Forum Discussion

Raife's avatar
Raife
Explorer
Aug 05, 2020

Dry vs Gross weight

First some context:
Good afternoon. I have read many posts regarding towing and am looking for some additional help. Sorry for the dissertation…

First – context:
Vehicle and weights:
- 2015 Durango, Citadel, V8 Hemi, factory installed tow package, technology group (not sure this matters)
- Curb Weight – 5770 pounds (measured on certified scales, full tank, minus my weight)
- Family weight – 610 pounds (me, wife, 3 kids, and dog)
“Remaining“ cargo weight – GVWR of 7,100 minus 5770 curb weight minus 610 family equals 720 pounds (which I imagine most will be taken up by tongue weight)

If I take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 13,100 pounds and subtract out the curb weight of the Durango (5770lbs), the family weight (610lbs), and the tongue weight (max 720lbs for calculation sake), I end up at 6,000 remaining pounds for the trailer.

So I started down the path of a Jayco 264BH, but received a fair amount of feedback that the tongue to tail length of 29' was too much for the Durango wheelbase.

So I am now looking at a tongue to tail in the 25' range (sail range of 22').

However, I am finding a lot of trailers that have dry weights in the low to mid 4Klbs, but then CCC weights of 2-3Klbs - which puts me over the 6,000lbs limit I calculated.

So - given I will not be traveling with full tanks (only what is potentially used during travel from campsite to campsite), how important is the trailer GVW (UVW + CCC) vs a different number (say UVW + 1,500lbs of our stuff in the trailer, even if the CCC is 2,500lbs)

Regardless of what I get, I will get getting a WDH with 4-point or dual-cam sway control.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!
  • Lwiddis's avatar
    Lwiddis
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    “So - given I will not be traveling with full tanks (only what is potentially used during travel from campsite to campsite”

    You are assuming the campground water is working when you arrive. What if it isn’t? You are willing to pass up the beautiful dry campsite you spotted from the road? No water in your tanks. Lots of those CGs out West. Running at or close to max for your tow vehicle and/or the trailer isn’t fun.

    What if you don’t like the taste or smell of the campground water? Tuff, you must fill up.
  • TomG2's avatar
    TomG2
    Explorer
    Aug 05, 2020
    Part of the equation is up to you. You do not have to load to maximum weight. Water, fuel, extra batteries, etc. all add pounds. Little things add up. Mot of us take more "Stuff" than we really need.
  • jdc1's avatar
    jdc1
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    You might be looking at a 4,500 pound trailer for the best results.
  • kellem's avatar
    kellem
    Explorer
    Aug 05, 2020
    I like to keep it simple.

    Look at the trailers GVWR and figure in 12- 15 % of that as tounge weight and subtract that from from payload.

    Have a tow vehicle that can pull the GVWR of trailer and payload that can absorb the tounge weight and cargo.

    I've owned 4 trailers and each weighed much closer to the trailers GVWR vs the UVW or dry weight.
  • valhalla360's avatar
    valhalla360
    Navigator
    Aug 05, 2020
    If you really travel below the GVWR of the trailer, it's legitimate to use the real number...but reality is you have to be constantly on guard against extra weight making it into the trailer and most people wind up pretty much at the GVWR.

    Lots of people say something like what you say and then in a couple years, they tell stories about how horrible the towing is...because they weren't hyper vigilant about extra weight finding it's way into the trailer.
  • dodge_guy's avatar
    dodge_guy
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    With 3 kids and a dog add 1500lbs to the dry weight. You can safely tow a 28ft TT with a properly setup WD hitch! The Durango is low and has a decent wheelbase. There is no length limitation in the owners manual or anywhere for that matter other than the state or national 65ft total limit!

    I would start looking at a bit longer trailers. And as long as the loaded for travel weight is at or under the weight rating you stated it doesn’t matter if it has a higher GWR. My old TT had a 4100lb CCC. I was always 2000lbs less than the GWR.
  • GrandpaKip's avatar
    GrandpaKip
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    kellem wrote:
    I like to keep it simple.

    Look at the trailers GVWR and figure in 12- 15 % of that as tounge weight and subtract that from from payload.

    Have a tow vehicle that can pull the GVWR of trailer and payload that can absorb the tounge weight and cargo.

    I've owned 4 trailers and each weighed much closer to the trailers GVWR vs the UVW or dry weight.

    This.
  • Bobbo's avatar
    Bobbo
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    GrandpaKip wrote:
    kellem wrote:
    I like to keep it simple.

    Look at the trailers GVWR and figure in 12- 15 % of that as tounge weight and subtract that from from payload.

    Have a tow vehicle that can pull the GVWR of trailer and payload that can absorb the tounge weight and cargo.

    I've owned 4 trailers and each weighed much closer to the trailers GVWR vs the UVW or dry weight.

    This.

    Can't agree with this more!
  • dodge_guy's avatar
    dodge_guy
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    Bobbo wrote:
    GrandpaKip wrote:
    kellem wrote:
    I like to keep it simple.

    Look at the trailers GVWR and figure in 12- 15 % of that as tounge weight and subtract that from from payload.

    Have a tow vehicle that can pull the GVWR of trailer and payload that can absorb the tounge weight and cargo.

    I've owned 4 trailers and each weighed much closer to the trailers GVWR vs the UVW or dry weight.

    This.

    Can't agree with this more!


    I completely disagree!

    There would be a lot of overlooked Trailers that will work safely going by that thinking! Why use the trailers GVWR when you will never use all of it. Like I said my trailer had a 4klb CCC it was not a toy hauler, it just had a larger frame and axles. I only used 2klbs of its 4K lb CCC. No reason to use the trailers full GVWR unless it is has a very low CCC.
  • Terryallan's avatar
    Terryallan
    Explorer II
    Aug 05, 2020
    dodge guy wrote:
    Bobbo wrote:
    GrandpaKip wrote:
    kellem wrote:
    I like to keep it simple.

    Look at the trailers GVWR and figure in 12- 15 % of that as tounge weight and subtract that from from payload.

    Have a tow vehicle that can pull the GVWR of trailer and payload that can absorb the tounge weight and cargo.

    I've owned 4 trailers and each weighed much closer to the trailers GVWR vs the UVW or dry weight.

    This.

    Can't agree with this more!


    I completely disagree!

    There would be a lot of overlooked Trailers that will work safely going by that thinking! Why use the trailers GVWR when you will never use all of it. Like I said my trailer had a 4klb CCC it was not a toy hauler, it just had a larger frame and axles. I only used 2klbs of its 4K lb CCC. No reason to use the trailers full GVWR unless it is has a very low CCC.


    Agree. My TT will NEVER use all of the CC. At best it will see half of it. My TT has a 2400lb carrying capacity. After 8 years of use. I still have more than 1400lb left over. I'm not even using half of it.

    BTW. My TT gets lighter every year. We don't use something. It comes out. No use dragging around stuff you don't use.

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