Hitch setup recomendation

To the OP, when you say sway, do you mean a back and forth oscillation? Or do you mean the wind and passing vehicles pushes you around a little? The first is what I would call sway, the 2nd is more normal and will be reduced by a more HD vehicle or a better sway control device. If you have a back and forth oscillation that gets worse with speed and seems unrelated to other influences such as wind or passing vehicles, you need to get that fixed first, which is usually caused by too light of tongue weight. It can be dangerous and you need to fix it.

Clarify what you mean by sway, and you can be better helped by the others here.

The Equalizer is still around and a good hitch, I have not used one. As was already mentioned, your Reese system could possibly be converted to the Reese Dual Cam system, which is also very good. That is what I use. The one thing I don't like about the Reese system is the way the cam arms mount to the trailer frame. It is a poor design and many have issues with it. I had to reinforce mine, I also had to start using Vaseline on the cams with my new heavier trailer. It works great now. Even when I was having an issue with the mounts, the trailer tracked really well behind my Suburban.

As others have said, establish the fore-aft weight balance first then lets talk about WDHs and sway. The trailer has to be properly balanced before the anti-sway measures are implemented.

If you have sway, you have something wrong. Fancy hitches can mask this effect, but a truck and trailer combo should not sway. The people that built your pickup do not even require a WD hitch for that model. Get the trailer balance right, everything under its maximum ratings, and good general condition before worrying about what hitch will control sway best. Then, buy whatever hitch appeals to you.

If you are adjusted correctly, you shouldn't get sway. I pull a 36' with a Ram 2500. I don't get sway under ideal conditions, like no wind and no passing trucks, but I do use 2 friction bars. These eliminate probably 95% of action from passing vehicles and crosswinds.

APT wrote:
You may be able to upgrade that Reese system to a dual cam for less than a whole new EQ 4-pt. Both systems have many happy owners.

Here is the dual cam system:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP26002.html

You may be able to upgrade that Reese system to a dual cam for less than a whole new EQ 4-pt. Both systems have many happy owners.

for sway control, typically the rule of thumb is friction bars for under 26'. Over 26' you want integrated sway control. Reese dual cam, Reese strait line, or equal-i-zer should do just fine for you. I would get 1200 lb bars. If you want to go high end there is the propride or the Hensley arrow.

As mentioned above the sway you have is probably related to loading. Ideal tongue weight is 13-15% of loaded tt weight. Do yourself a favor and hit the scales before you go looking into a new hitch. Go to Cat scales to find a local one. Have truck front axle on scale pad 1, rear axle on scale pad 2, and both tt axles on scale pad 3. Get 3 weights, one of just truck no tt. One of tv + tt no wdh and one of tv+tt with wdh. Ideally, you will find your loaded tongue weight to be within that 13-15% margin, otherwise you need to move cargo around to achieve that goal. Your other goal is to dial the hitch in to have your tv front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. Try this and see if you need a new hitch first.

I'm pulling 8200lb with a 2008 2500 HD; NO sway bar, no sway.

If your tongue weight is about 1000 lb (13% of 8000)there shouldn't be any sway to control.


Stu