Forum Discussion

Huntindog's avatar
Huntindog
Explorer
Nov 07, 2016

Door switch

I have a door going into a bunkhouse that is not visible from where the slide control switches are.
On my first day of ownership, I neglected to close that door (it opens IN to the bunkhouse) Naturally that wasn't good. Since I really did not need that door, I simply removed it to prevent a future mishap.

Now I would like that door in place. So I am going to install a switch in the door jamb that will only allow power to the slide when the door is closed.
I can easily fish wires from the slide switch to the door jamb. I will use a relay so those wires won't carry much current.

Where I am a little lost is just what kind of switch would work best for this situation.

Has anyone done what I am about to? What did you use?

TIA
  • hohenwald48's avatar
    hohenwald48
    Explorer
    Nov 29, 2016
    hohenwald48 wrote:
    2112 wrote:
    Huntindog wrote:
    *snip* All this is about a 12' run from where I gotta fish the wires to the slide control switch, which has 30 amps going thru it. The high amp draw is a primary reason I want to go in the relay direction. *snip*
    Are you referring to the rocker switch you press up/down to move the slide in/out? This is typically a low current switch, < 0.5A, wired to a control module that handles the high current.

    A relay wouldn't be necessary if the proper normally open, momentary closed door jamb switch is wired in series with this rocker switch.


    Not all slides are wired that way. My operating (rocker) switch carries full load of the slide motor and a separate relay would be the way I would accomplish the OPs objective. Running a couple of 10 gauge wires to a door switch could be a real pain.
  • hohenwald48's avatar
    hohenwald48
    Explorer
    Nov 29, 2016
    2112 wrote:
    Huntindog wrote:
    *snip* All this is about a 12' run from where I gotta fish the wires to the slide control switch, which has 30 amps going thru it. The high amp draw is a primary reason I want to go in the relay direction. *snip*
    Are you referring to the rocker switch you press up/down to move the slide in/out? This is typically a low current switch, < 0.5A, wired to a control module that handles the high current.

    A relay wouldn't be necessary if the proper normally open, momentary closed door jamb switch is wired in series with this rocker switch.


    Not all slides are wired that way. My operating switch carries full load of the slide motor and a separate relay would be the way I would accomplish the OPs objective. Running a couple of 10 gauge wires to a door switch could be a real pain.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Nov 28, 2016
    All of the parts arrived, and I finished this project today. It works exactly as I wanted it to.

    It was a fun project that cost about $5 and will have lasting benefits. Might even help when I sell it someday.

    I want to thank everyone that contributed to help me figure it out.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Nov 11, 2016
    Curiosity got the best of me. I pulled the switch. All wires going to it are heavy gauge. Probably 10 or 12.
    I will be needing that relay.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Nov 10, 2016
    2112 wrote:
    Huntindog wrote:
    *snip* All this is about a 12' run from where I gotta fish the wires to the slide control switch, which has 30 amps going thru it. The high amp draw is a primary reason I want to go in the relay direction. *snip*
    Are you referring to the rocker switch you press up/down to move the slide in/out? This is typically a low current switch, < 0.5A, wired to a control module that handles the high current.

    A relay wouldn't be necessary if the proper normally open, momentary closed door jamb switch is wired in series with this rocker switch.


    To tell the truth I haven't looked at the back of the switch yet. But from the way switches are located right next to the fuse box, a relay isn't likely, and the switches appear pretty stout. I will know when I dig into it. At any rate, the relay was cheap, and I will have it on hand if needed. If not I am sure it will come in handy on another project
  • 2112's avatar
    2112
    Explorer II
    Nov 10, 2016
    Huntindog wrote:
    *snip* All this is about a 12' run from where I gotta fish the wires to the slide control switch, which has 30 amps going thru it. The high amp draw is a primary reason I want to go in the relay direction. *snip*
    Are you referring to the rocker switch you press up/down to move the slide in/out? This is typically a low current switch, < 0.5A, wired to a control module that handles the high current.

    A relay wouldn't be necessary if the proper normally open, momentary closed door jamb switch is wired in series with this rocker switch.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Nov 10, 2016
    The switch is gonna work out pretty slick. It consists of a round plastic housing with a magnet inside that will push in flush into a round drilled hole on the hinge side edge of the door. And a matching wired switch that will push into the door jamb. The brown color will match pretty well with the color of the door, and look factory. It is only rated for 1/2 amp, but that will work fine to trigger the relay. All this is about a 12' run from where I gotta fish the wires to the slide control switch, which has 30 amps going thru it. The high amp draw is a primary reason I want to go in the relay direction. Keeping high amp draw runs short is most always a good thing when possible in my experience.

    Thanks to every one for setting me in the right direction for finding this solution.
  • TundraTower's avatar
    TundraTower
    Explorer
    Nov 10, 2016
    Glad you found a fix.

    For future reference, I did something similar on our brick/mortar house to turn the light on in the kitchen pantry when the door is open. I just used a momentary push switch --- power is off when the switch is pushed (door closed) and on when the door is open.

    That would have worked for your application as well, and could have been put in series. I suspect you were able to hide yours better than I hid mine.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Nov 08, 2016
    Parts are ordered. got a magnetic push in switch and a relay on Ebay for a little over $5.
    I definantly want the relay system as It will allow me to use smaller wires to the switch.
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Nov 07, 2016
    The trick about all this is having a switch that will either carry the larger current of the slide motor as the original does or adding the relay and the micro switch that operates on less current. The latter will probably be easier to do as parts are available from a number of vendors. Corvettekent links to a SPDT switch that looks like it would work well in this application.

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