hooking up a battery

[scwerl3]

I have a 1989 Rockwood Pop up (tent) camper and I want to get it set up to put a battery on. It looks like there was a battery at one time but the wires are cut. I didnt trace them back yet to see for sure, but will be able to check that next weekend.
Anyway, the wires that are there and cut are a black one, a white one, and then there is like a connector where a black one and green one are run into it together. (I hope that made sense). I should have taken a picture but wasnt thinking and I store it about 30 miles from home right now.
Anyone know how to get this set up to run on a battery and if there is a suggestion on a solar charger what would I need?
I don't want to spend a ton of money, but would really like the option of the lights on at night.
There is a little dorm room electric refrigerator (former owner put that in) that would be nice to use. I am thinking the fridge would run down the battery too much tho maybe?
And how long would I be able to get the furnace to run off a battery if I only used the furnace and lights? The fridge is a perk, so I can work around that, thats what coolers are for right? And the lights I do have lanterns, so that could be an optional thing too. But sometimes I like to camp late into the year and would like to maybe have the furnace be able to run.
Sorry for the long post, but any help would be great!
Thanks!

[bondebond]

You can actually tear into the furnace quite a bit with the proper knowledge.

I just found the Atwood Mobile Service Training Manuals PDF when looking for something else. It covers ALL of the Atwood products and is quite technical but written such that regular folks can read it and understand.

The troubleshooting section for the furnaces is quite extensive. Between that and the exploded diagrams and parts lists, I think you have a clear path to disassemble and reassemble just about everything they sell.

Chances are, you have an Atwood 7900 Everest series furnace but you'll need to confirm.

[scwerl3]

teejaywhy...can you sort of 'draw' a diagram or take a picture of the wiring for yours? That sounds like what I have on this camper, but its all cut off and I will have to connect to it again.

bondebond... the furnace will start, and maybe a half minute later the clicking will start... sometimes it lasts a few mintues, sometimes not. It doesnt really seem to have a rhyme or reason as to when it does it. To me it really sounds like its something bouncing around in there. Can I take things apart to see if there is something floating around in there and not have to worry about some spring flying out? I am thinking if I can take off a panel or something to get a look (and a picture) inside I can get some better awswers. Will things fit back together if I do this? or is there springs or pressure things that I would be able to get back into place.
Sorry if I ramble, my technical language for this probably makes things much more difficult to help you all understand.

[teejaywhy]

On my Jayco, there are two wires on the + battery terminal. A black wire with an in-line 30A fuse that goes to the converter, and a green wire that goes to the breakaway switch for the brakes.

[bondebond]

The change in volume of the sound is a bit puzzling but otherwise I would have said it is likely the electric piezo ignitor trying to light the gas.

During the same run cycle, does it happen only at the beginning and then stop and then come back? Can you pinpoint when it does and doesn't occur? I'm very curious to know if it starts during the beginning of the cycle or elsewhere in the same heating cycle. This may help indicate if it's the ignitor or something loose rattling around in there.

[scwerl3]

bondebond wrote:
On the furnace, are you talking about a single click when it the furnace comes on or a repetitive clicking throughout the cycle? If it is the single click when it comes on, that is the sail switch activating and allowing the gas to flow to the ignitor. There is no problem nor no way that I am aware of to silence the clicking sound. It is part of the design.

Its a continuous clicking, and sometimes its louder than other times but its pretty loud either way.

[bondebond]

On the furnace, are you talking about a single click when it the furnace comes on or a repetitive clicking throughout the cycle? If it is the single click when it comes on, that is the sail switch activating and allowing the gas to flow to the ignitor. There is no problem nor no way that I am aware of to silence the clicking sound. It is part of the design.

We generally camp with 120v power when it is cold enough to require the furnace. Recently, overnights were in the mid 30s. I had the furnace set as a backup to the two electric heaters in case they couldn't keep up. Combined with some upgraded weather stripping I installed, the furnace never came on and the heaters were significantly quieter than the furnace. I ran one heater from the onboard 120v service and the other heater through a heavy gauge extension cord from the power post.

I would highly recommend one or more electric heaters as it also saves on LP usage.

If you do not have 120v service, then you're looking at getting accustomed to the furnace or supplementing in some other fashion as you mentioned. I can't think of any other supplemental heating (not powered by 120v) that doesn't consume O2 or produce carbon dioxide/carbon monoxide (in a worst case scenario) and water vapor inside the living space. The combustion, even a catalytic process, happens inside the PUP with you.

[scwerl3]

I think the model number is 1761. The camper box is about 9 feet and few inches long and about 6 feet 6 inches wide. I will get some pictures in the next week and post them here so you can see what I am working with.
Another thing is that the furnace as a 'click' that goes on when its running. I sounds like there is like a pebble in the fan or something and it's hard to sleep through. I dont really know much about doing stuff with the furnace, but if I can fix it myself I would rather do that with my dad's help. (He is a smart guy, just not sure on the procedure of this exact issue). I guess if I have to replace the furnace down the road I was thinking of one of those radiant catalytic style ones. I am just not sure how that all would be for use in a Pop Up where its all one area. I dont want to have the gas kill me or something.
Sorry I am so sketchy with this, I will get the info I can this week. And I really appreciate all your help!

[scwerl3]

the converter box is located close to the floor but looks much different from what you have pictured. the model number (i think) is 1761 at least that is the number on the outside of it. When I get it popped up this next weekend I will take pictures of everything I can think of so I can help you help me with this. Much appreciate the help!

[JLTN_James]

bondebond wrote:
Sorry I missed busting you, JLTN_James. 2oldman and RoyB are on the job.

I still gave you credit, kind of ;).

[bondebond]

All good info. Sorry I missed busting you, JLTN_James. 2oldman and RoyB are on the job.

This one had me scratching my head until I got home last night to verify how mine was wired. It seems I'm switching too much between wiring the shop to suit and projects on the PUP to keep them straight from pure memory.

I stood for a couple of minutes in front of the new 120v 30 amp outlet I added in the shop for the PUP before I came to on the wiring. It's not the years...it's the miles.

[RoyB]

If the BLACK and WHITE cables are the same slightly size then those are the main battery cables. You should be able to hand trace the WHITE CABLE back to a main trailer frame connection near the battery terminals... The BLACK CABLE should go all the way back to the CONVERTER CHASSIS which is probably an ELIXIR model. I need to look at some 1989 ROCKWOOD interior photos to see what is mounted in the cabinets. If I had the model number hopefully I can find similar photos of your trailer on the internet to look at.

You should have an converter close to the floor and probably looks like this.



The additional wires on my batteries are for the electric lift assy for my top. Some other trailers may have an electric tongue jack. We will probably need to hand trace those other wires at the battery and see where they go before hooking them up.

Pass along the model number of your 1989 POPUP... Depending how big it is will determine if it has electric brakes and what is installed inside... All the 12VDC items inside will run from the CONVERTER when plugged into shore power or from the BATTERY if you had one.



ALso if the trailer has electric brakes you really should get the battery installed as this is DOT SAFETY REQUIRMENT (Actually an state law) you should have on-board and working. The trailer battery is what will lock up your electric brakes if you are pulling the trailer and it becomes disconnected from the truck while being towed. You may have noticed a small chain coming from the BREAKAWAY SWITCH if you have ever hooked up to the trailer and towed it.

We all need a little more info on the trailer to provide good info for you...

Roy Ken

[RoyB]

Being from the real OLD SCHOOL I always put my BLACK cable to frame ground haha... Can't teach old dogs new tricks...

[JLTN_James]

Thanks RoyB for the correction. My post above has been edited.

I can always rely on you and/or Bondebond to help when I get my wires crossed!!!

(Pun completely and fully intended):S

[scwerl3]

So I should just deal with the black and white and the other set must be something else. Do I need to put a fuse in the wiring to the battery? (Read somewhere about having to do that.) Thanks for the info so far. I've looked around at different places but wasn't sure if the green and black wires were something different on this particular camper.