Easy way to drain water heater?

2012Coleman wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

2012Coleman wrote:

Yardvarkers wrote:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

Thanks for this link!

There you go....a 'solution' for a problem that doesn't exist and creates a new problem.

An anode rod for an Atwood water heater......:S

An then add an small pet cock drain so that the rod doesn't get pulled and tank properly flushed out.
It's difficult enough to get debris flushed out thru the OEM 1/2" drain hole but now you have a small 3/8-1/4" drain hole :H

Just because items are for sell in aftermarket doesn't mean they are needed, useful or better.

NO anode rods for Atwood.
Anode rods for Suburban.
Remove drain plugs and drain/flush water heater tank at least once a year.
and if you really need to buy some do-dad get a flushing wand to clean out the sediment/debris in tank thru the drain hole

Man - I feel like I've been spanked!

No 'spanking' intended.....just informed :B

Old-Biscuit wrote:

2012Coleman wrote:

Yardvarkers wrote:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

Thanks for this link!

There you go....a 'solution' for a problem that doesn't exist and creates a new problem.

An anode rod for an Atwood water heater......:S

An then add an small pet cock drain so that the rod doesn't get pulled and tank properly flushed out.
It's difficult enough to get debris flushed out thru the OEM 1/2" drain hole but now you have a small 3/8-1/4" drain hole :H

Just because items are for sell in aftermarket doesn't mean they are needed, useful or better.

NO anode rods for Atwood.
Anode rods for Suburban.
Remove drain plugs and drain/flush water heater tank at least once a year.
and if you really need to buy some do-dad get a flushing wand to clean out the sediment/debris in tank thru the drain hole

Man - I feel like I've been spanked!

coolbreeze01 wrote:
Pulling the anode once a year for winter storage and cleaning is often enough imo. As mentioned 1 1/8" socket, extension, and 1/2" drive ratchet makes it easy.

Proper size is (1-1/16) 6 point. Youroo!!;)

Thanks again for all the tips. I will leave water tank full unless it will be stored for a month or so in which case I will put the rod back in after draining (That's what I do now). I am happy to know that most of you have no problems with keeping water in the tank.

Yardvarkers wrote:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

X2

After experimenting for a few years, I prefer to leave the water heater full of water unless I'm expecting the weather to freeze. Leaving the tank empty doesn't dry out the interior even if you leave the vents open, it leaves a nice moist environment with a lot of surface area for scuzz to grow on the walls of the tank, and leaving it with the vent and drain plugs open lets dust, spiders, and pollens into the tank. Leaving it full of city water leaves a lot less surface area and available air for crud to grow on, and since it is pretty much sterilized when you used it last from being heated to a pretty high temperature, not much will grow in there. A simple flush before use after storing it full of water for more that 3 or 4 weeks works really well for me.

I keep a ratchet wrench, 18 inch long extension, and the right socket in a five gallon bucket in my rig. Makes life easy to pop the cork and replace the anode rod (here in this part of Texas, the rod is 99% intact after almost two years, but gets calcium on it, which means it needs pulled out or else the lime will build up on it so much that it can't be pulled out.)

Just remember to depressurize the water system first for safety reasons (disconnect from city water, turn off water pump, run a faucet until water stops coming out.)

Dutchman Sport..that's works. Suburban has a 3/4" drain hole but Atwood has 1/2" drain hole and standard garden hose is tough to get thru opening.

Besides..the wand only costs around $5

Old-Biscuit wrote:

2012Coleman wrote:

Yardvarkers wrote:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

Thanks for this link!

There you go....a 'solution' for a problem that doesn't exist and creates a new problem.

An anode rod for an Atwood water heater......:S

An then add an small pet cock drain so that the rod doesn't get pulled and tank properly flushed out.
It's difficult enough to get debris flushed out thru the OEM 1/2" drain hole but now you have a small 3/8-1/4" drain hole :H

Just because items are for sell in aftermarket doesn't mean they are needed, useful or better.

NO anode rods for Atwood.
Anode rods for Suburban.
Remove drain plugs and drain/flush water heater tank at least once a year.
and if you really need to buy some do-dad get a flushing wand to clean out the sediment/debris in tank thru the drain hole

I took an old hose from the back of a washing machine (hot or cold), cut off one end and left the other. I then screw the good end to a garden hose and put the cut rubber end in the anode rode hole and turn the water on and let it fly! You do have to move it in and out so it will actually flush the lime build-up out the hole. But if you have a hose laying around the house, why not use it and save a few bucks!

I drain mine after every trip, usually on the way home. And it stays empty until we go out for our next trip, and it gets filled at the campground.

The solution to your problem is to invest in a simple ratchet socket wrench with the right size socket for the anode rode and an extension between the socket and wrench. That's how I do it. I bought one socket that's the same size as the anode and I have one dedicated wrench with a 4 inch extension that I use ONLY for the water heater and it never leaves the camper.

After draining, I always put the rod back in to keep the threads from rusting up on both the rod and the tank.

If you take the time to get a socket wrench with the right socket, it won't be any problem at all.