F250 CC SB 4x4 6.2-3.73 or 4.30 for 10,700lb travel trailer

[dragr1]

Currently pulling the travel trailer with a '14 Ram 3500 SRW CC LB 4x4 Cummins Manual trans., not happy with the manual trans. bc at 19k miles the clutch is on it's way out (truck is stock). Have a claim with Ram customer care but so far they've been non-existent on even communicating. So looking at trucks

I would prefer the 4.30 gears with the F250 6.2 but they are nearly impossible to come by. Local dealer has 2 identical optioned out F250 CC SB 4x4 6.2 XL trucks with 3.73 gears. Thoughts on towing my 10,700lb 37' long travel trailer? It's a 2013 Jayco 33BHTS. We normally camp in Northern Alabama, Georgia and twice a year in Tennessee or North Carolina mountains. We frequent Cheaha State Park in Alabama several times a year and that's a pretty steep and slow curvy climb to the top- 3 miles at about 30-35mph due to curves and grade.

We've got a trip coming up soon so I'm in a time crunch too on whether or not to put a new clutch in if Ram won't help me on the $$ for a new clutch(probably $2,000 and they claim only covered for 12 months or 12k miles as a wear item) or just trade the truck (Ford dealer is aware of the clutch).

[dragr1]

blofgren wrote:

dragr1 wrote:
Southbend single disc clutch is in, truck drives so much better already.

Now I'm looking into this to help backing the camper:

BD 2wd Low kit

I installed the BD 2 low kit a couple of years ago and it works great. MUCH easier on the clutch while backing the trailer.

What differences have you noticed with your new clutch? My OE clutch is still fine at this point but I know that I too will be dealing with a replacement at some point and am interested in people's experiences with various styles.

The clutch engagement has more feeling rather than just being a lazy noodle like the stock clutch. The engagement seems to be lower in the travel rather than at the top of the travel like stock. Pedal is a little stiffer but at least it feels like a clutch now. The gear shifter moves a lot less now-mine seemed to shake a lot more than it should of in gear. Of course my transmission was a quart low on fluid-thanks Ram-so we ending up adding 2 full quarts to it. I stayed with the stock fluid for now but will probably switch to the Mercedes recommended fluid at some point. I haven't put the break on miles on it yet but just driving around the truck feels stronger. I've long suspected that my clutch was faulty since day one and that some sensor knew that and was cutting power to compensate. So I'm eager to get the break in miles on it and hook up to the camper.

Gear rollover noise isn't that bad and is only noticeable below 1000 rpm.
My stock disc wasn't too bad but it had gotten hot as indicated by the blue hue ring on the stock pressure plate and flyweel.

[blofgren]

dragr1 wrote:
Southbend single disc clutch is in, truck drives so much better already.

Now I'm looking into this to help backing the camper:

BD 2wd Low kit

I installed the BD 2 low kit a couple of years ago and it works great. MUCH easier on the clutch while backing the trailer.

What differences have you noticed with your new clutch? My OE clutch is still fine at this point but I know that I too will be dealing with a replacement at some point and am interested in people's experiences with various styles.

[rhagfo]

dragr1 wrote:
Southbend single disc clutch is in, truck drives so much better already.

Now I'm looking into this to help backing the camper:

BD 2wd Low kit

X2!
One of those great little gadgets that makes driving a manual so much easier.

[dragr1]

Southbend single disc clutch is in, truck drives so much better already.

Now I'm looking into this to help backing the camper:

BD 2wd Low kit

[4x4ord]

All the years I drove my old 6.5 turbo diesel I never used the clutch other than to get moving so it didn't have any trouble out lasting the crummy engine....every 100,000 miles. Back then I enjoyed shifting. Now that the automatics are so good I would have a hard time going back to a hand shaker......I'd also have a hard time going back to a gasser.

[memtb]

I also, did my own Dual Disk.... the hardest part was “stabbing” the tranny. Shouldn’t be a problem for a decent mechanic.

[rhagfo]

dragr1 wrote:
Talked to southbend again, looks like the single disc organic might be the way to go, the only shop in town that I would trust to install has never installed a dual disc, and after 2 conversations with southbend it sounds like the single disc is plenty for me anyway

Well if the mechanics are worth their salt then installing a DD clutch is no big deal. Just and additional driven plate and a floater plate. I did my own with great results.
You will never have to worry about slipping with a DD.

[memtb]

dragr1 wrote:
Southbend G56-OK-HD on order

Ya done good! I think you will be pleased. Good Luck

[dragr1]

Southbend G56-OK-HD on order

[blt2ski]

My 96 K3500 with an NV4500 had an original dual mass flywheel, it was replaced with a single at 90K miles. then kept the same at 180K miles. Did not notice the difference between the two. I was towing upwards of 12K lbs of trailer. Dual mass setup was rated to 12500 gcwr, when the single was put in after 97 or 98 OEM, the gcwr went equal with the auto at 14500. To make a long story short, I was hardly ever towing below either of those two numbers! Usually was over 12K minimum, upwards of 22K lbs a few times.
I doubt the single will cause you issues.

Marty

[dragr1]

Grit dog wrote:

dragr1 wrote:
Talked to southbend again, looks like the single disc organic might be the way to go, the only shop in town that I would trust to install has never installed a dual disc, and after 2 conversations with southbend it sounds like the single disc is plenty for me anyway

Yes, it will serve you well. I'd still consider an OFE or FE over an O clutch. It will be grabbier, but you'll get longer life out of it for minimal cost increase. You get used to the on/off nature of high perf clutch IMO and after that anything else feels mushy to me.

Plus, if the trailer backing thing is holding you back (you get used to that too, jsut gotta be good at feathering the pedal and you dont want to make a habit of it anyway) your truck can have 2wd low range for a couple hundred for a 2low kit.

I'm used to grabby clutches from my drag racing days but was concerned about that for backing the camper.

Got a link for the 2low conversion?

[Grit_dog]

dragr1 wrote:
Talked to southbend again, looks like the single disc organic might be the way to go, the only shop in town that I would trust to install has never installed a dual disc, and after 2 conversations with southbend it sounds like the single disc is plenty for me anyway

Yes, it will serve you well. I'd still consider an OFE or FE over an O clutch. It will be grabbier, but you'll get longer life out of it for minimal cost increase. You get used to the on/off nature of high perf clutch IMO and after that anything else feels mushy to me.

Plus, if the trailer backing thing is holding you back (you get used to that too, jsut gotta be good at feathering the pedal and you dont want to make a habit of it anyway) your truck can have 2wd low range for a couple hundred for a 2low kit.

[dragr1]

Talked to southbend again, looks like the single disc organic might be the way to go, the only shop in town that I would trust to install has never installed a dual disc, and after 2 conversations with southbend it sounds like the single disc is plenty for me anyway

[Grit_dog]

memtb wrote:
dragr1, I went with the dual, quiet disc Valair. The clutch itself is quiet, but... the tranny (aluminum case) amplifies the diesel harmonics. The noise is quite noticeable when under heavy load at rpms under 1500. I changed to a different lube ( Mobil Delvac Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50 , the American version of what Mercedes uses in Europe in this transmission in medium truck service). This quietened the tranny some, but is a little stiffer to shift when cold. We use the truck in sub-zero temps, and really is a non-issue. Also, recommended on the Dodge Forums...add 1 additional quart (must be done thru top when shifter is removed for clutch change) as this will also help quiet the tranny. You must fill thru the top, as tranny,side fill port will not allow the extra quart.

The clutch kit will also come with a new, larger clutch master cylinder, which will reduce the effort to push-in the clutch.

I hope that this helped with your decision. You may also go to Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum.... they have more answers than you will have questions. If you want to learn “anything” about a Dodge Cummins...it’s there!

Good Luck in whatever you decide to do!

Either brand will serve the oP well.
What memtb said is correct. Using synchromesh type trans fluid helps with the Gear rollover noise a bit. On the extra quart thing, you can get an extra quart in the fill hole, barely if you drive the truck up on ramps on one side. A bit easier than going through the top.

[Grit_dog]

I see SB groups clutches by stage now.
I'd say, yes minimum stage 2 OFE clutch, but I'd really go with a 3250 street dual disk.
Pedal pressure will be a little less with the 3250 DD compared to OFE single disk. Or whatever Valairs equivalent is. I'm pretty sold on SB because of the extraordinary customer service I got without asking for it.
In short, I (my wife mostly, lol) wore out an OFE clutch in about 80-90kmi. When I called them inquiring about a dual disk using my existing flywheel ( not compatible), SB offered to sell me a heavy duty version of their single disk (not specifically offered by them). I ended up getting a new heavy ceramic, 3 finger roller pressure plate for $500 shipped to AK. Basically because Ryan at SB thought my previous clutch should have lasted longer.....
Makes it hard for me not to promote SB.