Genrac Inpact 36 lp - Sleepy Help

Ah-
1. Pass
2. Pass
3. It takes a few seconds-when hitting start-it activates ign-carb stepper motor , gas solenoid-lastly sends power to starter solenoid(contactor. If you do not eventually see 12v at 56 it is either wire from board or board .. FAIL
4. Inconclusive:
You will not see power at 16 if none at 56. ONLY IF you see constant power at 56 and none at 16 then contactor coil is bad.

Retest- you need to see power at 56 (sending power TO contactor) when hitting start after a few seconds.
Just fyi the 2 small terminals are end leads of internal coil. When energised by 56 it creates a magnet that drives a contact plate between the 2 large termianls. You could also test between the 2 small terminals testing coil. Its sounding like though no output from board.

Ha-I'll look for MN plates:)

PS: AnEv942 - I note in your profile you may be in SLO County somewhere. I will actually be in Santa Barbara at the Harbor View Tuesday and wed nights. I have a couple of meetings in Carp going on.

I think I got it figured out.

1. Metered from ground to hotwire in and got 12 vdc. just to make sure there was juice from batter to contactor terminal.
2. Metered from ground to wire 56 - BLUE - terminal got zero.
3. Hit START - did NOT get battery voltage - so....
4. Moved lead from wire 56 to wire 16 (SM1 contact point) and actuated START button - got zero
5. I think that puts me at paragraph 4, b under STARTER CONTACTOR - "If battery voltage is not indicated replace Starter Contactor."

This is consistent with what I did earlier today bypassing contactor to get SM1 to turn.

Agree?

Yes I also see the 15amp fuse referance, its also list on the trouble shooting guide as 15 amp? Im going out to mine-but having had mine out there was no other fuse. Im going to pull the 7.5 amp or from behind and test between it and the small wire that goes to battery connection on contactor that poweres other board funtions. Note that battery cable once jumped by contactor goes directly to starter motor-there are no other 12v feeds besides that small red wire on contactor lug...which I believe goes to the 7.5 fuse...

Edit: Checked- Yes the small 12v feed wire goes directly to/thru the 7.5 fuse holder (F1) on panle which feeds everything. It is a pain to get to as its behind the ign. box. Harder to reach from here...Either remove or use mirror to identify which of the 2 small terminals on contactor is hot/which is ground. On mine I can sorta see the ground terminal-using screwdriver with tape around to insualte hold against blue wire/hot terminal..then apply 12v power with jumper-dont flinch.

Or simply dissconnect power and remove the contactor-test outside, I would not replace without testing. In either case to test or replace same amount of work. And once removed you can check output from board.

AnEv942 - repair manual 6.3-2 top right paragraph mentions "15A fuse". However - schematic 6.3-1 only shows one fuse between A6060 and the hot side. I wonder if "F1" is actually the 7.5A and the mention of the "15A" is incorrect. Since I've already replaced the 7.5 that might be all the traction from simple fuse replacement.

If contactor suspect, as noted simply jump a hot wire from battery to the wire coming from gen internals (mine is blue wire). One of the small termainals on base of contactor. All it does is energize the contactor-works like a relay. If contactor bad (burnt coil) nothing will happen-if contactor points burnt it might click but not jump main terminals, if contactor good motor should spin-then board would be next test. Um another fuse Im unaware of.

Edit: not sure but to be safe remove the blue wire 1ST from contactor. It goes directly to plug on board from starter board relay. (white rectangular plug in pic above). You could then jump the starter contactor to see if it works. If it does then meter the blue wire for 12v when holding start button. Again you should unplug the gas solenoid (and isolate) while testing (unless gas off) other wise dumping fule while hittin start. There is a 2-3 second delay before starter engages.

AnEv942

Just came in from looking at a couple things to see your message.

1. I in fact did jump across the contactor contacts and the starter turned vigorously... would seem to indicate starter is OK.

2. I did find the service manual on line and it mentioned a 15A fuse on the contactor lug. I didn't see one.... did I miss it? I would love to replace a "contactor fuse" and have that work.

3. All the connections appeared sound and none of the insulation was missing from any of the wires....

4. In my mind I think this is the contactor or it's fuse if one exists, or I fried the A6060 board. You would think it would have overload protection though and the fact that the 7.5A fuse blew makes me think the board was likely isolated before any damage was done.

Maybe I'll order a contactor and replace that - seems an inexpensive step prior to trying find a service center.

Oh--melted terrminal cover-Id check ALL connections and meter, especially the battery cables then grounds. If you have had a bad connection thats arced badly could be issue..
Disconnect cable at battery 1st when removing the cable at gen.

Link to manual http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0D1752.pdf

Link toThread where I found my starting issues-failure of the board relay that sends power to energize the starter contactor (starter solenoid). But simple board failure-not from reverse polarity connection.

There are many test you can perform to identify problem -most however depending on generator install require removal to access. However a few simple ones may help.
1. To verify that starter motor is OK, simply jump the 2 large terminals on starter contactor. (It sets behind the lil square box.) One is the battery cable the other goes directly to starter motor. It wont start but should turn. You could use battery jumper cable and make contact outside gen.
2. If motor turns when power applied check the contactor. Run a small hot 12v lead, jumper wire from battery and touch the small terminal at bottom of contactor that BLUE wire is connected to/
This energizes the contactor (solenoid) and sends power to starter. If it doesn't turn but turns with step 1, its likely the contactors coil is burnt. If contacto clicks though could be contacts inside contactor. (you can fix if coil OK) or fairly inexpensive to replace.

If starter does turn when manually energized then out put from board (blue wire) needs to be checked. should be a constant 12v when start button engaged after 2/3 seconds. (unplug wires to gas solenoid which is activated when start button pushed, probably click your hearing)check voltage at blue wire terminal of contactor. If no power or rapidly fluctuating then its board out put.

Its a start, at least to eliminate something. I'm trying to picture reverse polarity--I cant see how it would affect starter or solenoid though. but might be lucky well-boards aren't cheap.
Oh pic
Board is accessed by removing the switch panel and other tins. Its mounted vertical beside fan

This may have something to do with the starter contacts having been arched and gotten a little burnt.