Happijac tie downs installed! Maybe some other discussion...

Went with these because of cost mainly, but I believe that they'll work well for me and what I do. Also have been known to go off road occasionally. Got what I feel was a good deal from some internet site. They also included the bar that goes between the brackets for my application.

So, I'll include a couple of pictures. Basically, what I have to say about them is this: I think the installation looks elegant, I was surprised at the ease of the installation, and when I ordered the system I didn't know that it came with the centering guides. I have yet to have the camper on the truck yet, but I am happy that I have the centering guides. I've only loaded the camper on the truck a total of three times and what seems to like to happen is I get the back where it needs to be, and the front of the camper is always loaded towards the passenger side of the truck.

Now, I think the turnbuckles that I already have will work with this mounting system and I can get rid of the home made stuff that I have. I am way more confident in the way that the Happijacs are mounted and I would consider it frame mounted. Plus, the stuff I had before used chains and it was a lot of extra stuff to hook up when securing the camper. I also have heard that chains with spring loaded turnbuckles can cause some undesired feelings while driving.

Here's what the old setup looked like

And here's a photo of the truck and the camper with the old home made setup.

Now for the discussion. I have recently been in the process of selling my 2006 Cummins truck. I was going to find a dually, but there are a few issues with this. I don't have swing out brackets. My truck is already setup with everything besides a super hitch. And I would much rather bank the money and pay things off and go with some 19.5s and commercial tires on this truck. Dry weight of the camper is probably 3000 lbs, and id like to be able to tow a Mastercraft ski boat on a tandem axle trailer. Nuts, or what?

Let me know what you think. Just can't seem to find a decent truck for a decent price. Everything is inflated right now. I am over on weight, but I don't feel like it's anything the truck can't handle. Tires are for sure a concern though. And I know this topic has been beaten to death, through the nermerous searches I've done trying to justify not having to get another truck. This one is my baby. It needs some paint and trans work. I'd much rather use the money for it and bank some.

Truck Campers

zcookiemonstar
Explorer
Jan 03, 2016
tattoobob wrote:
I may not be understanding this right, are people saying 19.5 inch tires are going to take away spring sag in the rear, and why isn't anyone suggesting to add a leaf or two?

I don't think you should ad any thing to the suspension until you go to a good spring shop and have them check out the condition of what you have. They can tell you the best place to start. You may need to ad a leaf or you may be better off just getting a whole new set a springs. Adding products to your springs if they are worn out is a waste of money.
ISBRAM
Explorer
Jan 02, 2016
getpower1 wrote:

Sorry, that picture is from the day I picked the camper up. I don't have any recent side shots. It was to show the camper and truck as a whole and the old home made tie downs. I've got airbags. Check my signature. Unfortunately, my truck didn't come with factory overloads or a rear sway bar, the bags level it out. I've driven with the camper on with the bags, but not the sway bar yet. The bags helped sway a lot, but they had to have 80psi in them. I noticed that with 65psi there was significant sway. I can't wait to see what the sway bar does for me. Weighing the rig is on the list. I'm betting around 4000 lbs. We are still used to tenting it. So really on the trip out, there is the weight of the camper and the water. Then on the way back, there is probably no water and add the waste. Other than that it's just the normal stuff we would bring. We haven't added anything more to our camping setup because we have the space to.

I replaced my factory rear anti sway bar and it helped so much I did the front also. I think the 19.5s really did just as much again, but the increased load safety was the motivation for the upgrade. I’m to the point now that loaded up the truck corners on mountain highways as well as it did empty. I’m scaling at about 10,800 loaded without people or beer and groceries, I’m sure you’ll be at least 1,500 lbs. more loaded with water and fuel.
Reddog1
Explorer II
Jan 02, 2016
tattoobob wrote:
I may not be understanding this right, are people saying 19.5 inch tires are going to take away spring sag in the rear, and why isn't anyone suggesting to add a leaf or two?
You are not understanding this right. The 19.5s have absolutely nothing to do with spring sag. The 19.5s are to reduce the sidewall flex and increase the tire load capacity. Reducing the sidewall flex will reduce sway.

People do suggest adding leafs to spring packs. But, this typically relates to reducing the rear sag when the TC is loaded. It is a totally different discussion than 19.5s.

Wayne
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Jan 02, 2016
tattoobob wrote:
I may not be understanding this right, are people saying 19.5 inch tires are going to take away spring sag in the rear, and why isn't anyone suggesting to add a leaf or two?

no the 19.5s have load margin safety and reduce sidewall flex induced sway with heavy loads. You need extra leaf springs, airbags, or other suspension mods to eliminate sag
tattoobob
Explorer
Jan 01, 2016
I may not be understanding this right, are people saying 19.5 inch tires are going to take away spring sag in the rear, and why isn't anyone suggesting to add a leaf or two?
Reddog1
Explorer II
Jan 01, 2016
I have never really looked at the SuperHitch due to my 2500 weighing in at 10400 pounds, of which about 6200 was on the rear axle. Consdering I flat tow my Samirai, and use it for hauling my extra "stuff", I have nt needed the Superehitch.

Designed for 1200 pounds tongue weight is very impressive. I have never read about anyone having any issues with it.

SuperHitch SuperTruss Receiver Extension

Wayne
Reddog1
Explorer II
Jan 01, 2016
zcookiemonstar wrote:
... I read someplace if you have rear drum brakes that you can get rear wheel brake cylinders for a 3500 and they are bigger and improve braking.
This is true. Actually I think you can go with 1-1/16", 1-1/8", or 1-3/16". I think 15/16" is stock. The objective is more braking in the rear. It will not effect your ABS, if you have ABS. I think in about 1998 all 2500 Rams were upgraded from 15/16" to 1-1/16" from the factory.

Lots of info here: "dodge ram wheel cylinder upgrade"

Wayne
zcookiemonstar
Explorer
Jan 01, 2016
It looks like your front end is unloaded with the camper on the truck. Here is a pic of my truck when I picked up my camper. This is a stock suspension with the camper package and it sits level. It is a 5.9 gas auto so I don't have as much weight up front as you. The camper weight is 2580lbs. With the camper on it just touches my overload springs. Truck and camper (dry) weigh 8380lbs. No people or gear full tank of gas.

I read someplace if you have rear drum brakes that you can get rear wheel brake cylinders for a 3500 and they are bigger and improve braking.
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Jan 01, 2016
many 1000s of miles on this set up. 19.5s and a superhitch with a 48" super truss upper stable loads and airbags. I do like my new dually more though
Vinsil
Explorer
Jan 01, 2016
FYI...a superhitch/supertruss will cost $1000 give or take...if you install yourself like I think you will. These are new prices....