Duramax Turbo

[MNRon]

I have a 2013 Duramax with 130k miles. We’re in the middle of a 6k mile trip pulling 15.5klb 5er and I’ve started to get a turbocharger engine code (P2599).

This first happened 3000 miles ago when I went to pass someone, caused the engine to go into limp mode at 30mph. After 20miles the nearest garage cleared the code and had normal operation. 50miles later GM dealer said might need a new turbo ($4k) or might be fine.

After driving fine for 2500miles (traveling Rockies) it threw the same code on an uphill grade, again going into limp mode this time 20mpg. I cleared code myself and took it to Chevy dealer 100miles away. Same story, this time they said if replacing turbo they would recommend some other things as well ($6k). I drove on.

Yesterday after another few hundred miles it threw the P2599 code but didn’t go into limp mode. After a couple engine starts the idiot light has turned itself off. Heading to Tetons tomorrow, still have 2k miles and a month to go on this trip.

How worried should I be? Assuming it continues to behave like this do I need to invest $4-6k and a week+ in the shop? On the road? When I get home? Or do I continue to just clear code if/when happens again and keep driving?

Thanks for your opinions, and better yet similar experiences.
Ron

[S_Davis]

Jarlaxle wrote:

S Davis wrote:
Sounds to me like it might be a.problem with the ECM, another turbo after only 8000 miles is to me unlikely.

Unless it was a bad rebuild...

I didn’t catch that it was a rebuilt turbo, I know on my 2013 2500HD I had several turbo codes but never did anything about it because It never went into limp mode and I would reset the code. I was more worried about the CP4 injection pump because I got some fuel related codes too.

[MNRon]

Jarlaxel- Not interested in a gasser to pull around 16,000lbs 🙂

[Jarlaxle]

S Davis wrote:
Sounds to me like it might be a.problem with the ECM, another turbo after only 8000 miles is to me unlikely.

Unless it was a bad rebuild...

[Jarlaxle]

MNRon wrote:
OP here after a couple years on this thread. Short summary is that my Duramax started throwing P2599 codes about 125k mile (hence the thread). Since then I ended up replacing the turbo at 152k miles (last Feb).

Now at 160k miles I’m back to the same problem. Pulling heavy this morning I went into limp mode twice in the Rockies. Both times I cleared the codes and kept going. Any ideas what service I should look at next?

Used diesel truck prices are crazy...trade it in for something with gas power.

[Jarlaxle]

Vanished wrote:

MNRon wrote:
Vanished, I just bought a cheap code reader years ago. Not sure I’d recommend the one I have. If I didn’t have one I’d just searc on Amazon, or go into a local Autozone or some such.

Thanks - I looked around and the selection was overwhelming. All i wanted to do was read & clear codes on our Duramax until I get the turbo rebuilt - but they sure seem to vary in price and features.

Pretty sure you don't even need a reader-you can use a <$10 phone app and adapter cable to clear codes.

[MNRon]

S Davis wrote:
Sounds to me like it might be a.problem with the ECM, another turbo after only 8000 miles is to me unlikely.

Agree it’s very unlikely the turbo (think that $3500 was wasted 😞 ). Other than ECM is there anything else that might be suggested? Saw one comment on another site about maybe MAF sensor? Anything else? I’m going to have to spend more $, I want to nail it this time!

[S_Davis]

Sounds to me like it might be a.problem with the ECM, another turbo after only 8000 miles is to me unlikely.

[MNRon]

OP here after a couple years on this thread. Short summary is that my Duramax started throwing P2599 codes about 125k mile (hence the thread). Since then I ended up replacing the turbo at 152k miles (last Feb).

Now at 160k miles I’m back to the same problem. Pulling heavy this morning I went into limp mode twice in the Rockies. Both times I cleared the codes and kept going. Any ideas what service I should look at next?

[Grit_dog]

^ Great truck there!
Had a 02 back in the day, that with just a tune would run with any of the newer trucks or better, IMO.
Newer ones may have more tech and be heavier duty, but for most purposes, a LLY or LBZ Dmax is still one of the best rigs out there.

[JaneSiver]

Hey,
2006 GMC 2500HD Duramax LLY SLT Edition 4x4. 105,872 miles when I drove her home. The previous owner took care of this truck like you wouldn't believe, I have ever recorded down to the T. Oil changes, fuel filters, brakes, all changed like clockwork. He towed with it and had the transmission completely serviced before I bought it on www.boodmo.com/ I am a very happy man!

[Grit_dog]

ksss wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
^ Depends if it's the vanes physically sticking or the actuator going south.

They tested the actuator and they tell me it is good. The motor is an LBZ but still oil actuated turbo.

The variable vane actuator is oil actuated. The turbo is oil cooled, but oil does not do anything for the variable vanes in the turbo.
It could be the vane position sensor as well.
Replacing the turbo is not a horrible backyard job. I'd expect 4-6 hours from a shop. And it could just need taken apart and cleaned if the bearings are good and the compressor wheel isn't damaged.
Just food for thought.
$3800 for a turbo replacement sounds like the Chevy dealer trying to fund a company wide bbq on your turbo.
New OE turbo is $1195 including actuator shipped to your door on amazon. Plus gaskets and bolts.

[ksss]

Grit dog wrote:
^ Depends if it's the vanes physically sticking or the actuator going south.

They tested the actuator and they tell me it is good. The motor is an LBZ but still oil actuated turbo. Considering upgrading to a better turbo, but power is not an issue, it has a light 35 hp tune and it will spin the duals from a dead stop with a loaded trailer at will. I just wish it had the brakes and suspension that the new ones do, even the 2011 upgrade, to say nothing of the 2020. When I found out this news we (commercial sales guy and I) built a WT 3500 HD CC DRW 2020 verison and it has a 40 Gross combined capacity as built. Price is mid50K. Wasn't going to upgrade but maybe I will replace this truck. That is almost twice the capacity of the 06 DRW.

[Grit_dog]

^ The LML vgt actuator is oil operated so it's possible that could work if the plunger is sticking.

[ACZL]

ksss wrote:
Well my VVT is sticking as well. Looking at options. $3800 from the dealer to RR. The diesel performance shops are considerably less even for a better turbo. Cleaning it sounds like it isn't a long term fix.

I would still give Hot Shot Secret Stiction Eliminator a try. If it doesn't work, can get a refund.

[Grit_dog]

^ Depends if it's the vanes physically sticking or the actuator going south.