Help with my wheel hub please

[Godspeed999]

Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS.



Here's a good wheel -



What it looks like with the outer cap removed -



And the outer cap itself -



Here's my problem wheel -



I need help figuring out what parts I'm missing and where best to get them (ideally within Canada please for the sake of exchange rate and shipping....unless significantly cheaper from the U.S.

My RV dealer wants $19.95 for the plastic cap alone which I estimate is about 665% more than it should be haha!

I know I need the dust boot, but I also appear to be missing a hub "collar" of sorts that surrounds the hub nut and which the boot fits into.

[CKNSLS]

fairfaxjim wrote:
It looks like the angle of the picture is fooling some people.
That is an EZ-Lube cap with the rubber end plug missing. It sort of does look like a bearing race but is simply the rim that holds the rubber plug. The cotter pin is there too, nothing else is missing. The grease does look like a bit of moisture has gotten in there, possibly simply because the plug is missing. If the hub is loose, the bearings need to be looked at, meaning tear it all the way down.

As for the EZ-Lube feature, and all of it's copies out there, it is not and was not intended to be a replacement for annual serving and re-packing of wheel bearings.

I think people give the "EZ Lube" axles more credit than they deserve. You can't just grab a grease gun and run around your trailer pumping grease into the bearings. There is a specific procedure and it requires jacking the trailer wheel off of the ground and rotating it while greasing. This allows the grease to distribute evenly and also helps to prevent overpressurizing the inner grease seal and getting grease into the brakes. It takes a LOT of pressure to push grease from the zerk fitting through the axle, rear bearing, void between bearings and out through the front bearing. Rotating the wheel while you grease helps keep the grease in motion with a lot less pressure. You will find posts on here where people have pulled the hub/drum only to find grease has pushed through the lip seal between the hub and brakes, resulting in well lubed brake shoes.

Also, The EZ Lube feature is not intended to replace regular bearing maintenance. From the Dexter FAQ section of their website:
"E-Z LUBE - What is the E-Z Lube option?"
"The E-Z Lube option was designed specifically for the marine application where the axles are constantly being immersed in water. This feature provides a convenient method for purging the water from the hub cavity without having to pull the hub every time. The hubs should be removed every 12 months or 12,000 miles to inspect the bearings and it is imperative to replace the seal at this time to assure that the grease does not leak out the back onto the brake linings rendering the brakes non-functional."

I no longer use the EZ-Lube. I'm on my second trailer and in my 14th year of simply servicing the wheel bearings annually with no problems. I did use the EZ-Lube feature the first two years but now see no advantage to if for non-boat trailers. I do jack the wheels up and check them for looseness about half way through the season to make sure no problems are starting.

You can do what makes you comfortable. IMHO servicing the bearings annually is not needed, and for those who can't DIY it would be expensive-and again unneeded. The annual inspection and replacement of seals at 12,000 miles is a CYA that is published by the manufacturers. BTW-these very points I have made and you have mentioned as well have been beat to death on this board. One easy way to see if you have "functional brakes" is to pull the lever on your brake controller before one takes to the road. Something that should be done anyway to make sure you brakes are operating properly anyway each and every time.

[fairfaxjim]

It looks like the angle of the picture is fooling some people.
That is an EZ-Lube cap with the rubber end plug missing. It sort of does look like a bearing race but is simply the rim that holds the rubber plug. The cotter pin is there too, nothing else is missing. The grease does look like a bit of moisture has gotten in there, possibly simply because the plug is missing. If the hub is loose, the bearings need to be looked at, meaning tear it all the way down.

As for the EZ-Lube feature, and all of it's copies out there, it is not and was not intended to be a replacement for annual serving and re-packing of wheel bearings.

I think people give the "EZ Lube" axles more credit than they deserve. You can't just grab a grease gun and run around your trailer pumping grease into the bearings. There is a specific procedure and it requires jacking the trailer wheel off of the ground and rotating it while greasing. This allows the grease to distribute evenly and also helps to prevent overpressurizing the inner grease seal and getting grease into the brakes. It takes a LOT of pressure to push grease from the zerk fitting through the axle, rear bearing, void between bearings and out through the front bearing. Rotating the wheel while you grease helps keep the grease in motion with a lot less pressure. You will find posts on here where people have pulled the hub/drum only to find grease has pushed through the lip seal between the hub and brakes, resulting in well lubed brake shoes.

Also, The EZ Lube feature is not intended to replace regular bearing maintenance. From the Dexter FAQ section of their website:
"E-Z LUBE - What is the E-Z Lube option?"
"The E-Z Lube option was designed specifically for the marine application where the axles are constantly being immersed in water. This feature provides a convenient method for purging the water from the hub cavity without having to pull the hub every time. The hubs should be removed every 12 months or 12,000 miles to inspect the bearings and it is imperative to replace the seal at this time to assure that the grease does not leak out the back onto the brake linings rendering the brakes non-functional."

I no longer use the EZ-Lube. I'm on my second trailer and in my 14th year of simply servicing the wheel bearings annually with no problems. I did use the EZ-Lube feature the first two years but now see no advantage to if for non-boat trailers. I do jack the wheels up and check them for looseness about half way through the season to make sure no problems are starting.

[Huntindog]

CKNSLS wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:

Godspeed999 wrote:

MFL wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:
Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

Is that so? Interesting. I did find it curious that they cleaned them out and repacked them when there's a grease fitting right on them, but it sounded like a more thorough method of completing the job so I let them do it.

I'll stick to greasing them myself from now on. I can just squeeze new grease in and old grease/contaminants/water will be pushed out, correct?

Correct. Buy a $29.00 IR temperature gun at Harbor Freight. I check my hub temps at every stop. The hubs on the "sunny side" of the trailer will always run a little warmer. For some unknown reason(s)-some owners on here like to hand pack and mess with the tolerances when you can just use a grease gun. There are many videos online you can search to see exactly how the system works.

There is no doubt that hand packing , done correctly is the best way.
The grease gun method, though easier has it's downsides.
First it takes a LOT of grease to do it the first time. You need to fill the hub cavity entirely before the grease will start to come out.. You also need to rotate the wheel while pumping te grease in. This is because there is only one hole where fresh grease will exit and enter the beaing.. In order to get fresh grease into the entire bearing, it needs to rotate around the grease hole. And this is for the inner bearing. The outer bearing is next in line to get grease... The grease it will get first is the old grease that was pushed out of the inner bearing... The first time or two you do it, the outer bearing will likely get fresh grease from the hub cavity, but from then on, it will get used grease.. Unless you pump until all the old is expelled ( a lot of grease). If one does it often, then I suppose that the used grease the outer bearing is getting will be fresh enough.. What ever you do... Pump it in very slow. Going too fast risks blowing grease past the seals and onto the brakes.

I just recently got the EZ lube hubs and and still on the fence as to how I will do it.

So-what happens if you choose not to rotate the wheel? Won't the grease still get disbursed as the assembly turns going down the road?

NO.
If you do not rotate the wheel, you will have just a small spot of fresh grease in the bearing. Any excess fresh grease will flow into the hub cavity.
That small spot of fresh grease in the bearing will mix with the old grease as the bearing rotates on the road... But it being a very small percentage of the total grease in the bearing will have a minimal effect.

[CKNSLS]

Huntindog wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:

Godspeed999 wrote:

MFL wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:
Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

Is that so? Interesting. I did find it curious that they cleaned them out and repacked them when there's a grease fitting right on them, but it sounded like a more thorough method of completing the job so I let them do it.

I'll stick to greasing them myself from now on. I can just squeeze new grease in and old grease/contaminants/water will be pushed out, correct?

Correct. Buy a $29.00 IR temperature gun at Harbor Freight. I check my hub temps at every stop. The hubs on the "sunny side" of the trailer will always run a little warmer. For some unknown reason(s)-some owners on here like to hand pack and mess with the tolerances when you can just use a grease gun. There are many videos online you can search to see exactly how the system works.

There is no doubt that hand packing , done correctly is the best way.
The grease gun method, though easier has it's downsides.
First it takes a LOT of grease to do it the first time. You need to fill the hub cavity entirely before the grease will start to come out.. You also need to rotate the wheel while pumping te grease in. This is because there is only one hole where fresh grease will exit and enter the beaing.. In order to get fresh grease into the entire bearing, it needs to rotate around the grease hole. And this is for the inner bearing. The outer bearing is next in line to get grease... The grease it will get first is the old grease that was pushed out of the inner bearing... The first time or two you do it, the outer bearing will likely get fresh grease from the hub cavity, but from then on, it will get used grease.. Unless you pump until all the old is expelled ( a lot of grease). If one does it often, then I suppose that the used grease the outer bearing is getting will be fresh enough.. What ever you do... Pump it in very slow. Going too fast risks blowing grease past the seals and onto the brakes.

I just recently got the EZ lube hubs and and still on the fence as to how I will do it.

So-what happens if you choose not to rotate the wheel? Won't the grease still get disbursed as the assembly turns going down the road?

[Huntindog]

CKNSLS wrote:

Godspeed999 wrote:

MFL wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:
Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

Is that so? Interesting. I did find it curious that they cleaned them out and repacked them when there's a grease fitting right on them, but it sounded like a more thorough method of completing the job so I let them do it.

I'll stick to greasing them myself from now on. I can just squeeze new grease in and old grease/contaminants/water will be pushed out, correct?

Correct. Buy a $29.00 IR temperature gun at Harbor Freight. I check my hub temps at every stop. The hubs on the "sunny side" of the trailer will always run a little warmer. For some unknown reason(s)-some owners on here like to hand pack and mess with the tolerances when you can just use a grease gun. There are many videos online you can search to see exactly how the system works.

There is no doubt that hand packing , done correctly is the best way.
The grease gun method, though easier has it's downsides.
First it takes a LOT of grease to do it the first time. You need to fill the hub cavity entirely before the grease will start to come out.. You also need to rotate the wheel while pumping the grease in. This is because there is only one hole where fresh grease will exit and enter the beaing.. In order to get fresh grease into the entire bearing, it needs to rotate around the grease hole. And this is for the inner bearing. The outer bearing is next in line to get grease... The grease it will get first is the old grease that was pushed out of the inner bearing... The first time or two you do it, the outer bearing will likely get fresh grease from the hub cavity, but from then on, it will get used grease.. Unless you pump until all the old is expelled ( a lot of grease). If one does it often, then I suppose that the used grease the outer bearing is getting will be fresh enough.. What ever you do... Pump it in very slow. Going too fast risks blowing grease past the seals and onto the brakes.

I just recently got the EZ lube hubs and and still on the fence as to how I will do it.

[CKNSLS]

Godspeed999 wrote:

MFL wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:
Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

Is that so? Interesting. I did find it curious that they cleaned them out and repacked them when there's a grease fitting right on them, but it sounded like a more thorough method of completing the job so I let them do it.

I'll stick to greasing them myself from now on. I can just squeeze new grease in and old grease/contaminants/water will be pushed out, correct?

Correct. Buy a $29.00 IR temperature gun at Harbor Freight. I check my hub temps at every stop. The hubs on the "sunny side" of the trailer will always run a little warmer. For some unknown reason(s)-some owners on here like to hand pack and mess with the tolerances when you can just use a grease gun. There are many videos online you can search to see exactly how the system works.

[Godspeed999]

ralph day wrote:
Check out Taylorcoach if you're in Ontario. Can't beat custom made for you!

Ralph

I'll have a look. Thanks Ralph.

I didn't want to ask because I'm sure there's endless search results on "what trailer should I get?" but we are finding it surprisingly challenging to find the same/similar layout to ours in a new model. We do not need or want an outdoor kitchen and the four bunks (need 3 for sure) suit us perfectly.

[Godspeed999]

MFL wrote:

CKNSLS wrote:
Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

Is that so? Interesting. I did find it curious that they cleaned them out and repacked them when there's a grease fitting right on them, but it sounded like a more thorough method of completing the job so I let them do it.

I'll stick to greasing them myself from now on. I can just squeeze new grease in and old grease/contaminants/water will be pushed out, correct?

[MFL]

CKNSLS wrote:

Godspeed999 wrote:
Appreciate all the replies. And perhaps you're right, there's bigger problems behind this.

As I mentioned, the bearings were done last fall and we've probably done about 4000km this summer. (~2500mi)

I'll post back with further findings.

Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

I have always said the same. Unless an owner truly knows what he is doing, or has a competent mechanic, that he trusts to do the job right, hand packing bearings is just too important to let the kid, with his cap on backwards, and his pants falling down, do this important task.

Jerry

[CKNSLS]

Godspeed999 wrote:
Appreciate all the replies. And perhaps you're right, there's bigger problems behind this.

As I mentioned, the bearings were done last fall and we've probably done about 4000km this summer. (~2500mi)

I'll post back with further findings.

Here is yet another case where repacking the bearings did more harm than good. All that was needed was to lube the bearings with a gun and inspect the brakes. Instead repacking was done and caused problems and looks like what could be a major expense for the OP.

[ralph_day]

Check out Taylorcoach if you're in Ontario. Can't beat custom made for you!

Ralph

[Godspeed999]

Sorry for the delayed reply but I have just gotten around to addressing this. Jacked it up, grabbed the wheel and as so many of you suspected, it wiggles....and it's not the wheel nuts or castle nut. Appears to be bearings.

I'm mechanically competent to carry out the repair but short on the time required....as evidenced by my only getting back to this now. It's at the dealer awaiting repair. Shopping for a new trailer while it waits for its turn in the shop.....hopefully to teach it a lesson that by pulling **** like this it might be abandoned. Haha

**off topic but I can't find it and I know it's in this forum somewhere -- could someone point me to that "family tree" of rv manufacturers that essentially shows they're all made by a small handful of parent companies? Thanks

[SprinklerMan]

Jack up that wheel grab the tire and see if it wobbles , Looks like the bearings are bad .

[Godspeed999]

Appreciate all the replies. And perhaps you're right, there's bigger problems behind this.

As I mentioned, the bearings were done last fall and we've probably done about 4000km this summer. (~2500mi)

I'll post back with further findings.

[Huntindog]

Godspeed999 wrote:
Thanks for the subsequent replies while I was typing my response. I agree that the nut looks a bit off center. I had new bearings installed last fall but that doesn't mean it couldn't have failed.

Whoever did the bearing repack did it wrong. It looks to me like the spindle had been damaged by the bearing , which appears to have parts of it's cage where it should NOT be.. You may need a new axle when all is said and done, and you for sure need to have all of the bearings inspected by a competent mechanic.
.
Now is not the time to pinch pennies. It will just end up costing more in the long run