Hitch Height

I have found it is easier to tow and less sway if level with the tow vehicle.

There are also a number of adjustable ball mounts out there. While more expensive that a fixed mount, it will allow you to adjust it up/down to the height you need it.

You have it backwards, you want the trailer level or slightly nose down for best towing. It sounds like you're setup is perfect. Really though there are millions of trailers being towed and probably at least 1/4 of them are towed off level with no problems.

2 and 4 inch drop are fairly standard. Though I don't see haw flipping a 2 inch drop will only change your hitch height by 3/4 inch. It seems to me that it will change the height by 4 inches. 2 inches for the tube and 2 inches for the drop.

If you really want to see it you could go to Walmart and buy both the 2 and 4 inch hitches. Connect the trailer to each one and see what it looks liker. Then return the hitch that doesn't work for you.

pnspaces is correct. You are actually in the perfect configuration. You want the front lower than the back.

opnspaces wrote:
Though I don't see haw flipping a 2 inch drop will only change your hitch height by 3/4 inch. It seems to me that it will change the height by 4 inches. 2 inches for the tube and 2 inches for the drop.

Drop/rise is measured from the top of the tow vehicle receiver tube. A 2" drop puts the ball mount at the same elevation as the bottom of the receiver tube (assuming standard 2" tube). The same ball mount will give 3/4" rise above the top of the receiver tube when turned over because of the thickness of the metal.

After the axle flip on my pup, I had to get a 2-3/4" rise ball mount to get as close to level as I could. The goal is to get the trailer to tow as close to level as possible without going nose up.

As was posted, get an adjustable hitch. It will enable you to adjust for your camper/trailer needs, and for other towing needs as well.

When I first started out I didn't know any better and I had about three different "straight" hitches. I finally got tired of having to switch hitches and bought an adjustable. Problem solved.

Well, thanks for your input, everyone, but I'm towing an A-frame and apparently they don't follow the same rules as TTs and utility trailers. A-frames are supposed to be towed with the rear of the box 1"-2" lower than the front of the box. I'm just trying to figure out the best combination of ball mount and ball to accomplish this with my TV.

I am not sure how an A-frame changes the laws of physics, dynamic loading, weight distribution and other factors. Can you please elaborate on that or the source of the information? I just want to make sure I understand so I don't give out bad advice in the future.

I tow our TT level with a WD hitch but the PUP sits nose up with 2 inch ball from Wal-Mart. Never had a problem.

From the aliner manual
Your high quality coupler needs no adjusting or maintenance other than periodic oiling to ensure smooth
operation. All models use a coupler that receives a 2” ball.

Set the hitch height of the tow vehicle so that the trailer is being pulled in a horizontal position. The height
listed below is the optimal height after the tongue weight is resting on the hitch. Trailers must be towed
as level as possible for proper handling and weight distribution.
The Classic, Ranger, Scout, Sport, and Alite
Set ball height ~14” from ground to bottom of ball.
Set ball height ~17” from ground to top of ball.
Off Road and High Wall option
Set ball height ~18” from ground to bottom of ball.
Set ball height ~21” from ground to top of ball.
Expedition, Titanium
Set ball height ~19” from ground to bottom of ball.
Set ball height ~22” from ground to top of ball.