dead batteries

If the batteries are 3 to 4 years old you may have one or more bad batteries or cells that affect the ability to stay charged even with the solar. I find with today's batteries I'm lucky if they last more than 4 years in my RV.

With solar even on cloudy days you should get some juice from the solar panels to recharge or keep your batteries charged.

daddyfarlessa wrote:
I have a 2014 Airstream.It has 3 solar panels. I use to live in S.Calif where the solar panels kept my 2 batteries always in full charge; most days were sunny there. Now I live in N. Calif and there is less sun.When I go to use my trailer, the batteries are dead (even though I have solar panels).Should I disconnect the batteries after camping? Thanx, Mark

How long (number of days) does it take for the 2 batteries to go dead?

What size are these 2 batteries?

What is the battery voltage that is left when you call them dead?

Have you ever put an amp meter between the battery and the camper leads to measure the amount of current drain coming from the camper when you are in a camper storage mode?

2 batteries going dead should take a real long time unless there is a drain on them coming from the camper or very cold conditions. Usually everything inside the camper can be turned off expect the LP gas detector that has no switch. And even the LP detector will over time, drain a battery. But the solar I would think overcome the LP detector without much problem.

This sounds like something in the camper is pulling way more power then the solar can put out or should be. You may have gotten by with it before as the higher sun output was masking the larger draw. And or, now something else is left on inside the camper creating a larger draw.

By chance does your refrigerator have a sweating condensation moisture strip? My Dometic fridge does and the moisture strip is actually a 12 volt heat strip. I always have that off or it will drain a battery fast while boondocking. The roof top antenna power booster needs to be turned off too and pull the fuse on the radio.

Hope this helps

John

Check the input and the output of the solar controller.
Post make and model of controller and solar panels.

Have you verified if the solar is still working on a sunny day?

The statement of "3 solar panels" is very vague. What size? Could be anywhere between 5 watt and 150 watt.

What load is on the system? Leave anything running?

I have been using solar on my trailers for about 6 years. Started with one 100w panel, and one 110aH Group 27 battery. Did well, except when camped for a week with rain most of every day.

Installed second 100w panel, and second Grp 27 battery. Even camping in the winter in Colorado (dry, running furnace and 'fridge), I was never low on juice.

Now have new trailer with 2 160w panels, and 2 Grp 27 (110aH ea) batteries. Have not been below 80% on the batteries, even after running furnace overnight (20° each night) last weekend.

You seem to have a problem of 1) getting recharge current to your batteries, 2) batteries capable of holding a charge, or 3) something is drawing way more juice from your batteries than the solar is putting back. If that is the case, unless you have less than 50w of panels, you have a problem.

Check you batteries, first. Then, if they are okay, can you isolate your trailer from the batteries, so you can be charging with solar, but not have anything drawing power from the batteries? If it charges fine with trailer circuits disconnected, then you will know your batteries are fine, your solar is working, and you have something in your trailer that is drawing way too much current from your batteries (when trailer circuits are connected to batteries.)

All of the above is good info.My experience with AS and solar panels leads me to ask if the panels are charging with the batteries in the off position?

It is pretty simple, if you draw more power than you generate, your batteries will run down.

If you are sure your solar system is working, you can, as already suggested, measure battery input vs. measure battery output and know your power loss or gain.

Or, just disconnect the battery's TT load when not in use and let the solar charge as best it can between trips.

Disconnect the batteries and charge them independently and see if they charge and hold a charge without being hooked up to anything. That way you will know if the batts are good or not. When you hook things back up,use a meter to view what is drawing on the batteries.

Since the trailer is not that old you probably have more "parasitic" draw than you realize. Anything that is controlled by a remote, has a clock function, or a pilot light is never really off and will have current draw unless actually disconnected from its power source.