Fridge won't fit

When I did the swap on my vintage rig, I ended up removing the full front bezel to get the fridge out of the older unit (This required cutting alot of glue to separate the face plate from the thermoformed plastic interior casing), so I could side the unit out without having to dismantle the cooling unit, then do the reverse to put it back in on the other camper. (I swapped the fridges between my 1974 KIT and 1975 Amerigo, as the KIT's fridge was less rusty).

Even with that bezel removed, I had to complete remove the door and its jam assembly, plus the bathroom door in order to squeak it out.

Kayteg1 wrote:

ajriding wrote:

3-way is for dummies, ..

I beg you to differ.
Not only as mentioned above- running on 12V having solar makes lot of sense, but I used my old TC fridge in my Sprinter van conversion with no propane.
Van has 250 amp alternator, dual AC and 4-cylinder engine can idle using 1/4 gallon of diesel per hr.
So the idea is to use van engine as generator.
Beside, 12V element, depends on fridge takes 10-20 amp, so it can run 2-4 hr on single battery (good for lunch stops).
But bare in mind that 12V elements are having smaller output than other ways. Driving often in 120F, occasionally I switch on inverter and run fridge on 120V mode.

DOn't do it. Yes, electrically it will run off batteries. Yes, it will kill batteries and alternators fast.
I actually burned out an alternator (I think 130 amp) driving two days running high loads. It was a nightmare to get the old one off, and I ended up having to run the generator to power the vehicle battery to get home. fortunately I had a high powered battery charger that was connected to coach batteries that had a switch to "jump" the vehicle battery so no jerry-rigging necessary. Not an ideal drive situation.

Running the inverter to run the heating element is even less efficient.

Run it on shore power or run it on propane, not DC unless you have a big enough solar array to let the sun 100% power your electric needs, and then only during daylight. Save your batteries at all cost!
Propane is cheap, new batteries are not.

If you have a special situation, a 250 amp alternator made to run high loads, a diesel that can idle for long periods and sip fuel, then you don't need any advice on how to run your rig, the rest of us are talking about the average rig, and diesels that DO NOT like to idle for long periods of time (these are not class 8 truck engines). Don't base your decision on what a class 8 rig can do if you have a regular camper...

On removal:
If it is junk, then get it out, break it apart or however and whatever needed. Otherwise you will need to pull it out thru the window. It is not a big deal to remove the entire window and re-install. There are post on doing this, and learning as you go is fine too. Dont fear the reaper.

I can't find it now but saw a video once. Probably Youtube but not sure. Put dinette down & cover with moving blanket. Lay fridge on it & cut it in half with a sawz-all & take it out the door. Then take most of the back off the new fridge, and the door. Just enough to get it in the entrance door. Put it all back together again on the moving blanket & then install. I never would have though of doing it but was amazed how well it worked.

ajriding wrote:

3-way is for dummies, and is a selling point for newbies who don't know anything yet. It is not bad to have the DC option, but just not very important in the scheme of things. Don't fret getting a 2-way. Running the fridge heating element on DC power has no advantages and is not useful unless some emergency, like u run out of propane... Running on DC will kill batteries, and running on DC while driving will be hard on the vehicle alternator, which is also expensive, and for non-do-it-yourselfers expensive to have replaced. Running DC off solar would work if you have a roof full of panels which is way more expensive than a little bit of propane...
2-way is all I would ever want. Run it on propane while driving and parked, on AC when plugged in, and never on DC if at all possible...

I beg you to differ.
Not only as mentioned above- running on 12V having solar makes lot of sense, but I used my old TC fridge in my Sprinter van conversion with no propane.
Van has 250 amp alternator, dual AC and 4-cylinder engine can idle using 1/4 gallon of diesel per hr.
So the idea is to use van engine as generator.
Beside, 12V element, depends on fridge takes 10-20 amp, so it can run 2-4 hr on single battery (good for lunch stops).
But bare in mind that 12V elements are having smaller output than other ways. Driving often in 120F, occasionally I switch on inverter and run fridge on 120V mode.

bigfootford wrote:
What is wrong with these camper mfg's?

No way to remove a fridge?

That is some damning engineering in my opinion, or lack of!
Jim

RV engineers are the failed or washed out auto-wannabe engineers that could not hack it...

2-way vs 3-way??
3-way is for dummies, and is a selling point for newbies who don't know anything yet. It is not bad to have the DC option, but just not very important in the scheme of things. Don't fret getting a 2-way. Running the fridge heating element on DC power has no advantages and is not useful unless some emergency, like u run out of propane... Running on DC will kill batteries, and running on DC while driving will be hard on the vehicle alternator, which is also expensive, and for non-do-it-yourselfers expensive to have replaced. Running DC off solar would work if you have a roof full of panels which is way more expensive than a little bit of propane...
2-way is all I would ever want. Run it on propane while driving and parked, on AC when plugged in, and never on DC if at all possible...

Slymer wrote:
I watched a video once where they put a moving blanket on the dinette after setting it down. Took the old fridge out, put it on moving blanket & cut it in half and out the door. Then the new fridge they took apart, brought the pieces in to the blanket & put it back together & installed it Long process but it worked without damage. Can't remember where I saw it.

Not a video but this Truck Camper Magazine article shows the same process you describe.

BurbMan wrote:
I was able to find a brand new scratch/dent Dometic 2551 for almost the same price as just the cooling unit. Picked it up in Elkhart this weekend along with the roll of Filon. The original was the Dometic 2554 is 3-way, the 2551 is only 2-way. We only have room on the roof for 100w of solar, which is about 5 a/h, the fridge draws 15 a/h running on 12v, so if we stop for lunch and turn the truck off, I'd need to switch the fridge to gas anyways to keep the battery from going dead.

Will be pulling the slide this week, stay tuned,

The flat area of the roof is not the only place for a panel. On the slight slope of the nose on either side of the hatch on the cabover I was easily able to mount 2 100 watt panels on my 2008 Lance 1055

I was able to find a brand new scratch/dent Dometic 2551 for almost the same price as just the cooling unit. Picked it up in Elkhart this weekend along with the roll of Filon. The original was the Dometic 2554 is 3-way, the 2551 is only 2-way. We only have room on the roof for 100w of solar, which is about 5 a/h, the fridge draws 15 a/h running on 12v, so if we stop for lunch and turn the truck off, I'd need to switch the fridge to gas anyways to keep the battery from going dead.

Will be pulling the slide this week, stay tuned,

Paradox123 wrote:


We run our fridge on DC when traveling. The solar panels keep the batteries fully charged as long as there is daylight.

Same here, when I remember to switch it to DC before we leave. But we charge the batteries from the truck alternator as well as solar.

I’m sure there is a “way” to remove the fridge. But, if you’ve worked on anything, you know the engineering is kind of off at times. Not a big deal it’s just the engineers are the QA for engineers and the mechanics and customers should be. :D