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Hot Shot Secret

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ok guys, Here it is in a nut shell. My 6.0 is a little sluggish and has a little rough idle. I had a small issue with the popping and missing when under a decent pull. I pulled the egr valve and cleaned and solved that problem. I changed oil yesterday @145K miles and added 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret. Tractor Supply now carrys it and a friend of mine gave it a try and liked the results. I know a few of you will cry Snake Oil and don't care. I will let you know what it if anything changes.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds
18 REPLIES 18

FishOnOne
Nomad
Nomad
Thanks for the update. :B
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
Quick update as I said I would. Have put about 2600 miles on since oil change and truck is running much smoother. Turbo seems to spool up faster and engine is quite on interstate. So far I am impressed.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bird Freak wrote:
BenK wrote:
Admit and apologize for my misunderstanding on this topic

Am NOT a diesel person. Did look at jumping over, but decided against it when
all my reading indicated a huge freight train coming down the tracks. SMOG and
all of the regulatory requirements back in the late 90's and early 2000's

But, still unclear on how all of this engine oil gets on the injectors. Otherwise,
to me, why isn't there an oil consumption issue?

Why thought this product was added to the fuel via the fuel tank...and the issues
with the CP4 exacerbated

Accept that and am wondering. Do understand blow by, but in the other direction...

Into the engine oil, not engine oil misting up to the injectors. Not arguing, as
this seems to be the case.

Oh well, I'll stop on this and try to find some reading material to educate
myself on this
Not a problem. I was just trying to figure out if you just liked to argue with folks are you had no idea what you were talking about. Glad it wasn't the argue thing. I guess grammar and sentence structure is different for you. LOL. Sorry, could not help myself! Side note here, I am in Fla. now and the truck is running smoother and turbo seems to come up quicker. We will see when I get more miles on it.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sorry double post.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

Hank85713
Explorer
Explorer
Ben K the oil in the ford is used to activate the injectors. There is a hpop fuel pump in 7.3, 6.0 engines. It was intially designed by the folks at Cat and was leading edge for the time. Now the CP pumps are what provide the fuel pressure for the new common rail systems like the gm and dodge and now ford uses.

This product is used to clean the cylinder bores as it were of the fuel injectors that are OIL PRESSURIZED by the hpop.

hone_eagle
Explorer
Explorer
Ben believe they are discussing HUEI injectors ,they use engine oil as a hydraulic agent to 'fire' or energize the injection event.
2005 Volvo 670 singled freedomline 12 speed
Newmar 34rsks 2008
Hensley trailersaver TSLB2H
directlink brake controller

-when overkill is cheaper-

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Admit and apologize for my misunderstanding on this topic

Am NOT a diesel person. Did look at jumping over, but decided against it when
all my reading indicated a huge freight train coming down the tracks. SMOG and
all of the regulatory requirements back in the late 90's and early 2000's

But, still unclear on how all of this engine oil gets on the injectors. Otherwise,
to me, why isn't there an oil consumption issue?

Why thought this product was added to the fuel via the fuel tank...and the issues
with the CP4 exacerbated

Accept that and am wondering. Do understand blow by, but in the other direction...

Into the engine oil, not engine oil misting up to the injectors. Not arguing, as
this seems to be the case.

Oh well, I'll stop on this and try to find some reading material to educate
myself on this
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BoKnows
Explorer
Explorer
Alright, I work for Hot Shots, not gonna try to promote the product, just gonna answer the questions at hand. The Stiction Eliminator is mainly a detergent for the oil, it will clean out any burned on, varnish like, oil on the spool valves of the injectors. The Friction Reducer is also an oil additive, but it will just enhance the lubricating properties of the oil.

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
Bird Freak wrote:
I don't see your point here on changing the oil yesterday. That is when I put the stuff in. That would have been the 12th today is the 13th. Your point was? Also the stiction eliminator says nothing about the stuff you stated on their website or on my bottle about added lubrication. I don't think you have your facts straight.

* This post was edited 07/13/14 01:22pm by Bird Freak *



Grammar and sentence structure at my end must be very different than at your end...
Reading on my part told me that you change and added their ENGINE OIL treatment

Followed your link down to this at HotShot:

http://www.hotshotsecret.com/shop/friction-reducer/


the stuff I use will ruin any thing with 'friction' materials (automatic, LS, etc)
But HotShot can be...so not in the same class as MolyB or Tungsten


Recommended for ALL gas & diesel engines...'The Science Button'
hotshot wrote:
Use at a rate of 5% Friction Reducer. However, if you are interested in seal and O-ring protection, use Friction Reducer at 7.5%. Do not exceed this dosage. You can use Friction Reducer to treat any oil-lubricated system except air conditioning and aircraft. Even though Friction Reducer is an industrial product, you’ll find that small two cycle engines love it. Just add Friction Reducer to your oil before mixing it with the fuel. Your automobile, light truck or other personal vehicles will benefit from Friction Reducer in the engine, power steering unit, automatic or manual transmission and differential. The Ford Power Stroke 6.0 liter requires 1.5 quarts of Friction Reducer to make the transmission shift smoother and more efficiently.
Stiction Eliminator is put in the oil.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Bird Freak wrote:
I don't see your point here on changing the oil yesterday. That is when I put the stuff in. That would have been the 12th today is the 13th. Your point was? Also the stiction eliminator says nothing about the stuff you stated on their website or on my bottle about added lubrication. I don't think you have your facts straight.

* This post was edited 07/13/14 01:22pm by Bird Freak *



Grammar and sentence structure at my end must be very different than at your end...
Reading on my part told me that you change and added their ENGINE OIL treatment

Followed your link down to this at HotShot:

http://www.hotshotsecret.com/shop/friction-reducer/


the stuff I use will ruin any thing with 'friction' materials (automatic, LS, etc)
But HotShot can be...so not in the same class as MolyB or Tungsten


Recommended for ALL gas & diesel engines...'The Science Button'
hotshot wrote:
Use at a rate of 5% Friction Reducer. However, if you are interested in seal and O-ring protection, use Friction Reducer at 7.5%. Do not exceed this dosage. You can use Friction Reducer to treat any oil-lubricated system except air conditioning and aircraft. Even though Friction Reducer is an industrial product, you’ll find that small two cycle engines love it. Just add Friction Reducer to your oil before mixing it with the fuel. Your automobile, light truck or other personal vehicles will benefit from Friction Reducer in the engine, power steering unit, automatic or manual transmission and differential. The Ford Power Stroke 6.0 liter requires 1.5 quarts of Friction Reducer to make the transmission shift smoother and more efficiently.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
Bird Freak wrote:
Ok guys, Here it is in a nut shell. My 6.0 is a little sluggish and has a little rough idle. I had a small issue with the popping and missing when under a decent pull. I pulled the egr valve and cleaned and solved that problem.

I changed oil yesterday @145K miles and added 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret.

Tractor Supply now carrys it and a friend of mine gave it a try and liked the results. I know a few of you will cry Snake Oil and don't care. I will let you know what it if anything changes.


and

Bird Freak wrote:
snip...

I have already

changed the oil and put this stuff in

. I will wait and see what happens with it. If nothing I will try your way and get back with you. I also leave tonight to pick up another project car and will run about 1K miles.


and


hotshot wrote:

Heat and friction silently steal power from your diesel engine. The scientists from LSI Institute have uncovered a powerful lubricity agent…Hot Shot’s Secret Friction Reducer. One treatment of Friction Reducer to your oil and your diesel will run cooler and increase towing power. Negatively charged synthetic ester tenaciously attaches to all internal parts completely lubricating your diesel engine.



PS...(my comments) this is pure marketing verbiage...no technical
stuff at all, other than a buzz word like 'ester'

Truth in that 'heat and friction' does steal power, but how do they
negate that and if so, how much? If 0.01% reduction...I'm not going to
spend any $$$ on that little to no gain


See above bolded in red...
I don't see your point here on changing the oil yesterday. That is when I put the stuff in. That would have been the 12th today is the 13th. Your point was? Also the stiction eliminator says nothing about the stuff you stated on their website or on my bottle about added lubrication. I don't think you have your facts straight.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Bird Freak wrote:
Ok guys, Here it is in a nut shell. My 6.0 is a little sluggish and has a little rough idle. I had a small issue with the popping and missing when under a decent pull. I pulled the egr valve and cleaned and solved that problem.

I changed oil yesterday @145K miles and added 2 qts of Hot Shot Secret.

Tractor Supply now carrys it and a friend of mine gave it a try and liked the results. I know a few of you will cry Snake Oil and don't care. I will let you know what it if anything changes.


and

Bird Freak wrote:
snip...

I have already

changed the oil and put this stuff in

. I will wait and see what happens with it. If nothing I will try your way and get back with you. I also leave tonight to pick up another project car and will run about 1K miles.


and


hotshot wrote:

Heat and friction silently steal power from your diesel engine. The scientists from LSI Institute have uncovered a powerful lubricity agent…Hot Shot’s Secret Friction Reducer. One treatment of Friction Reducer to your oil and your diesel will run cooler and increase towing power. Negatively charged synthetic ester tenaciously attaches to all internal parts completely lubricating your diesel engine.



PS...(my comments) this is pure marketing verbiage...no technical
stuff at all, other than a buzz word like 'ester'

Truth in that 'heat and friction' does steal power, but how do they
negate that and if so, how much? If 0.01% reduction...I'm not going to
spend any $$$ on that little to no gain


See above bolded in red...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
What is this stuff supposed to do?

Am always interested in IP, but will dissect it before jumping in

Is it in the super lube, self plating category like molybdenum disulfide and
tungsten disulfide?

Or is it in the plastic category like Slick50?...oh, just found their page and
it is not a polymer, so answers that.

Yes, read your links all the way to their link, but nothing on engine oil other
than it's a ester

Stuff has to be in context or worthless or a negative.

Like the DLC on the CP4 pump discussion where I found that Bosch engineers used
DLC only on one surface where the lube is diesel fuel.

Out of context using DLC in there with a very poor lube like diesel.

Missed is that diamond is one of the best non-stick and thermal conductors known
to mankind (that I know of).

Meaning that a poor lube will have poor film strength (tensile) on regular metal
surfaces (wet it). Worse yet on the best non-stick known to mankind. So NO lube
is filmed on the DLC cam of the CP4 pump. ZERO lube...unless there is treatment
or additive I'm not aware of

Marry that with the unknown 'slipperiness' of DLC surface for a metal cam follower
to run on...

One of the purposes of engine oil is to keep it from going metal on metal by
providing a film of oil for the parts to 'float' on. How does this secret stuff
assist or improve on that?

I know how Molyb, Tungsten and graphite does that, but want to know what their
secret stuff is or how it does it's job on that
It was designed to clean sticky injectors and turbos. Not any type of coating or lube enhancer.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
What is this stuff supposed to do?

Am always interested in IP, but will dissect it before jumping in

Is it in the super lube, self plating category like molybdenum disulfide and
tungsten disulfide?

Or is it in the plastic category like Slick50?...oh, just found their page and
it is not a polymer, so answers that.

Yes, read your links all the way to their link, but nothing on engine oil other
than it's a ester

Stuff has to be in context or worthless or a negative.

Like the DLC on the CP4 pump discussion where I found that Bosch engineers used
DLC only on one surface where the lube is diesel fuel.

Out of context using DLC in there with a very poor lube like diesel.

Missed is that diamond is one of the best non-stick and thermal conductors known
to mankind (that I know of).

Meaning that a poor lube will have poor film strength (tensile) on regular metal
surfaces (wet it). Worse yet on the best non-stick known to mankind. So NO lube
is filmed on the DLC cam of the CP4 pump. ZERO lube...unless there is treatment
or additive I'm not aware of

Marry that with the unknown 'slipperiness' of DLC surface for a metal cam follower
to run on...

One of the purposes of engine oil is to keep it from going metal on metal by
providing a film of oil for the parts to 'float' on. How does this secret stuff
assist or improve on that?

I know how Molyb, Tungsten and graphite does that, but want to know what their
secret stuff is or how it does it's job on that
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...