how to replace tire stud

I'm happy to report that I was able to replace everything. The most difficult part was trying to get the new studs in, but all is well with the world now.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

Segen77, In most cases, after you remove the silver cap and the cotter pin, you will have either a castle nut (nut with a bunch of cutouts to allow for the cotter pin) or another cap type of thing that the cotter pin goes through and will keep the nut from spinning. Either way, the nut has to be removed...usually a washer underneath that also. Give the drum a couple of bumps and the bearing will start to pop out. Remove that and slide the drum off of the brake shoes. This is sometimes simple and other times a royal pain. Reassemble in reverse order. Snug the nut then back it off until you can get the cotter pin through the castle nut. Make sure everything spins OK. Good luck.

Thanks. Now I just need to figure out what stud size I have. :)

segen77 wrote:
In regard to the torque. I don't have an owners manual, and the trailer is too old to get one from the manufacturer. My torque wrench goes to 80ft lbs, so I did that, and then gave it a little extra with the tire iron. It's the best I could do for now.

I found this chart on Discount tires wab page.

Trailers & Applications Not Listed

Stud Size Torque
7/16" 80 ft-lbs
1/2" 100 ft-lbs
9/16" 140 ft-lbs
5/8" 175 ft-lbs
10mm 50 ft-lbs
12mm 100 ft-lbs
14mm 120 ft-lbs


Gary

I have also found this website, but I'm not sure which hub is mine.

http://www.al-ko.us/1616.htm

I appreciate all the advice.

In regard to the torque. I don't have an owners manual, and the trailer is too old to get one from the manufacturer. My torque wrench goes to 80ft lbs, so I did that, and then gave it a little extra with the tire iron. It's the best I could do for now.

As for the hub, I have placed some pictures below. The first thing I need to figure out is how to get it off. Do I just remove the silver cap in the center, and straighten the cotter pin in the middle? I don't see any thing else holding it on, but I'm guessing there has to be something. Any help on this would be great.


I did find this video, but I'm not sure if it's the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGDb83odXhU

Check your owners manual for wheel lug torque spec.'s. My manual for my Jayco says 14" tires torque to 90-120 Ft. lbs. with "clicker style" torque wrench. If you are using an impact wrench, torque to 40-50 ft. lbs.
Take the hub to an auto parts store that has a machine shop on premises and match up the stud and they should remove the old one and press the new in for you at no charge. Of course, ask first.
Good Luck

K Charles wrote:
... or a couple washers and an old nut put on backwards and an impact wrench and pull them thru from the front.

Yup, from my days in a tire shop I replaced a lot of them that way.

If you have Dexter axles you can go on their website and look up the stud P/N's.

Hammer them all out. Take one down to NAPA etc. and match up a new one.
Hammer it in.

Probably 90-120, I go 105.

http://www.countrytrailer.com/wndisplayItem.asp?number=25

It's a 2001 KZ Coyote. The wheel size is 205 75 14

I think I know how to remove the hub, I'm just concerned with how to get the broken stud out. (I assume it's a press fit, and not a screw in type)