โDec-06-2014 04:47 AM
โMar-16-2015 11:16 AM
โMar-16-2015 10:52 AM
โMar-16-2015 07:04 AM
Baja937 wrote:He reversed the plug in at the source, I watched him do it. It was very old, worn and had a lot of rust in it. Even after almost 3 months when we had a friend that works on RV's come over and reversed the polarity, the ground or green as you call it, was down not up, the hot/ or red was on the right instead of the left, and the neutral or white was on the right, was turned around to the correct the issue. He said there was only a partial ground, so he replaced the plug in, in the electrical box. And that is a 30 amp connection. And yes before you ask, he is a state certified, license, bonded and insured tech. That only works on RV's, Motorhomes etc. He had one of those yellow meters that one of you put in this post, and checked for the amount of electrity that was coming out of each connection. Since the water heater was fried, he also replaced the thermostat, that had no power at all, so I was having a problem with the water heater, and as I said he replaced the thermostat and rechecked the power to it. Then there was power to the water heater. He also checked the GFI we had replaced in the coach, and the one outside on the pedestal or as you call it the amp's box, that one was also replaced. The one outside that is. The one in the coach was fine, and working like it should be. He said who ever repaired the electrical box did a shady job. The box is not a PG&E box, its one the park put in. When in fact as he told me, when the trailer In this spot should have had the entire box replaced, but was only inspected. Apparently that wasn't good enough. I asked him also about the water that was on the concrete surrounding the electrical box, and he said that would also cause a problem, like burn out, because as we know water and electric don't mix. He also said the amount of wattage was causing high amounts of eclectics, where I was getting bills for electric that was very high. I have never had a electric bill that was 120.00, 145.00, 133.00 or even 96.00 bucks a month. I usually run about 37 dollars a month. I am a RV, not a house. Even when the summer heat, it wouldn't be that high. This park has its own wattage. we figured we are paying 26 of electrical wattage. Way to high. We have elected to move to Bakersfield in a park that is safe, and electrical box is up to code. Once he repaired the box outside, made sure that my wiring inside the coach was up to date, including breakers and fuse's, every thing was fine. He also said the GFI that is connected to the elect box outside that has a GFI wouldn't cost us more money for electrical. The main issue was the pedestal was screwed up. Just inspecting the electrical box at he source wasn't enough. When they had a fire in this space, the space next to this one also suffered major electrical damages and that box in space 134 was replaced completely. The water heater connection in side the coach was reversed so you can run either propane or electric and never run out of hot water. He also said with his well where the owner puts gallons of bleach down it, is a cause for alarm, as their is a bacteria issue. He attempted to tell me it was Oscha, which that is when there are issues with construction, not a well. He pours gallons of bleach down in the well every damn night. The owner of this park doesn't know jack about RV parks, how to maintain, etc. So on that note, I will get out of here. I have never experienced electrical problems in any of the RV parks I have lived in, except this one. And yes he will have to pay part of the mess up, as he is the owner of this park, and I am done playing the game.
Susan---You say he found GROUNDING problems at the Box? What exactly did he do for that?
What about the REVERSE POLARITY issue at the Box?
โMar-16-2015 12:54 AM
โMar-15-2015 11:16 PM
โMar-15-2015 09:51 PM
westend wrote:
Updates?
โMar-15-2015 10:33 AM
โMar-15-2015 10:13 AM
Oaklevel wrote:
There could and probably is two issues one a the pedestal & one in the coach. There probably is a wiring issue with the wiring to the converter or at the plug coming into the RV. I have had a trailer skin shocking me issue years ago & the problem was with the trailer wiring........... Call a mobile RV repair much cheaper than being dead........
โMar-15-2015 10:09 AM
โMar-15-2015 09:17 AM
Oaklevel wrote:I am just going to call my insurance company and take the coach into a repair shop. If they figure out its not my wiring, then I will go somewhere. Where I don't know, but I have had enough of this crap.
There could and probably is two issues one a the pedestal & one in the coach. There probably is a wiring issue with the wiring to the converter or at the plug coming into the RV. I have had a trailer skin shocking me issue years ago & the problem was with the trailer wiring........... Call a mobile RV repair much cheaper than being dead........
โMar-15-2015 09:16 AM
โMar-15-2015 08:59 AM
โMar-15-2015 08:40 AM
โMar-15-2015 07:39 AM
westend wrote:The model number is 44260 the red light is on. With the green on the left. Reverse polarity, 120v,30 amp, 2100 Joules of surge protection.
You reversed polarity where?
If you have a surge protector plugged into the pedestal and it has a red light on, it is an issue with the pedestal and it's connections.
Are you still parked in the same spot? Have you had anyone knowledgeable look at your RV's electrical system?
If the DISH system is the root of your electrical problems, remove it from your RV (after you unplug from the pedestal), call back the company and have it correctly installed.
I'd suggest you hire an experienced RV tech, a mobile guy, and have him look over your RV and the pedestal. This stuff isn't hard to figure out but you are way out of your depth and this could be a serious problem.