Hitch Extenders

[work2much]

I know this has been discussed more than once but search wasn't turning up results.

We have a Ram 3500 with a 2-1/2 inch receiver. Our TC extends approximately 36" past the trucks receiver box. We will be flat towing a Jeep Wrangler that should weight 4500 pounds or so.

I know many folks use a Torklift Supertruss. I was hoping to use the factory receiver with something like this and cut to length.


https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Reese/RP45018.html

I would add diagonal chain back to the truck frame similar to what the super truss has. Suggestions?

I am also looking for advice on the towing apparatus. So far Blue Ox seems to be common and well liked. I am also considering their patriot brake. Open to suggestions. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BRK2016-Brake-System/dp/B01LYA4FEV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541281724&...

[Paradox123]

work2much wrote:
OK, The extender has arrived. The stock holes are at 41" and 48" pin to pin. Using the 41" holes the receiver is still 6" past the back edge of the camper. I feel correct length will be 36"

Looking for advice from those who have flat towed. I assume that the hitch should be more or less flush to the back of the tow vehicle (camper). Is there any reason to leave it longer? I am fine with cutting it down and drilling a new hole. The holes in the extension and in the hitch don't align properly anyway.

Thanks again

Before you cut the bar, check the turning radius with the Jeep attached. I needed the full length of the stinger extension or the towed Jeep would run into the back of the camper on tight turns.

[Paradox123]

https://www.cooltechllc.com/ has a plug and play wiring system for JK and JL Jeeps. Makes wiring for your towed Jeep pretty simple.

[dunegoon1]

I fabricated an extended tow bar for my Honda car which has Blue OX hardware on the front instead of getting the extended hitch. While at it, I built an aluminum diamond plate deck on the tow bar so that we can conveniently step into the camper while stopped at rest areas and grocery shopping along the way. I believe the car tows better with the pivot point (the ball) closer to the rear axle of the truck. At about 5' over-all length, it is still small enough to stow in the cab of the truck when camping.

[work2much]

Bedlam wrote:

work2much wrote:

jimh425 wrote:
I cut mine short enough that I don't hit it when walking of the step.

I am also starting to wonder what the distance is between the camper and the jeep. Will the back storage tray pull out completely without hitting the jeep...

Maybe I will wait to cut/drill it until I have everything set up.

I could have used something closer to 36” for my setup, but 42” allows for the tray to fully open with my enclosed trailer attached.

Just ordered the tow bar. I am going to set everything up before modifying the extension. Having that tray come rolling out into the grill of our new Jeep would likely put me in a bad mood.

[Bedlam]

work2much wrote:

jimh425 wrote:
I cut mine short enough that I don't hit it when walking of the step.

I am also starting to wonder what the distance is between the camper and the jeep. Will the back storage tray pull out completely without hitting the jeep...

Maybe I will wait to cut/drill it until I have everything set up.

I could have used something closer to 36” for my setup, but 42” allows for the tray to fully open with my enclosed trailer attached.

[HarmsWay]

Different truck and camper but I installed an extension that was too long then in a parking lot did full crank turns each way to determine clearance. Keep in mind that if you go with the surge brake that clearance should be reduced by the compression of the brake mechanism which 3” or so.

[jimh406]

work2much wrote:
I am also starting to wonder what the distance is between the camper and the jeep. Will the back storage tray pull out completely without hitting the jeep...

Maybe I will wait to cut/drill it until I have everything set up.

Good idea.

[work2much]

jimh425 wrote:
I cut mine short enough that I don't hit it when walking of the step.

I am also starting to wonder what the distance is between the camper and the jeep. Will the back storage tray pull out completely without hitting the jeep...

Maybe I will wait to cut/drill it until I have everything set up.

[jimh406]

I cut mine short enough that I don't hit it when walking of the step.

[work2much]

OK, The extender has arrived. The stock holes are at 41" and 48" pin to pin. Using the 41" holes the receiver is still 6" past the back edge of the camper. I feel correct length will be 36"

Looking for advice from those who have flat towed. I assume that the hitch should be more or less flush to the back of the tow vehicle (camper). Is there any reason to leave it longer? I am fine with cutting it down and drilling a new hole. The holes in the extension and in the hitch don't align properly anyway.

Thanks again

[Ski_Pro_3]

work2much wrote:
That's a lot going on Ski Pro. The wiring coming from the surge brake part of the hitch in your pic. That is the LED dash light when the hitch arm moves that the company sort of eludes to on their website?

The light on your dash that lights up when the toads brake lights are engaged. Is that a different light that uses the toads tail light circuit wired from the towed to the truck?

The wiring from the Ready Brake are those red wires going into wire loom. Those go to the LED on my dash. But here's the thing; That light will light even if the cable from the Ready Brake that attaches to the towed vehicle's brake pedal isn't even connected and the brakes on the towed not applied. It only indicates the pressure from the towed vehicle is enough to actuate the braking mechanical lever enough to operate the micro switch that the wires attach to.
Because of that, I attached a light from my towed's actual brakes to the inside of the towed's windshield. When my towed's brakes are pressed, this light lights up. Flashes actually. I can see this in my rear view camera I have monitoring on my dash via my GPS screen that has an extra port for a 2nd video signal. So when I brake, I watch the monitor and look to see if the brakes are actually being applied. I can also compare this to the Ready Brake LED on my dash and can tell how much more braking it is taking to apply brakes compared to just activating the micro switch on the Ready Brake. The cable to my towed brake pedal from the Ready Brake has a small turn buckle on it. I can fine tune the point the towed's brakes engage this way. Optimally, my Ready Brake lights up slightly sooner, with less braking load, than the towed's brake lights light up. (observed via my camera/monitor to the light in the windshield of the towed vehicle)
Whew! Hope that all makes sense!

Other cables you see in the photo;
steel cable from the Ready Brake to the towed brake pedal. (looped back to my truck's bumper temporarily)
steel cable from the truck to the towed for emergency break away (also looped back to my truck's bumper temporarily)
7 Pin trailer wiring to socket via the black wire loom

[Ski_Pro_3]

mike/kellie wrote:
I can only respond to the braking system. I bought the Ready Brute with surge. I didn't want wiring going through the jeep. Brake, turn and tail lights are the magnetic type

I want to point out that using the Ready Brake/Brute system actually applies the brakes on the towed and the vehicle's brake lights will light without any other wiring. No key needs to be on. In fact, every vehicle is designed this way; brake lights light up when the brake pedal is pressed even with the key out. I realize this doesn't address running (night time) lights or turn signals, but just wanted to point out the redundancy of the brake lights when using the magnetic type.

[work2much]

That's a lot going on Ski Pro. The wiring coming from the surge brake part of the hitch in your pic. That is the LED dash light when the hitch arm moves that the company sort of eludes to on their website?

The light on your dash that lights up when the toads brake lights are engaged. Is that a different light that uses the toads tail light circuit wired from the towed to the truck?

[Ski_Pro_3]

My set-up is 39" long and consists of a 18" extension with welded on tabs for chains, a Ready Brake and ball receiver. I use it to flat tow behind my truck camper. I have a super hitch and use the bottom receiver hole. The turn buckles and the wobble stoppers keep everything very solid. The chain loops are used to attach my coiled tow cables. I have a break-away set-up where the towed's brakes are applied and locked if separated from my truck. I attached a light on my dash that lights up when the towed's brakes are applied enough to light it's brake lights. I set up the Ready Brake pretty tight, much like a trailer with brakes. A firm braking will light the light on my dash and I know the towed's brakes are being applied.

[work2much]

HarmsWay wrote:
First trip with our Ready Brake. So far about 2500 miles from BC down through Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Utah and Arizona. I think I picked the steepest roads. No issues with the tow other than I use more diesel on the hilly roads. I wired up a monitor that lights up an LED on the dash when the Jeep’s brake switch is activated. I saw it come on briefly once on a steep downhill when I downshifted aggressively with the exhaust brake on.

The surge brake does exactly what it should do once adjusted. Having the LED monitor makes the adjustment easier. It comes with a monitor switch on the surge brake to drive an LED but I wanted to know what the Jeep brake pedal was doing so I drive it from the brake switch.

I use a 12” 2.5” to 2” extension plus a 4” hitch riser (which has an additional 7” of extension) and I don’t have any lateral chains as that won’t work with the riser. If I can do some suspension work to eliminate the need for the riser then I may get a 16” or so extension made up with provision for lateral chains. Right now there is no way to anchor the chains on my 2014 Ram either. It doesn’t feel like the Jeep is wiggling back there but who knows. Well I guess the people following me know. I bought a clamp to attach my GoPro to the back of the camper ladder so I’ll know what’s going on when I start back to BC.

I also use an NSA De-Rattler at every hitch transion to stiffen the vertical play.

Nice. Thanks!