how to fix this mess

A rear jack on my Bigfoot was similarly damaged although not nearly as bad as yours. The bottom was pulled out about an inch. I used glue and some serrated metal strips designed for just such a repair to reinforce the holes that were stripped. I found the two lowest screws are in just the thin fiberglass shell; there is no solid backing behind these. It took a long time to scrape off the sealant they used under and around the jack braket. I opted to reuse the original screws rather than go up to the next size and it appears to be pretty solid. But you may need to upsize the screws with the extent of damage you have. It helps that the force on the screws is a shear force rather than an axial force. And that the rear jacks carry much less of the load than the front jacks which is likely why they don't wrap around underneath the camper like the front jacks do. Good luck with your repairs.

Hope your repair goes smooth. I like the ideas presented.

The comments about screwed versus thru-bolts - Interesting, tear the whole corner out with thru-bolts. Plan to do thru-bolts on my resto-mod. Hadn't thought of the damage thing. And I have access at all four.

But - A solid lag screwed method could also do much more damage than this appears. Now THERE's a debate!

I had to repair the left rear side of my Bigfoot due to water damage from a leaky sewer vent on the roof last year. It took me several hours to pull out the rotten backer board, a piece at a time. After cleaning the area as best as I could, I was able to push a pressure treated 2x6 into the area (actually two pieces). Then I re-attached the jack with new larger and longer screws. I took about 8 hours of work to get it right, but I feel it's probably stronger than original. Things get very difficult, though, if you can't get access to the back side to evaluate and work. I had to work at it through the access door for the sewer valves. Lots of cuts and scrapes to my hands and arms.

Access!
Most parts of solid walls don't allow access without cutting the wall

Whats the deal with lag screws holding vital parts like this? Why not thru-bolts?

Posted: 03/08/09 06:23pm Link | Print | Notify Moderator

Most if not all blocking in the walls of Bigfoot campers is "plywood " that doesn't split, and itis either glued to the fiberglass or in some areas it is plywood blocking that is actually glassed into the skin ,Drill over sized holes "in your mounting plates ( not the fiberglass) then purchase larger d1ameter stainless steel lag bolts 1" 1/2 long be carefull not over tighten.Longer lags may penetrate your bath wall or generator box.You may have to use several washers to keep the unthread part of the bolt from entering the fiberglass & wood>

* This post was edited 03/08/09 06:34pm by 54suds *



link to pix of Bigfoot 1500/2500 walls opened , jack mount area repairs

54suds wrote:
I have repaired the same problem using Loctite epoxy instant mix self mixing applicator and fluted dowels and drilling a new pilot hole in the dowel
is you BF a 1500 series?


you can also try using a much larger diameter lag bolts . try it in one of the middle holes to check for how well it holds

Bedlam wrote:
Start by filling the holes with tooth picks dipped in epoxy. Once set, use the next diameter larger screw. If you have access from the inside, you came add an internal backing plate and use bolts instead.

If it's a wood frame, either version above of this fix will work. Metal frame, next bolt size up. I don't know that I'd install through bolts and nuts with a backing plate. While it would make it much stronger, if something like this happens again, it may rip out the whole back, not just the jack. This one's your choice.
I have had to fill rust and water deteriorated jack bolt holes on my TC jacks with epoxy and dowels and it is working great . Seal up good around the repair when done.

If you check with Big Foot, ask about drilling all holes in place of using the ones that are there already?
Also can you use a bigger and longer screw?
Good Luck & Drive Safe!

Doesnt the Big foot jack have a base that camper sets on? I expected to see the fiberglass exploded. Looks like it just pulled the screws.
Short of mfg recommendations should you contact or other BF owners input...
My first thought was to run a length of tape a few inches from camper mount line, to measure from for reinstall. Then separate the jack mount from jack. Spend required time cleaning everything while formulating plan.

Mine would be to pump full of glue, tap in some fluted or spiraled dowels. Let it set. May need some cleaning up to use larger dowels if required. (if 1/4" bolts use 5/16" dowel-depends on fit) Depth by thickness of wall, but Id lean toward end of dowel just inside fiberglass. Check mount plate, if needed for next size up screw redrill mount plate. Adding maybe 3 more bolts down center. Larger diameter screws into existing repaired holes but longer may not be option.
Pre-mount jack plate using new screw holes, drilling pilot holes. Then drill pilot holes into the the existing doweled holes, or mark those that cant be drilled with plate in place. Once all holes ready, mount plate using appropriate sealant. Caulking each screw also as added.
I guess because on our filon covered alum frame, if I tore off a jack what a mess we would have, this 'looks' like a minor repair. Im sure doesnt make it any easier though. Almost looks like a frangible joint.

Start by filling the holes with tooth picks dipped in epoxy. Once set, use the next diameter larger screw. If you have access from the inside, you came add an internal backing plate and use bolts instead.