Fixing or Replacing the underside panel

its coroplast get it at home depot

Looked it up. Thanks. "Coroplast" is the correct spelling it appears.

So is this a reasonably common maintenance job (replacing it) after a number of years of use?

Doing it in one giant sheet would be pretty tricky as a replacement job since there are some things in the way....the gas line for one. But I could do it in large sections I guess and seal the seams with that tape I mentioned.

Anyone done this?

What's the tape called?

The coroplast comes from many places like sign shops, plastic warehouses online, and home improvement centers.

Manufacturer

Home Depot

I don't know what they are using for tape, but there might be something on the manufacturer website.

The "openings" in my coroplast are irregular and sealed using Great Stuff expanding foam rather than tape. Simply cut it with a serrated knife when needing access again.

The tape you are referring to is called underbelly seam tape.

Got a 'mobile home/manufactured home' shop or supplier ?

They carry tape and material.

Tape is expensive and usually comes in 180' roll

As substitute use 'Gorilla Tape'

What do you mean by wavy? It will sag under the tanks which is normal, especially if you have a heated underbelly.

Removing and reinstalling the coroplast is not the easiest of jobs and I don't think you really want to do it unless you're certain there is something really wrong. If you do take it down, it's also an opportunity to take care of any sloppy wiring, plumbing, tank supports, etc. and to maybe upgrade the insulation. All in all, not exactly a weekend job.

The tape is called Scrim tape and you can buy it by the foot at a dealer or RV repair shop and in 25' lengths on ebay. I would suggest cutting the coroplast into sections and mechanically attaching the seams with a length of flat aluminum and screws and then the Scrim tape over that. You'll also need to reseal piping and other penetrations.

myredracer wrote:
What do you mean by wavy? It will sag under the tanks which is normal, especially if you have a heated underbelly.

Removing and reinstalling the coroplast is not the easiest of jobs and I don't think you really want to do it unless you're certain there is something really wrong. If you do take it down, it's also an opportunity to take care of any sloppy wiring, plumbing, tank supports, etc. and to maybe upgrade the insulation. All in all, not exactly a weekend job.

The tape is called Scrim tape and you can buy it by the foot at a dealer or RV repair shop and in 25' lengths on ebay. I would suggest cutting the coroplast into sections and mechanically attaching the seams with a length of flat aluminum and screws and then the Scrim tape over that. You'll also need to reseal piping and other penetrations.

Thanks for all of the information everybody, especially this one.

By wavy I mean it sags in places and I would prefer it to look tight, but now that you mention it, perhaps it's just the holding tanks. In any case, I just know I'd do a much more meticulous job if I were to do it myself, in comparison to the production line job it received.

And I'm sure you're right, "not exactly a weekend job."

Mine is in sections and the joints have an aluminum strip and screws, but that sags too. Not sure what it is suppose to be screwed to though. I would assume a steel cross member but must not fastened well.

Is the coroplast on any of your trailers screwed to the frame rails? The 2015 Wind Jammer 3008 I bought is just sitting on top of the frame. Has a few screws across the back and front and two in the middle by each door. Just curious if this is normal as I would like to look under the panels sometime.