anti seize lubricant at the auto store and put it on the lugs so next time the nuts will come off easy.

shepstone
Explorer
Explorer
Breaker bar, pipe, extension , and impact socket, then either cordless impact gun to speed it up once loosened or rachet
2017 F350 Ruby Red Super Cab Dually 6.7 3.55 gears. B&W Companion 25K. BackRack. Gatorback mud guards. AUX65FCBRG aux tank. 2021 GD 380fl
2010 GMC Savanna 3500 extended 6.0

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
The compressor is only half of it. There are a lot of very weak pathetic pneumatic impact wrenches out there. One of the best ones on the market it the Proto J150WP that has 1260 foot pounds of breakaway torque. Cost is $334.78 on Amazon. Don't just buy the brand, because even Proto, Snap-On, and Mac all put out cheap ones also.

Proto 1/2" impact clicky

I bought a new 18V DeWalt and it won't break loose the lugs on my pick-up truck. I still use a 30" pipe on the breaker bar. I was even more disappointed in the DeWalt when it wouldn't break loose the 1/2" track bolts on my Nodwell below.

When you buy either an electric or pneumatic impact, try it right away so that you might be able to take it back if it doesn't work for you.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
I used one of these to break the nuts loose and it works on even over tightened by a impact wrench lug nuts. If the nut is really tight just put this wrench on so you and press down on the handle with your foot to break it loose:

Amazon

The other major tool is a good bottle jack at least a 12 ton, and a piece of 3/4 inch plywood to put under it.

Bottle jack

The jack will sink into soft ground and the RV will not go up. For safety sake a jack stand should be used after you jack up the RV. The biggest issue I've had is getting the $#@%% spare tire out from under the RV.

I carried a pancake compressor around to use with my Honda 2K and a impact wrench, but its a lot more trouble than digging that wrench above out and using it. You'll have the wheel off before you'd be done fooling around with the other stuff. This is a case where KISS applies: Keep It Simple S-----

Oh yeah I forgot that we bought this last year:

Ramp

It works if you have a dual axle and no jack needed tho we still carry one.
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Electric 1/2" drive Impact, battery powered. DeWalt, Milwaukee or most name brands. Make sure it has enough torque to get the bolts loose.

B.O.

X2 - also carry a large breaker bar with a deep-well socket. Works well on stubborn nuts when you stand on the breaker bar like you were kick-starting a motorcycle.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.