Dometic Compressor Fridge Issue

No experience with this model, but generally they are 2 systems how fridge/freezers work.
1. they have separate fins with separate thermostats (even some might not be visible)
2. freezer part has fins and a blower blows cold air to refrigerator part, what has adjustable flap.
So check what system you have and try to find applicable adjuster.
-13F is pretty good freezing.

Interesting in that I had exactly the opposite problem: it would turn of with the refrigerator good and cold but the freezer wasn't. Solved with foam insulation between the sections.
Don't remember that mine had a fan -- just convection. But I guess it could be that a circulating fan has failed.
Yes, the thermostat is (or was) in the refrigerator section, at the back just below the freezer -- part of the adjustment dial.

Dometic CR1110 is a small one door fridge --- 3.8 cu ft
Freezer compartment is enclosed inside food compartment

12VDC Compressor cools the entire fridge provided the coil is CLEAN and the FAN is running
Compressor running continuously suggests dirty coil and fan not operating

Coil/Fan accessed from rear

Thank you for the suggestions. Please keep them coming. If it would help, the fridge is a Dometic CRX 110. I don't believe there is a fan that sends cold air to the fridge area via a duct system. The unit is fairly well sealed with the only access being to the compressor, fan and related components at the top rear of the unit. I've made sure the fan/condenser area is clean. I'm guessing the cold/heat transfer to the fridge box occurs through radiation from the evaporator. I can't figure out where the evaporator is but once again guessing the majority of it surrounds the freezer box with a portion dropping down behind the plastic cabinet in the fridge. Could there be some type of blockage in the evaporator that prevents the refrigerant to access the fridge area? Id so, is there a remedy? Thanks

I believe the fan Old-biscuit is referring to is the fan on the coils in the rear outside of the unit. The fan removes the heat from the oustide coil. If the outside coil is not being cooled sufficiently, the unit can't provide enough cooling to design specs. The result is the freezer uses up all of the cold and the refrigerator stays warmer than normal.

I have a 2004 Northstar Iglo that came with a compressor refrigerator. Hopefully Northstar learned since then. I had two issues which soon resulted in a burned out compressor. First the wiring was insufficient. From what I could tell the wiring run was fairly long but the wiring was only 12 gauge. Next the ventilation was way, way under specs. There was an inch or so of space under the refrigerator for incoming air. That was minimal. For exhaust they had a single 3" diameter hole and that was at the side of the cabinet midway up the wall. The refrigerator was also a 7 cu ft monster with the large Danfoss compressor. When it did run it would pull about 80 AH/day even at moderate temps.

I ran 6 gauge wiring. 8 gauge might have been OK but at that point the few extra dollars made no difference and helped with minimal voltage drop. Second I put in some serious ventilation. At the bottom I had about a 4 x 20" opening. I put in even more above the unit toward the ceiling. I replaced the dying 7 footer with a 3.8 cu ft Nova Kool. I would definitely recommend Nova Kool. They have been in business for years making reliable units with quality parts.

Trying to fix or find someone to fix your old unit is not likely to work out well. I would just start with a Nova Kool after you make sure the wiring and ventilation are up to specs.

Kohidad, since my freezer gets to -13 degrees (which I think is well below what it should be)do you think it would still be a problem with the fan and outside coils? Everything looks clean (I keep the coils clear with compressed air) and warm air is being moved by the fan when the compressor is on. It seems the ability to cool gets stopped somewhere between the freezer and fridge.

Jim, Thank you for your recommendation of Nova Kool. If I can't figure out a fix for this unit, the next one will NOT be a Dometic! Northstar now has a lower and upper external vent similar to what is required for an absorption fridge. There isn't a lot of extra space on the sides of the fridge within the cabinet. Certainly not to the specs shown in the install manual. I believe these units can be mounted without any external venting (on a boat for example) if there is sufficient airflow on all sides. I'm guessing the upper and lower external vents on my unit probably allow enough airflow.

Thanks again for everyone's thoughts and suggestions. I really like many aspects of the compressor fridges, but service and knowledge about them has been challenging.

jsc253 wrote:
Thank you for the suggestions. Please keep them coming. If it would help, the fridge is a Dometic CRX 110.

The picture indicate that you don't have separate freezer compartment, so how did you take your measurements?
Empty fridge test is not much of the test.
Put come water bottles in both compartments.
Also page 6 in manual shows minimum clearances.

I don’t know the specifics of this model but it sounds like you have two expansion valves and the one for the frig section is kaput.

Kohidad, since my freezer gets to -13 degrees (which I think is well below what it should be)do you think it would still be a problem with the fan and outside coils? Everything looks clean (I keep the coils clear with compressed air) and warm air is being moved by the fan when the compressor is on. It seems the ability to cool gets stopped somewhere between the freezer and fridge.

Clean coils and the fan moving air seems to be the outside common issues are okay. By chance has the ventilation for the air to/from the compressor area been blocked by something?

The coils are a single loop so if the freezer is getting cold, the freon is still getting to the fridge compartment. Otherwise nothing would work if there is a blockage not to mention it would be very unusual.

How are you checking the temperature?

Have you ever checked the temps before? Are you checking them in the same way? If not this is something you may not have noticed.