How often do you cange oil if little us
I am looking at getting a truck and TC. The truck will not be a DD. Some months it will barely be used. Oil changes?
Forum Discussion
Winged One wrote:
nomad297 wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
residual combustion byproducts which made it past the rings laying around eating away at your oil pan, filter and even bearing surfaces
I thought that the PCV system would keep this from happening? Or should I say PVC so you know what I'm talking about? Have you ever heard of a PCV valve?
Bruce
Oils
Combustion
Thank you. I already know that stuff, though. I was just giving Gdetrailer a little "rub."
Brucenomad297 wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
residual combustion byproducts which made it past the rings laying around eating away at your oil pan, filter and even bearing surfaces
I thought that the PCV system would keep this from happening? Or should I say PVC so you know what I'm talking about? Have you ever heard of a PCV valve?
Bruce
Oils
CombustionTurtle n Peeps wrote:
For those of you that just change your oil out just for something to do. Have you ever done an oil analysis to see if it really needs changing?
It's a rhetorical question because if you did you would learn that you oil is fine.
But it's your money, your time, do what you want. :)
Getting an oil analysis is like going to the doctor asking if it was OK to eat fried food your whole life! then continuing to do so because the analysis came back OK. Instead of just starting out healthy from the beginning and keeping it that way!
Take care of it from the beginning and there is no need for an oil analysis.Gdetrailer wrote:
residual combustion byproducts which made it past the rings laying around eating away at your oil pan, filter and even bearing surfaces
I thought that the PCV system would keep this from happening? Or should I say PVC so you know what I'm talking about? Have you ever heard of a PCV valve?
Bruce- Color is NOT an indication of condition, in any way shape or form.
- If it keeps looking clear after a 40 mile run from time to time I say 5 years but that is just me in low use engines that when started will make be ran on highway for 40 miles at less before a long shut down.
We are at 30 months on the MH and it is still clear and full after about 300 miles on this oil change. We ran it 80 miles today at 55 MPH so I will check it tomorrow for clarity. wilber1 wrote:
If it's on warranty, whatever the manufacturer says.
x 2- Get a good quality synthetic and change it once a year. The good synthetic is better at sitting longer, and flowing on those infrequent starts.
I personally like Amsoil and it's easier to do 1 change a year than 2.
If you don't want to run synthetic 6 months is the most I would let it sit in the crankcase with infrequent use, the oil will start to break down and sitting in an oil pan isn't as easy as sitting in a new jug.ScottG wrote:
I do it by mileage and not time - so if it takes me 2 years to get to the interval then that's when its changed. Oil last for many years in storage or just sitting in your engine. I suspect the yearly thing is just a marketing thing to make money.
I figured you would know better :-)
Oil with combustion deposits in it will break down even if you aren't driving. I would go a year at most, which is what I normally do. As far as pulling the plug and seeing water, you most likely WON'T, the hydraulic fluid turns a milky color when it is contaminated with water.. The hydraulic fluid should be CLEAR, if milky or off color (the replacement fluid I got from the dealer is red) it needs changed..
Really? :S Tell you what. You take a cup of hydraulic fluid and 3 oz of water, put them in a jar and put it on a shelf and after month or even a week look at them and see if you have a milky color. Then get back here and tell us the results. :B
BTW we are talking about engine oil here, not hydraulic oil. I've had engines sit for years and years and years and no water in the sump. You think with all these engines that sit for months and months in the winter there would be failures right and left. Other people and I must be really lucky! :BTurtle n Peeps wrote:
Moral of story, with light use it is a WISE investment to change your motor oil every year since it will attract moisture over time.
So are you really trying to say that your tractor "attracted" so much water in the oil that the hydraulics would not work? :RUsed outdoors in snow, rain and sunshine..
If I was the tech on the job I would think this is a far more plausible thing to happen if I found water in the sump of your tractor.
I know I can pull the sump plug on my Case and Deere or many other pieces of equipment I have around here after they sat over winter and not even a drop of water comes out.
Yep, hydraulic fluid actually CAN attract enough moisture to PLUG filters, ESPECIALLY when you are dealing with average daily high temps of ZERO degrees for several weeks..
On my tractor, I discovered the hydraulics filter sits AT THE BOTTOM of the reservoir. Any moisture accumulation which falls out of suspension WILL drop to the bottom of said reservoir.
However in my case the filter was plugging off from all the ICE crystals that was in the oil or in the case of pleated PAPER filters, the paper attracts water and that water can freeze in the paper making the filter clog.
So , yes it can happen..
As far as pulling the plug and seeing water, you most likely WON'T, the hydraulic fluid turns a milky color when it is contaminated with water.. The hydraulic fluid should be CLEAR, if milky or off color (the replacement fluid I got from the dealer is red) it needs changed..
Keep in mind, vehicle engines now days are NOT CHEAP to repair or replace.. A modern V8 gas engine short block now days will set you back an easy $4K not including labor.. Diesels $6K or more..
It isn't like the old days when you could go to the wrecking yard and buy a working "pull" for $200 and drop it in..
To me, spending $40 a year in oil and filter is peanuts compared to risking a $4K engine.
Granted your oil and filter may not be worn out, but it would beat having oil which has a lot of condensation and residual combustion byproducts which made it past the rings laying around eating away at your oil pan, filter and even bearing surfaces..
Take your chances and roll the dice, your choice and your money..
