First Timer

For a first I always suggest, start small and start used. Probably 80% of folks never get it right the first time. Besides why loose 25% the minute you tow it off the lot?

Bottom line is what are you willing to spend on an RV??

Will you pay thousands over what other's have paid, or will you make the deal of a lifetime??

For me, I didn't care what % I got off the MSRP.. I only cared about what I could afford to pay and what I wanted to enjoy the RV experience.. :)

As it turned out, I got a great deal on my 2003 travel trailer.. But that was just for me over 12 years ago.. I looked at used RV's and for what I got the brand new 2003 trailer for, I think I made out like a bandit.. :)

I look at NEW travel trailers today and there is NO EFFING WAY I would buy one today... Even if they would take 50% off the MSRP... I would not get what I have now in a 12 year old TT...OMG, the prices they want now is totally out of my budget and I just bought a new F150 2 years ago!

Anyway, make the deal that works for YOU.. Not what the INTERNET says they got their RV for...

I so love all the years with my 12 year old TT and will continue to enjoy the years in front of me.. :)

Mitch

I think it's important to look at units in all price and quality range. For example, a "light" unit might fit the bill, but compare it to a solid and well known "heavy" unit to understand the differences.

Compare weights, look underneath at tanks and valves, check tire sizes, and above all look in places where most people don't look. Often the build quality of a rig can really be determined by seeing what most people will miss. Solid wood versus particle board, hinges, trim boards, how things fit.

A 26 footer that weighs more might mean a stronger unit, a better frame, thicker wood. Buying a used unit from a few years back may be a better choice, but you have to know what to look for.

First tell us what you are going to pull it with. That will determine what size/weight trailer you should get.

My advice if you have never owned a TT, is to rent one the size you think you want for a week. We towed one for 10 days and three or four campgrounds on a trip to the Ozarks. It is expensive but you learn a lot really quick.

Also pay close attention to the max cargo limit of your TV, the tongue weight of your TT and weight of your camping stuff.

It is a learning experience once you move up. Somethings are the same but others are not. We made the progression up from a tent, to a PUP, to a travel trailer, still learning things. This forum has really helped with questions, pay attention and read. Hope everything works out.....

If you want to see a lot in one trip , new or used . You will get to see and feel various floorplans .



http://www.orlandorvdirect.com/rvs.php?type=3

Ask multiple people for opinions on the same questions.

Some general things to consider.

What Do you plan to tow with ?? After towing 11 trailers, I feel more comfortable NOT towing something close to the max tow rating.
The more beef you have in a tow vehicle (TV) the better it will feel and it will be more safe in the event of an evasive maneuver. You want the TV to control the trailer not the other way around.

weight: aluminum skin is lighter and easier/cheaper to repair . Can be done by anyone with basic skills/tools. It can be harder to clean but once you find the right cleaners to deal with the black streaks, its not so bad.

the other outer skin option:
Filon , is heavier , its easier to clean. More difficult to repair. More expensive to repair because its glued (vacuum bonded and or pinch rolled to the sidewalls) .
If water intrudes, the glue lets go and delamination occurs , it becomes soft to the touch.
Most dealers can't vacuum bond repairs as originally done from the factory (it requires special expensive machines) and it has to be sent back to the mfg. Dealers usually pinch roll the repair and the repair usually includes the entire wall, NOT just a section of wall.
Research the difference of filon vs alum skin to give yourself a better idea of the difference.

Physically able to maintain it ? or will have to hire someone ?
Any RV requires caulking from time to time . A simple scrape of a tree branch can puncture or peel a tiny section of roof caulk causing a potential leak. You have to climb on a ladder to do frequent inspections. Be prepared to do that in order to protect your purchase.

MSRP: yes its listed . In my experience in todays market , I have been seeing about 25% off msrp as a final sale. When interest rates are low, sales pick up, they like to move units.

Slides: slide-out offer more room . They do add weight 300/400/500# depending on size.
They do have moving parts. Tracks/motors/seals. They can misalign but can be adjusted if you know how. Motors do fail . You are often able to hand crank them back in if it doesn't bind within its frame.
They are not as well insulated as the rest of the coach and the outside roof should be kept clean / clear of debris in order to close it. (snow and ice accumulates in colder than Florida climates :) I don't know where you plan to use it )

Personally, I would like to stay away from slides that contain kitchens with flex gas lines/electric lines etc . Sometimes the placement of appliances and cabinets is awkward, to pay attention to that .
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26217678.cfm

IMO. If I was buying an RV with a slide, it would be a sofa or dinette as a slide. I have seen less issues and find it more user friendly.

If you can, get yourself into an rv repair shop and ask the mechanics questions . You will be amazed by the different answers than the salesman offers. Donuts and coffee go a long way. ;) try to ask the guys that repair them, they get to see a lot more units as one owner does. They will tell you what breaks and what doesn't.

Good luck ,
Bob