Foam to fiberglass glue

[ogrer]

I had a leak and water accumulated under one side of the Bigfoot, in the overhang, over the side walls of the truck box.

The foam is saturated with water and the plywood backing panels for the tie downs are rotten.

So, I have removed all of the kitchenette and floor. I have taken out the furnace and water heater.

I need to replace the foam and the plywood backing panels.

My question is what is the best glue to fix the foam to the fiberglass. I am also thinking of blue foam over Styrofoam.

I still have to find the leak before I close it back in.

Bob

[Reddog1]

ogrer, check your PMs.

Wayne

[ogrer]

Thanks for the help.

All of the repairs are done, and the TC is ready to roll.

I did have a pressure test done, and found some minor leaks in the clearance lights and ladder attachment points.

Again thanks.

Bob

[bigfootford]

ogrer wrote:
Thanks

Found the screws 2 on the inside top, 5 on the outside top and the two toe nailed under the material and the bottom.

The window is r & r with new tape. The window sill showed no signs of water entry

Weepers are clean. My hands are now really grimy. Bigfoot used black butyl tape. Next time I will wear gloves.

Bob

The windows in the overhead bed area can leak. The water will follow the foam seams then finally work it's way down.... Who knows where it will end up.... I had an over head light leak years ago on my BF.... Caught it early but the leak was inside the side bed cabinet, the center light was the one that was leaking.

Jim

[ogrer]

Thanks

Found the screws 2 on the inside top, 5 on the outside top and the two toe nailed under the material and the bottom.

The window is r & r with new tape. The window sill showed no signs of water entry

Weepers are clean. My hands are now really grimy. Bigfoot used black butyl tape. Next time I will wear gloves.

Bob

[bigfootford]

ogrer wrote:
How do I remove the window dressing?

Should be small screws with those square drive metric POS's. Located up inside of the top one..
Gotta look up inside. The sides are on the very bottom, toenailed in.

Jim

[bigfootford]

ogrer wrote:
Pictures explain it!

Wow, which side is this on... I can not orient myself.. Drivers front?

Sad....

jim

[ogrer]

Pictures explain it!

[ogrer]

How do I remove the window dressing?

[bigfootford]

Do the windows too for sure. I saw Reddog1's leak and the window... Read below about tightening the new windows a bit when the rig is new or if you replace the calking seal of the window.

They are not easy to get the old Butyl tape to release. A careful application of heat from a heat gun will help soften if needed. Then using putty knifes and screwdrivers to gently pry the windows away.

When reinstalling the windows put them into position without any tape applied and see if the window will sit flush in the opening. The frame and glass is pretty ridiged so if it does not fit use extra tape. I had one window in my Bigfoot that did not fit flush. It was leaking from the factory!
That window was the passenger rear window.

When screwing the window in place do not tighten the screws all the way down. Tighten them down like torquing a rim or the head on a motor. Do the final tightening watching the Butyl Tape as it begins to ooze out from the frame. Make sure it ooze's out all the way around. Once it has oozed a 1/16" or so all the way around that is enough tightening.

After about 3-6 mos you should go around and give the screws about a 1/2 -1 turn depending on how tight they feel. Everyone should do this on a new camper! You may have to do it again after about a year or so. If you do this a couple of times your windows will never leak.

Trim the excess Butyl tape carefully with a razor.

Jim

[covered_wagon]

Thought you might like that.

[Reddog1]

covered wagon wrote:
... I'm also president of the leakers association.

[covered_wagon]

BTW, Gorilla glue is too brittle and cannot hold if even slightly flexed. I won't use it as I've experienced it come apart from just temperature/ humidity changes.

[covered_wagon]

Not difficult but you need someone outside that can catch the window when pushing it out of the opening. That is after you remove the screws from the interior trim ring flange.

One point or place I had a leak that was very difficult to locate was the propane compartment door hinge. The hinge is located inside the putty tape and leaked thru the hinge mounting rivets. The compartment door frame did not leak but was the hinge. I found it after 2 years of not knowing where water was coming from by gently squirting the hose at various spots on the camper, starting at the bottom and slowly working my way up from the bottom with a trickle coming out the hose. I had someone inside watching for when the leak showed itself.

I'm also president of the leakers association.

[Reddog1]

I see no reason to use three different caulks. On the water heater flange I would, and do. use butyal tape only. Same is true on the windows.

The windows I have removed are pretty easy to remove. Simply remove the screws from the inside flange. Have someone on the outside catch the window while you gently posh it outward. Your Bigfoot window flange will look like the one in the photo I posted. It will be sealed with butyal tape. Look closely at it, and I bet you will see where a bad job was done on the factory caulk.