Dexcool vs. Universal coolant
What's your thoughts on mixing universal coolant with Dexcool orange? The label on the universal says it can be mixed with any coolant of any make. I personally don't feel good about it. But, out o...
Forum Discussion
American Green is silica based protection
DeathCool is organic based protection. OATs for GM and HOATs for non-GM. Organic Acid Technology and Hybrid Organic Technology
Since organic protection, it needs all metal parts to be acid etched down to bare metal before the organic material can plate a protective layer
Extra acid in the formulation for down the road re-etching and re-plating
Etched metal is in the form of an acidic oxide that is held in suspension
O2 in that mix is bad news. As the O2 will react with the acid oxide to turn into sticky, gelatinous globs during a cooling phase (in any of the radiators of the system). Where it will both block the radiator core tubes and continue to eat metal surfaces
That acidic glob has metal oxides within them and makes the liquid more conductive and is another issue. This creates a battery and there is electrolysis process inside the cooling system. Another reason to never open it up (unless recharging/fill or flushing). The why coolant work has a DOM used to check voltage inside the coolant system
The first gen had huge problems and where I nicknamed it DeathCool. Plus where started my Suburban/SUV/Pickup forum trying to find info or anyone who knew what was going on.
I'm the type that checks fluids often. Coolant and oil the most often. Did NOT know at that time, DeathCool does NOT do well with O2 in there.
Why these next gen automotive radiator systems now have a pressurized overflow bottle. Some OEMs even removed the radiator cap to keep folks from opening up the coolant system to air (O2)
I've switched my Suburban's 7.4L to American Green around 1998 or so
I do NOT recommend anyone with later vehicles to do so, nor mix with American Green and/or between OATs and HOATs. Especially those with closed, pressurized over flow bottles. The translucent over flow bottle is the way to check coolant level and condition
DeathCool is organic based protection. OATs for GM and HOATs for non-GM. Organic Acid Technology and Hybrid Organic Technology
Since organic protection, it needs all metal parts to be acid etched down to bare metal before the organic material can plate a protective layer
Extra acid in the formulation for down the road re-etching and re-plating
Etched metal is in the form of an acidic oxide that is held in suspension
O2 in that mix is bad news. As the O2 will react with the acid oxide to turn into sticky, gelatinous globs during a cooling phase (in any of the radiators of the system). Where it will both block the radiator core tubes and continue to eat metal surfaces
That acidic glob has metal oxides within them and makes the liquid more conductive and is another issue. This creates a battery and there is electrolysis process inside the cooling system. Another reason to never open it up (unless recharging/fill or flushing). The why coolant work has a DOM used to check voltage inside the coolant system
The first gen had huge problems and where I nicknamed it DeathCool. Plus where started my Suburban/SUV/Pickup forum trying to find info or anyone who knew what was going on.
I'm the type that checks fluids often. Coolant and oil the most often. Did NOT know at that time, DeathCool does NOT do well with O2 in there.
Why these next gen automotive radiator systems now have a pressurized overflow bottle. Some OEMs even removed the radiator cap to keep folks from opening up the coolant system to air (O2)
I've switched my Suburban's 7.4L to American Green around 1998 or so
I do NOT recommend anyone with later vehicles to do so, nor mix with American Green and/or between OATs and HOATs. Especially those with closed, pressurized over flow bottles. The translucent over flow bottle is the way to check coolant level and condition
