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Electric jacks manual crank

mattyj
Explorer
Explorer
My 20 year old Atwood electric jacks finally died, I have tried numerous replacement of parts to try to get them to work again, but no good. I’m using a drill and an attachment to crank up It takes about an hour real PIA my question is, is there any kind of switch on the jack that has to be activated in order to crank down jacks manually, if so, I hope I did not damage anything. If anybody can help, please reply thanks.
2006 Ford F 350, 6.0 PSD 8 Foot Bed 4x4 with Torklift Tie downs ,Stable Loads ,rear Helwig Swaybar,airlifts 5000 , Method 305 HD rims . 2019 Adventurer 89 RBS, slideout, Generator
16 REPLIES 16

WarrenS65
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had a Lance with Atwood jacks for 20 years. The only problems I ever had were with the wireless controllers. These are reliable equipment.
First off, the Atwood manual says to unplug the jack when you will manually (or with a drill) raise or lower it. You've obviously got that figured out.

More importantly, it seems like all four jacks failing at the same time is not a problem with the jacks, but with the controller. You can test the jacks by using jumper wires from the battery to the plug coming out of the jack. If that makes it move, the jack is ok.
Here's how I'd troubleshoot my jacks.
  • Start at the beginning. Check the power going to the jack controller.

  • The jack controller should have fuses and/or circuit breakers. Check all those.
  • the handheld part (wired or wireless) on newer controllers need to be paired and can lose their pairing. Try re-pairing the handheld controller

  • Check the power output at each of the jacks while they're supposed to be working
  • Check the continuity of the wires between the controller and and each jack.


If none of that works, like others have said, you can replace the Atwood parts with Reico-Titan. They sell a complete replacement set, or various pieces. If the jacks worked by directly jumping each of them from a battery, those aren't your problem and you can just buy the controller setup.
2022 F450
2023 Host Everest
2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R
1987 Honda TRX250R
2002 Honda 400EX
2023 Yamaha Raptor 700SE
2018 Look 24' enclosed trailer

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
mattyj wrote:
mkirsch wrote:
Well yeah, the motor is acting as a generator and you're trying to power something when they're connected.
does that mean I ruined the jacks by leaving them plugged in during extension and retraction??


You might have charged the camper battery a little bit, LOL.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
If they’re the ones being discussed, the owners manual says it doesn’t hurt anything just harder to turn.
Our TCs had a lever to disengage the jack from the motor for manual cranking.
I don’t think you could hurt anything either way by spinning the motor manually.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mattyj
Explorer
Explorer
mkirsch wrote:
monkey44 wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.


It does make a huge difference, Grit Dog ... personal experience. It sounds like it's turning the jack motors - some kind of friction thru the wires maybe, I don't really know. I do know it is much less taxing on the drill when the wires are disconnected. I just pulled the plug out of the camper for each jack and the spin rate on 18v Mikita drill greatly increased.

2008 Lance 845 ...


Well yeah, the motor is acting as a generator and you're trying to power something when they're connected.
does that mean I ruined the jacks by leaving them plugged in during extension and retraction??
2006 Ford F 350, 6.0 PSD 8 Foot Bed 4x4 with Torklift Tie downs ,Stable Loads ,rear Helwig Swaybar,airlifts 5000 , Method 305 HD rims . 2019 Adventurer 89 RBS, slideout, Generator

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
mkirsch wrote:
monkey44 wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.


It does make a huge difference, Grit Dog ... personal experience. It sounds like it's turning the jack motors - some kind of friction thru the wires maybe, I don't really know. I do know it is much less taxing on the drill when the wires are disconnected. I just pulled the plug out of the camper for each jack and the spin rate on 18v Mikita drill greatly increased.

2008 Lance 845 ...


Well yeah, the motor is acting as a generator and you're trying to power something when they're connected.


Well, I stand corrected. Appears those don't have a disconnect from the motor.
Won't let me paste a snip of the manual, but unplugging the jacks disables the dynamic brake. Says no issue either way but easier to run manually when unplugged.
It's still turning the motor either way though.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Right, mkirsh, exactly what I was thinking, and exactly how it was acting. Thanks.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
monkey44 wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.


It does make a huge difference, Grit Dog ... personal experience. It sounds like it's turning the jack motors - some kind of friction thru the wires maybe, I don't really know. I do know it is much less taxing on the drill when the wires are disconnected. I just pulled the plug out of the camper for each jack and the spin rate on 18v Mikita drill greatly increased.

2008 Lance 845 ...


Well yeah, the motor is acting as a generator and you're trying to power something when they're connected.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Nomad II
if you need to replace it. The Reico Titan is a 99% plug and play replacement. bolt holes are the same , motor speed is the same, capacity is the same. only thing you need to change is the plug receptacle on the camper.
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags

mattyj
Explorer
Explorer
monkey44 wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.


It does make a huge difference, Grit Dog ... personal experience. It sounds like it's turning the jack motors - some kind of friction thru the wires maybe, I don't really know. I do know it is much less taxing on the drill when the wires are disconnected. I just pulled the plug out of the camper for each jack and the spin rate on 18v Mikita drill greatly increased.

2008 Lance 845 ...
I did not notice any difference with drill on jacks plugged or unplugged Thank you all
2006 Ford F 350, 6.0 PSD 8 Foot Bed 4x4 with Torklift Tie downs ,Stable Loads ,rear Helwig Swaybar,airlifts 5000 , Method 305 HD rims . 2019 Adventurer 89 RBS, slideout, Generator

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Grit dog wrote:
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.


It does make a huge difference, Grit Dog ... personal experience. It sounds like it's turning the jack motors - some kind of friction thru the wires maybe, I don't really know. I do know it is much less taxing on the drill when the wires are disconnected. I just pulled the plug out of the camper for each jack and the spin rate on 18v Mikita drill greatly increased.

2008 Lance 845 ...
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I've never used my manual crank, but from what I understand, there is no switch. Maybe your jack is corroded or bent. Try a different one.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

KD4UPL
Explorer
Explorer
The Attwood jacks on my 2003 camper came with cranks; I guess in case the motors failed. I tried using them once just to see what it was like. They worked, both up and down. I didn't change anything or unhook anything to do it. After that experiment I just always used the motors.
All 4 of my jacks still worked fine in 2018 when I sold the camper.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
^I’m pretty sure disconnecting the wires won’t make a bit of difference. Or am I missing something.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
If you cannot get it repaired, try unplugging the feed wire from the camper on each jack. Then use the drill to raise and lower ... if you don't unplug it, you're raising and lowering, AND probably spinning the dead motor as well.

You may also be getting some resistance from the battery ... not sure how or if the battery would affect it. But, when I had a dead battery once, I had to life it with a drill to load it. Once I unplugged, the drill felt and sounded like much less a load on it and it lifted the camper much quicker.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic