Configuration for keeping the fridge going while driving

Doesn't it need the battery for the ignitet on propane?

while traveling put the frig on propane, on battery it,ll kill the battery in a few hours.

THe fridge needs battery power connected to it to run on Propane. The battery power runs the electronics and igniter.

Set it on Propane with battery power connected to it and all should be well.

The propane flame is blowing out because it is either not burning correctly, or the flame needs to be protected from the wind better. Your burner might need cleaning.

Trying to run the fridge off battery is a waste of time. You would need a ton of solar to even begin to keep up.

mkirsch wrote:
The propane flame is blowing out because it is either not burning correctly, or the flame needs to be protected from the wind better. Your burner might need cleaning.

Trying to run the fridge off battery is a waste of time. You would need a ton of solar to even begin to keep up.

Aye solar isn't viable. To make it work running off the battery and perform decently, you'll have to duplicate what I did.

Before you even get started, make sure your truck has at least a 120 amp alternator and what's its maximum continuous load rating is, you will need to upgrade most likely.

First off, you're going to need to upgrade your battery cables to be sure they're at least 4 Gauge. Next, you're going to need to run and install a dedicated charge circuit with 4 gauge wire going from your alternator back to your camper's batteries (plural, you need either a couple of good golf carts in series or two Group 31s) with the same size plug (100amp lift gate plug works well for this),

Once you have all that, you'll need at least a 400watt inverter and setup some method of switching the outlet from shore feed to the inverter.

Wire the inverter up correctly with at least six gauge wire and an appropriately sized inline fuse.

Now, you can run your fridge on 110 going down the road without killing your batteries, charge your batteries efficiently off the alternator and have it stay properly cold while driving.

My rig has a 2-way fridge, and the propane doesn't auto-relight (no electronics), so I built this setup which worked very well at keeping my fridge cold going down the road, and I didn't have to worry about blowing my arse up if I forgot to turn off the burner while fueling.

Hold on a second, I can set my fridge on auto on my cheap TT and drive all day without fancy inverters and solar help. The flame on mine is enclosed enough it won't blow out. You have to have a charged battery to fire the igniter. Something's wrong with this picture.

We all run the fridge on propane. Usage of propane to run fridge while traveling is negligible. The flame should NOT blow out on a properly functioning unit.

You need to focus on what is making the flame blow out, repair it and you should be good to go.

I had this problem on my 13 yr Norcold. I had a weak flame so cleaned the burn tip that was full of carbon with a soft wire ss tooth brush. No more problem. I noted Wow!that's how it used to sound when new.

You need to clean ref period

rockhillmanor wrote:
We all run the fridge on propane. Usage of propane to run fridge while traveling is negligible. The flame should NOT blow out on a properly functioning unit.

You need to focus on what is making the flame blow out, repair it and you should be good to go.

Haven't figured out how to "fix" 60+ mph side gusts that aren't uncommon crossing the desert of eastern Oregon in a north-to-south direction.

I tried everything that would solve that, cleaning the thermocouple, adjusting the shutter, hell I even duct-taped over parts of the vents to try and block the wind that was getting pile driven into the side vent and down through the top vent that kept blowing it out.

For those that don't think theirs is going out, it likely is when a broadside hits, the difference is, your unit is relighting it and just simply hasn't had it happen often enough in a row to trip the fault and shut down the fridge ;).