GVWR

[MT_Camper]

I Have a 2017 F250 GVWR 10,000 lbs, rear GAWR 6340, front GAWR 4400, E rated tires at 3640 lbs. I have added 8600 lb Timbrens, lower stable loads and a Hellwig bigwig sway bar. I weighed my truck full of gas, two passengers, camper full of water and everything else we thought we needed to bring. The Cat Scale weighed in at:
Front axle 4060
Rear axle 6340
Gross weight 10400
The scale shows I am 400 Lbs over my GVWR listed on my truck.
The truck handles the camper very well.
My question is will this present any problems and what can I do to help?
Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks!


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[john_bet]

Walaby wrote:
Your rear GAWR is 6340 and your actual rear axle weight is 6340?

You're at your max on Rear Axle weight.

I agree with that GVWR for 3/4 ton is artificially set at 10K, but axle ratings are not.

Are you sure your rear GAWR is 6340? Aren't those ratings normally at the hundreths (ie 6300 or 6400)?

There's more the the RAWR than the tires. Axles themselves, springs etc...

Mike

In your expert opinion what should the gvw be for a 3/4 ton truck if 10,000 is low?

[blt2ski]

mowermech wrote:

drsteve wrote:
I like living in a state that doesn't charge registration fees by GVWR until you hit 21,000 lb.

IIRC, increasing the GVW 14K for my old 1994 Dodge Ram 3500 dually cost me less than $5.
The GVW fee for my current truck (see sig.) was $62.50. However, that is for a PERMANENT registration. I will never have to renew the registration nor pay a GVW fee again as long as I own the truck! The total fees for the PERMANENT registration were $266+ change.
What will your renewal cost when it comes due?

Wa st is around $10-15 per ton. Reasonably cheep. My C2500 with an 8000 lb plate is $120, altho having a personalized plate adds to the total. My Dumptruck is over $200 due to the 26K plate.

One issue some may have, if you travel into a state where tonnage is required, and you have not paid any, you may have to buy a temp permit with the correct tonnage if driving what would be called a truck! Some states require one to stop no matter what if over 16K total. Others it is only if a true commercial setup. Depends upon how they feel that day. Generally speaking, the nice thing about not having enough paid for tonnage, is that is not a moving violation, so it is not on your driving record, 90+% of the time. The few times I have been pulled over above my paid for plate. I got a 10 day, up the tonnage to the correct amount, ie a ton over what I was running down the road at. No big!

Marty

[mowermech]

drsteve wrote:
I like living in a state that doesn't charge registration fees by GVWR until you hit 21,000 lb.

IIRC, increasing the GVW 14K for my old 1994 Dodge Ram 3500 dually cost me less than $5.
The GVW fee for my current truck (see sig.) was $62.50. However, that is for a PERMANENT registration. I will never have to renew the registration nor pay a GVW fee again as long as I own the truck! The total fees for the PERMANENT registration were $266+ change.
What will your renewal cost when it comes due?

[Me_Again]

VernDiesel wrote:
Your good but fwiw its ideal to set your WDH and loading in truck and loading in TT to at minimum replace your unloaded trucks steer weight. (whatever that is you can find it on the scale if you don't know it) This might play out as transferring another 200 pounds off the drive back to the steer and another 40 off the drive back to the TT axles. (The TW is dynamic since you have a WDH)

Also you should check your TW percentage.Subtract your unloaded truck weight from your loaded truck weight then take that number and divide it into the gross trailer weight. It should be in the 10 to 15 percent range.

Now you have the most stable safe tow with best emergency swerve around for accident avoidance and maximum stopping power. You should still review your scale slips for CVW and tongue weight to receiver rating. If you no longer have stock original tires check their weight rating as well.

Note by adjusting hitch & load you can lower your TW and truck GVW. Sometimes with heavier trailers for warranty & such people want the TW down to where they are below the trucks GVWR. (You won't make that unless you chuck stuff LOL) Other times the priority is a little more TW for maximum stability. Physics wise on a bumper pull for lack of proper term its preferable to have more weight on the TV axles than on the TT axles so the tail can't wag the dog as they say.

I do not think OP has a bumper pull. One would be hard press to have 6340 on rear axle with a bumper pull, having over 3K of hitch weight.

OP Has a 2011 Lance 855 truck camper.

[drsteve]

I like living in a state that doesn't charge registration fees by GVWR until you hit 21,000 lb.

[mowermech]

What is the GVW listed on your registration? If it is 11,000 lbs. or more, you are good to go. If it is 10,000 lbs. or less, pay the few dollars and set it at 12 or 14,000 lbs., then you will be legal.
If you look up the GAWR listed for your model of rear axle by the axle manufacturer, you will quite likely find that it is quite a bit more than what the truck manufacturer says it is. Again, you are good to go.

[VernDiesel]

Your good but fwiw its ideal to set your WDH and loading in truck and loading in TT to at minimum replace your unloaded trucks steer weight. (whatever that is you can find it on the scale if you don't know it) This might play out as transferring another 200 pounds off the drive back to the steer and another 40 off the drive back to the TT axles. (The TW is dynamic since you have a WDH)

Also you should check your TW percentage.Subtract your unloaded truck weight from your loaded truck weight then take that number and divide it into the gross trailer weight. It should be in the 10 to 15 percent range.

Now you have the most stable safe tow with best emergency swerve around for accident avoidance and maximum stopping power. You should still review your scale slips for CVW and tongue weight to receiver rating. If you no longer have stock original tires check their weight rating as well.

Note by adjusting hitch & load you can lower your TW and truck GVW. Sometimes with heavier trailers for warranty & such people want the TW down to where they are below the trucks GVWR. (You won't make that unless you chuck stuff LOL) Other times the priority is a little more TW for maximum stability. Physics wise on a bumper pull for lack of proper term its preferable to have more weight on the TV axles than on the TT axles so the tail can't wag the dog as they say.

[Cummins12V98]

blt2ski wrote:
As long as you have the 15K gvw plate in Montana, your golden! If you have the 7500 gvw plate, your overweight! per the REAL weight laws. If you are in Wa st, if you have a 12k GVW plate, your golden, if a 10K plate, your overweight per the REAL weight police and laws.....

So what was the question again?

Marty

YUP!!!

[blt2ski]

As long as you have the 15K gvw plate in Montana, your golden! If you have the 7500 gvw plate, your overweight! per the REAL weight laws. If you are in Wa st, if you have a 12k GVW plate, your golden, if a 10K plate, your overweight per the REAL weight police and laws.....

So what was the question again?

Marty

[Grit_dog]

You’re good!
6300lbs is not a lot on the rear axle. Not even close to stressing anything out.

[Walaby]

Your rear GAWR is 6340 and your actual rear axle weight is 6340?

You're at your max on Rear Axle weight.

I agree with that GVWR for 3/4 ton is artificially set at 10K, but axle ratings are not.

Are you sure your rear GAWR is 6340? Aren't those ratings normally at the hundreths (ie 6300 or 6400)?

There's more the the RAWR than the tires. Axles themselves, springs etc...

Mike

[Me_Again]

MT Camper wrote:
I Have a 2017 F250 GVWR 10,000 lbs, rear GAWR 6340, front GAWR 4400, E rated tires at 3640 lbs. I have added 8600 lb Timbrens, lower stable loads and a Hellwig bigwig sway bar. I weighed my truck full of gas, two passengers, camper full of water and everything else we thought we needed to bring. The Cat Scale weighed in at:
Front axle 4060
Rear axle 6340
Gross weight 10400
The scale shows I am 400 Lbs over my GVWR listed on my truck.
The truck handles the camper very well.
My question is will this present any problems and what can I do to help?
Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks!

Ask one of the local ranchers what a 250/2500 can legally haul/tow. It will be quite different for what the rv.net weight police will tell you.

If Montana licenses tonnage, make sure you have paid for enough. Chris

[Learjet]

MT Camper wrote:
I have added 8600 lb Timbrens, lower stable loads
Thanks!

Wow, 8,600 lbs Timbrens and stable loads? seems like overkill for the weight. Might be a rough ride.

[KD4UPL]

I don't see any problems with your set up. Yes, technically your over the 10,000 GVWR that truck carries to dodge certain DOT regulations. You're well withing the truck's actual physical capabilities. The rear axle weight is generally based on the tires, apparently yours are upgraded from what came on it.
I carried my TC on a Chevy 3500 SRW rated for 9,900 pounds GVWR. I weighed in at 11,140 ready to camp. I then carried it on a Chevy dually rated for 11,400 GVWR, I weighed in at 13,000 ready to camp. Both rigs logged thousands of trouble free miles.