Factory Payload Selector vs Real capacity

that's why it says "maximum" payload. The most it could be if you order the truck that way. If you want to add stuff then your payload won't be maximum.

FWIW here are a few examples from my experience.

2012 F150HD XLT 4x4, 8200GVWR, book max is 2320 payload, sticker is 2171 lb (verified at the scale with full tank). I have the running boards and tailgate step as well as a few other small upgrades like power seat and backup cam to account for the 149lb difference. No surprises here.

Truck I'm test driving now:
2013 F250 6.2 crew 156" 4x4, 10,000GVWR, book max 3250 for 4x4 crew 156", sticker is 2820 lb. It has running boards, power seat, backup cam, tailgate step and 18" wheel upgrade with 275/70/18 tires. Otherwise it's a basic XLT so I don't know where the 430 lb went.

Real world payload........weigh your truck and subtract from GVWR

Brochures/Pamphlets/mfg. towing guides etc. ALL marketing ploys using numbers that come about by voodoo. (stripped down models under ideal test conditions that never occur in the real world)

When deciding on what truck to buy, manufacturers have payload/towing specs on their web sites. These payload numbers are for a stripped down model and are the highest payload available for a bare bones truck.

This statement is not correct for all trucks.
Using GM's online ordering guide weights calculator gives the trucks payload for all the options on the truck as shipped and received at the dealer.
Same with Dodges body builders website where they give payloads for a ST or a SLT or a Laramie or the tradesman or the Big Horn or the Lone Star/etc configuration.

The Ford website Fleet service specs doesn't have a payload for the different optioned trucks so don't assume other truck makers websites are like the Fords Fleet service specs. Ford does have a options weights spec sheets. Some have tried to use it but run into issues with the trucks base weights and what packages were folded in as std equipment.

The days of stripper models are long gone. Many options of yesteryear are folded in as base equipment today.

Best method IMO for any trucks actual payload is still weigh the trucks front and rear axle separately when the truck is loaded and before the trailer is hooked. That way the operator can see if he's going over a real world axle/tire load rating.

".....The days of stripper models are long gone. Many options of yesteryear are folded in as base equipment today....."

But, IMHO, think the OEMs still 'have to' use that stripper model
as the basis for all of their weight ratings...even though it is NOT
orderable

How else can they keep the weight matrix of options down to a small number...not
everyone orders 4x4, full time, alloys, oversized wheels/tires, etc

Agree best is go out and weigh your setup, axle by axle...that is the only way
to know where 'your' TV is in reference to it's GVWR/f-r GAWR

The profit margin is higher on the upgraded trucks. That's why it's so hard to find a basic truck.

There does seem to be a bit of hocus pocus when it comes to the tow ratings. The marketing people announce one thing and when the trucks actually roll off the line its a different story. Hoping the new standards will actually help.

Marketing works extremely well on the general buying public...as they are NOT
well educated on the ratings system (some call it a game )

Like so many come here saying XYA has more payload/cargo/etc than 123 badged...

Well maybe so, but I'm of the opinion that XYA managed to strip more off of theirs
than the other guys and STILL have a DOT approved vehicle

Also, betcha before the standardization of the preverbal 150 lb driver, that
some/most used the smallest licensed driver they could...and betcha that person
was a 16 year old weighing in at around 75 lbs... :)

Like 'Silverado' was an option package until marketing found most of their buyers
were asking for the 'Silverado' that they see all around...my 1980 is a C10,
'Big Ten' (HD version back then) with the 'Silverado' option package. Refer to
it as a C10 and no one knows what the heck it is. Ditto Big Ten....but refer to
it as the HD half ton or Silverado and everyone knows it as a GM/Chevy pickup

Tow ratings is a mystery to everyone and betcha even most on their design teams

Like folks really believe theirs can ditto tow the Shuttle... :S

This whole payload/towing number thing reminds me of back in the 50's and 60's and the "Horsepower race". Manufacturers got carried away with their advertising and we suddenly had 400 plus horsepower models that had less than half that actually available. Ford was the worst since they could not keep up with the Chevrolet's of that day, they simply inflated their "Horsepower" to fool their boosters and the uninformed.

...

The main prerequisite for suggested load capacity guidelines are tires. Similar models that come with optional tires have different listed load capacities. Considering what happened to Ford and Firestone, it is a pretty touchy subject with plenty of free-board built in by OEM.

I imagine the factory load capacity is often decided at the last minute when an OEM tire contract is finally settled. Then the door stickers are quickly printed.

Recently I saw a press release that said Ford planned different frames on the new "lightweight" 2015 F-150, depending on application, so some other minor "strength" specs can apply. As an example, all frames can withstand horrible overloads, yet all will break on ridiculous Baja jumps.

A good rule for practical load capacities, which may exceed conservative OEM guidelines, is to determine how much the axle has ever been rated for and "tire it up" for what you want to haul. The springs may sag but they can't do any worse than ride bottom bumpstop, which I wouldn't recommend (but some worktrucks chronically do). Pleasant handling will be affected long before that and it is a matter of what is acceptable to the driver, or owner that must replace more rapidly wearing parts.

There are no official vehicle "auto-cross" speeds or stopping distances mandated. New OEM vehicle handling therefore naturally varies all over the board. Older worn suspensions bring up the rear.

So don't worry too much about the sticker, but it is a good place to start.

Wes
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Never mind. Couldn't get my link to work.