Honda Generators for Air conditioning

[paul_judd]

I have a 30 foot Kit Companion bumper pull trailer we just bought. I want to buy a Honda Generator to run air conditioner. I think it is 13,500 BTUs. Wondering if the smaller Honda 2,000 will handle the air conditioner? Any thoughts? Suggestions?

[pianotuna]

Hi,

If I need to use the air conditioner when staying in one spot, I head for a cheap campground instead when ever that is possible.

I'd still love to beef up the solar system to the point of being able to run the air conditioner for six hours a day.

[TNRIVERSIDE]

SoundGuy wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
The trick to running the air/con is it takes 2-3times the power to get the compressor turning. Once it's turning, it takes far less to keep it turning. That's why it looks like the 9-11amps the air/con is rated to draw should work but it really needs more like 20-30amps to get it going.

SoundGuy wrote:
Repeated often but a misconception for sure ... initial compressor lockup current draw, referred to as Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), typically runs ~ 60 amps for a 13,500 BTU A/C. Sure, the time involved is brief, too quick for any DVM to see it, but it is real and it is what will task any 2K genset.

valhalla360 wrote:
You are arguing technicalities when you basically said the same thing.

Of course we're debating technicalities, that's the whole point. :S A typical 13.5K BTU A/C does not draw just 20 to 30 amps on startup but in fact what is called it's LRA which is typically in the 60 amp range.

Yes there are tricks to help such as getting the fan going first and you can put a capacitor in to help with the surge but any way you slice it that little 2000w unit is being pushed to the limits.

Exactly what I've always said BUT there's FAR more that one can do to help ensure success in starting a typical 13.5K BTU A/C with a 2000 watt genset, the first being to pick the right 2K genset as they're not all equal. IMO Honda's EU2000i holds the trump card here because it can successfully meet it's surge rating (and beyond in actual testing) for up to a half hour, far longer than any competing unit in this class. Yes, adding a hard start cap will in most cases also really help but simply starting just the fan first, then the compressor is the simpleton approach ... instead wire the thermostat with a fan switch that has a centre off position and one can then start just the A/C compressor, then add the fan load once the compressor has ramped up to speed and stabilized. Further, switching genset dino oil for a quality synth oil like Mobil 1 can really help a marginalized 2K genset meet that initial load demand much more easily, as I've clearly demonstrated to myself on multiple occasions with two different EU2000i gensets. Obviously, in any given situation there's not much one can do about the effects of elevation on a genset other than ensure it's running the appropriate main jet for that particular air density and not much one can do about increasing outside ambient temperatures that cause A/C head pressure to also increase and therefore increase starting load but regardless, the devil is in those details you call "technicalities" which often can be improved upon and will often spell the difference between failure and success. Been there. 😉

Good post. We should copy this for the next time this comes up.

[SoundGuy]

valhalla360 wrote:
The trick to running the air/con is it takes 2-3times the power to get the compressor turning. Once it's turning, it takes far less to keep it turning. That's why it looks like the 9-11amps the air/con is rated to draw should work but it really needs more like 20-30amps to get it going.

SoundGuy wrote:
Repeated often but a misconception for sure ... initial compressor lockup current draw, referred to as Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), typically runs ~ 60 amps for a 13,500 BTU A/C. Sure, the time involved is brief, too quick for any DVM to see it, but it is real and it is what will task any 2K genset.

valhalla360 wrote:
You are arguing technicalities when you basically said the same thing.

Of course we're debating technicalities, that's the whole point. :S A typical 13.5K BTU A/C does not draw just 20 to 30 amps on startup but in fact what is called it's LRA which is typically in the 60 amp range.

Yes there are tricks to help such as getting the fan going first and you can put a capacitor in to help with the surge but any way you slice it that little 2000w unit is being pushed to the limits.

Exactly what I've always said BUT there's FAR more that one can do to help ensure success in starting a typical 13.5K BTU A/C with a 2000 watt genset, the first being to pick the right 2K genset as they're not all equal. IMO Honda's EU2000i holds the trump card here because it can successfully meet it's surge rating (and beyond in actual testing) for up to a half hour, far longer than any competing unit in this class. Yes, adding a hard start cap will in most cases also really help but simply starting just the fan first, then the compressor is the simpleton approach ... instead wire the thermostat with a fan switch that has a centre off position and one can then start just the A/C compressor, then add the fan load once the compressor has ramped up to speed and stabilized. Further, switching genset dino oil for a quality synth oil like Mobil 1 can really help a marginalized 2K genset meet that initial load demand much more easily, as I've clearly demonstrated to myself on multiple occasions with two different EU2000i gensets. Obviously, in any given situation there's not much one can do about the effects of elevation on a genset other than ensure it's running the appropriate main jet for that particular air density and not much one can do about increasing outside ambient temperatures that cause A/C head pressure to also increase and therefore increase starting load but regardless, the devil is in those details you call "technicalities" which often can be improved upon and will often spell the difference between failure and success. Been there. 😉

[phillyg]

I have a 3000i that can barely handle a 13,500 AC.

[TomG2]

valhalla360 wrote:
.....snip........
Yes there are tricks to help such as getting the fan going first and you can put a capacitor in to help with the surge but any way you slice it that little 2000w unit is being pushed to the limits.

Doesn't 11.0 amps equal about 1320 watts? Yes, it gets a little exciting for the first couple of seconds, but my 13.5k btu Dometic draws about 10.5 amps when running. If that is "pushing it to the limits" then that's what I do. After ten years of intermittent use, the Honda still runs perfectly. I do manage other current demands, as noted.

[colliehauler]

I would go with a 3k or larger, personal opinion.

[2oldman]

OP?

[valhalla360]

SoundGuy wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
The trick to running the air/con is it takes 2-3times the power to get the compressor turning. Once it's turning, it takes far less to keep it turning. That's why it looks like the 9-11amps the air/con is rated to draw should work but it really needs more like 20-30amps to get it going.

Repeated often but a misconception for sure ... initial compressor lockup current draw, referred to as Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), typically runs ~ 60 amps for a 13,500 BTU A/C. Sure, the time involved is brief, too quick for any DVM to see it, but it is real and it is what will task any 2K genset. As for starting and powering such an A/C I have successfully and repeatedly done it with two different A/Cs, two different Honda EU2000i gensets BUT there are tricks to it. Anyone who wants to just plug in and have it work every time under all conditions should look for a larger capacity genset ... either that or replace the A/C with a lower draw unit of the same capacity - most manufacturers now offer them, including the new Atwood Air Command series which includes the 16K version the manufacturer calls "2000 watt generator friendly".

You are arguing technicalities when you basically said the same thing. Basicaly with 20-30amps, it will get going just not as quickly. If it's too slow to start turning, the current stays high and the generator over current switch will cut the power to protect the generator.

Yes there are tricks to help such as getting the fan going first and you can put a capacitor in to help with the surge but any way you slice it that little 2000w unit is being pushed to the limits.

[Sondy132001]

I have the Honda generator eu6500is and it runs everything in my TT even my AC and quiet.

S

[TomG2]

The first time I tried it, I was disappointed. Then I realized the converter was drawing about 500 watts as well as the refrigerator. The Honda 2000 is not a 3,000 watt power source. If you don't want to do the testing, measuring, or have the inclination to manage your electrical usage, it won't work for sure. That's why they make 3,500 watt and larger generators. If it REALLY has to work then go big or stay home. When I want a thirty minute cool down for lunch or a nap while traveling, my 2000i does just fine.

[hawkeye-08]

Works for some, not for others. Dad had a Honda 2000i and it worked in his driveway but often would not when camping (sometimes in the mountains). He sold that one and got a Honda 3000i and it always worked. He even had a platform built on back of trailer to carry generator and gas with locking cage. Worked well for many years, he traded to toy hauler and it has builtin generator that runs AC fine.

I bought Honda 3000i and have never have had any trouble running AC.

[Huntindog]

What is boils down to is how bad do you want AC?

As tempertures go up, so does the AC current draw, and at the same time the generator loses power with higher temps. So a "test" in the driveway really means nothing. If you go with a 2000, then it may some day not work for you when you REALLY want it to.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

If you get a Hybrid inverter then a 2k generator will run the air conditioner just fine and you can use eco mode.

[TomG2]

Mine generally use 10-11 amps when operating in hot weather at 1,000 ft elevation with other things turned off. That will not destroy the Honda 2000.

[xteacher]

Two Hondas in parallel will give you enough power, and they're lighter to carry (each separately, of course), than one bigger generator.