How to stay warm

Huntindog wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Huntindog writes “You do know that many if not most S&B houses are wired in a similar fashion. I have seen quite a few that forgo using the screw teminalal that are present and unstead use the quicker push in wire attachment... Not disputing which one may be better... Just stating a fact. I do think that the screws make for better contact when new,,, But the downside in a mobile application may be the a tendancy to loosen over time”

So.. If someone tells you jump off a cliff BECAUSE they did and lived, you should do it also?

That “justification” is school kid mentality..

There where MILLIONS of houses and mobile homes built in the 1970s and early 1980s which were exclusively wired with ALUMINUM WIRE for all outlets and switches.. Some burned MOST did not and are still in use today..

Does that make it right or good to use?

No.

Millions of homes, mobile homes, RVs plumbed with grey QUEST plastic pipe.. Some broke and flooded and MOST have not and in fact most are STILL IN USE TODAY..

Does that make it right or good to use?

No.

There where millions of 80% efficient FURNACES in homes and mobile homes in the 1980s through late 1990s which high temperature plastic pipe was used to connect the furnace to the flue.. It was recalled when it was discovered that the pipe indeed would get brittle and crack causing a high risk of CO poisoning.. Some DID crack, some were replaced, many are STILL in use (recall never done).

Does it make it right or good to use?

No.

As far as screws used in mobile applications coming loose.. I would be more scared of that little 14 ga contact point heating up and causing a fire with a heavy load.. That contact point is a lot like having a piece of 24 ga speaker wire between the 14ga wire and the plug.. Sure it can be done, for a short time, then it over heats..

Can’t say that I have had ANY of my screw terminals come loose even in mobile applications over the years and heck, even my GENERATORS all USE SCREW TERMINALS for the OUTLET TERMINATIONS FROM FACTORY..

Boy you want a shake test, a GENERATOR will test your connections..

There ALSO IS NO SUCH THING AS A “RV VERSION” of a vampire tap.. Never was designed for RV EXCLUSIVE RV USE, but it found it's way there for EASE OF INSTALLATION.

It was designed for MOBILE HOME BUILDERS to BUILD FASTER WITH LESS LABOR. Has nothing to do with "quality" but has everything to do with trimming the cost per unit built.

RV manufacturers picked up on the idea of saving labor time and ran with it..

I WILL STILL PICK MY SCREW CONNECTIONS OVER THE FLIMSY VAMPIRE TAP ANY DAY.

All right.. Don't hold back now.. Tell me how you really feel.:B

I don't use portable heaters much, and I have never had a outlet problem. So I won't lose any sleep over it.

Not wanting to pick a fight or argue but there is good reasons as to why a vampire tap isn't all that good.

To drive home my point of view, I took another picture for folks like me that have done electronic and or electrical work will really understand the problem in the photo..



What I di was to remove the insulation from the end that was in the Hubbell outlet..

Pretty graphic to say the least..

What you are seeing is a HUGE DEEP "nick" in the wire, it is BOTH sides and is where the wire was pushed into the tap connection..

Electricians KNOW that nicking wire is a no no and nicking a SOLID wire is even worse yet.

That makes a very weak spot which VIBRATION can BREAK it off.

Yes, I realize the outlet HAS a built in "relief" which is supposed to keep the wire from moving and stay in place..

BUT as you said, it IS being used in a "mobile" environment..