Forest River Vibe stabilizing issues

[plasticmaster]

I have a Forest River Vibe 308BHS with electric stabilizing jacks. I deploy the jacks until both feet touch down plus a couple more seconds so that it puts a little pressure on the frame. However, the camper still shakes a ton. Even when my kids roll over in their bed at night it wakes me up from the shaking. Also, when one enters the camper, the whole camper rocks. My previous camper (Jayco Jayflight 28BHS) had manual scissor jacks and I didn't have these issues. Has anyone else had these issues with a Vibe or with electric jacks? Any advice? Thanks.

[TundraTower]

I once bought the 4 aluminum screw jacks to see if they would work better than the electric stabilizers. After playing with them at the 4 corners to get everything perfectly level, I went in and discovered the doors in the trailer would not close. Apparently my Forest River frame was not stiff enough for this approach. Just something for you to consider.

As hinted in my earlier post, I actually bent one of the legs on my Lippert electric stabilizers. (when the instructions say it won't support the entire weight of the trailer, they mean it). You can't buy individual parts other than the motor so I had to buy an entire assembly. From Lippert's website, it would have been $550 + $120 shipping = $670 (in October 2014).

HOWEVER, I found basically the same assembly on the E-trailer website under the brand name of "Ultra-Fab". That one was only $415 and I caught it when E-trailer was offering free shipping.

I called Ultra-Fab and they said they buy these from Lippert and resell them to the after-market. Mine even had a Lippert sticker on it. They may not be quite as beefy as the OEM Lippert parts, but it works fine for me and I saved $250.

Good luck.

[KKWilliams]

This is exactly the thread I was hoping to find. My Sunset Trail Reserve 32BH has a lot of shake in it. I already have the SteadyFast system installed on it and BAL X-Chocks, but that didn't help. My theory was the shake left in it was due to the stabilizer design allowing a shift from side to side. It seems others have and the same experience and thoughts.

I recently lost the back stabilizer motor again (first was replaced under warranty). With this latest failure I am thinking I will replace the entire stabilizer with BAL scissor jacks. Attach the SteadyFast system to that to see if that helps. I know mine is not a Forest River so this is slightly off topic, but the stabilizers look identical and the problem sounds the same. Has anyone else replaced their fancy electronic stabilizer with the scissor jacks? If so do you have any regrets?

Thanks

[93Cobra2771]

Retired JSO wrote:
You may first try shortening the stabilizers travel by placing some boards or other stackable items under the feet. We have found, the shorter the travel, the more stable the RV.

That is not the case with these particular stabilizers. Straighter the legs are, the more stable it is. At least that has been my experience...

[Retired_JSO]

You may first try shortening the stabilizers travel by placing some boards or other stackable items under the feet. We have found, the shorter the travel, the more stable the RV.

[T-tom]

I have a 224RL Vibe and have the same movement when set on the stabilizer jacks. I have been thinking about adding some manual jacks at the front and rear.

[myredracer]

Electric "stabilizer" jacks? Hahaha.... :B7 Bounce/movement is a common problem with these.

You need stabilizer struts for the "stabilizer" jacks. We have the electric stab jacks too. They flex and move around way too much plus the foot pads are too close together when extended. I installed a pair of BAL Lockarm struts and they help quite a bit. I mounted the upper ends to the underside of the bumper which also gives some fore/aft control. If you add stabilizer struts, you will need Lippert's adaptor kit #314597 so that the struts won't hit the stab. jack.

You can buy just a pair of BAL Lockarm struts which are cheaper as most or all of the others come in a set of 4. It's my feeling that just a pair at the rear will help the most. If you find that you want a 2nd set at the front, you can just buy another pair of the Lockarms. Stabilizer struts will reduce side to side movement and vertical movement at centerline of the frame but not rotational movement.

The first line of attack should be some chocks to prevent the wheels from moving. We use BAL xX-chocks.

Adding a pair of aluminum stacker jacks or bottle jacks just ahead of the axles can help for frames that flex more or for longer frames.

Adding an aluminum stacker jack or bottle jack at each of the four corners of the frame can help. We bought a set of 4 aluminum stacker jacks and tried them a couple of times. Didn't help as much as I expected in our case plus the time and effort of setting them up every time isn't worth it.

Entry stairs contribute to movement due to leverage. Watch one of the electric stab. jacks while someone walks in and out and you will be surprised at how much the jacks flex and move around. There is a bottom step stabilizer available. The better thing is a set of Torklift's Glowsteps which make quite a difference but are costlier - we now have them and they are great.

The last point is that some frames are a weaker design and flex more for that reason alone. On top of that, some TTs have floor joists that are too far apart for the thickness of subfloor that is used. We have some friends with a Keystone TT and when they walk around, the floor moves up and down quite a bit.

Sometimes there's just so much you can do without a lot more time and expense and it's better to call it good enough.

[Dog_Trainer]

mbopp wrote:
Are those the Lippert stabilizers?
My theory - for what it's worth - is that the same mechanism that allows the jacks to compensate for uneven ground also allows the trailer to rock on its centerline. I put some $5 flea market scissors jacks under the frame in front of the tires, it helped quite a bit.

BTW - the new GD has manual jacks.

That is what I did , added the jacks to the trailer frame just in front of the tires each side. I use an electric drill motor to put them down. Shake is gone.

[93Cobra2771]

Manual jacks or the small aluminum jackstands in front of the TT wheels will solve 95% of your issue.

JT strongarms or the fastaway or similar system will also solve your problem.

I have found the lippert elec stabilizers do MUCH better if they don't have any blocks under them. The longer they are extended out, the more stable they are. Which is the exact opposite of the scissor style jacks.

[sp8gold]

While our Reflection came with the Lippert electric jacks, I also was unhappy with the movement. I put installed a set of manual jacks between the rear axle and the real jacks that I use first. This has made a big difference.

[TundraTower]

Are those the Lippert stabilizers?
My theory - for what it's worth - is that the same mechanism that allows the jacks to compensate for uneven ground also allows the trailer to rock on its centerline. I put some $5 flea market scissors jacks under the frame in front of the tires, it helped quite a bit.
=============
MBOPP is correct with his statement above.

The electric stabilizer mechanism will allow some rocking, but I'll bet you are feeling the trailer bounce on the axle springs. Those stabilizers will not come close to picking the trailer load off the springs before the legs bend (don't ask how I know).

I made a very simple jack out of a 5/8" threaded rod and square tubing to put between the ground and the frame. Just one on each side will stop all the vibrations for us.

[WayneAt63044]

I have the Vibe in my signature and find that the jacks need to make considerable noise to be firm. Remember the jack foot nearest the ground contacts first and then the other one. I doubt that 2 seconds after the second foot touches is enough. I run mine until there is noticeable creaking, snapping, and groaning after the second foot touches. My wife always stops too soon. (Actually I prefer the the manual jacks run with a cordless drill as I can tell the torque applied to each jack and they are FASTER.)

[old_idaho_guy]

I've found that if you put some boards or other blocks under the stabilizers so they are not extended completely there is less movement. Also some screw chocks in between the wheels helps also. I still like not having to manually lower the stab's, but then I'm an old Idaho guy.

[bobndot]

Gadgets ,
inexpensive motors to deal with, now we find out , they are not as stable as the solid non electric ones. Seems like someone somewhere is having themselves a good laugh at our expense . (not to mention power awnings that don't retract)
Someday it will be , if you can use your thumb, you can go camping. Smartphones will be able to drive the truck, back it hitched up into a tight wooded campsite, unhitch itself, level itself and block the wheels with a remote parking brake. The awning gets deployed as does the BBQ as it swings off its bumper rack and cooks your food. This can all be done while knapping .

[mbopp]

Are those the Lippert stabilizers?
My theory - for what it's worth - is that the same mechanism that allows the jacks to compensate for uneven ground also allows the trailer to rock on its centerline. I put some $5 flea market scissors jacks under the frame in front of the tires, it helped quite a bit.

BTW - the new GD has manual jacks.