On the way home from the campground today, my 7 pin connector disconnected from my truck, and began to drag on the highway. Before I noticed it, the connector had been shaved down on one side of the connector pretty badly. The connector and cable still work, but I want to replace the cable and connector. How difficult is it to replace the cable and connector. Has anyone had to replace this cable and connector? Is this something that I should have the dealer replace? If you were me would you replace this cable and connector?

You can buy just the end and replace it on the cable. The replacement should be marked which color wire goes where.

They also sell what you need at ETRAILER.COM. The replacement cable and 7-way Plug and wiring comes in two sizes - short and long... The 7-way connecter is a molded plug just like your original... This is called a 7-way BLADE connector verses what you called a 7-pin connector.Installation may be as easy as wire color for wire color in the trailer junction box. ETRAILER has a nice installation video for this on their web site.Roy Ken

I had to replace my cable and plug; the plug had some wear and I could see corrosion down in it, plus I found a cut in the cable sheath. I found exactly what I needed on Amazon (Hopkins 20146). It was about $25. I had problems, but they were self inflicted while rewiring a separate connector box. Bottom line, if I were only replacing the cable and plug it would have been a very easy color for color wire for wire swap. BTW - that is why I always tow with my heaslights on during daylight. I can see the side clearance lights. As long as I see the clearance light lit up, I know the trailer is still plugged in.

Just make sure you use the flat blade style connector on the trailer side. Don't use the Bargman style twin contact connector. They don't work with the mateing connectors on the vehicle side. The best replacement connector and harness is the Hoppkins. It use a flat blade tin plated terminal. The Pollack replacement connector is flat blade, but unplated brass terminal. Both work well with the vehicle side mateing conector.MM49

MM49 wrote:Just make sure you use the flat blade style connector on the trailer side. Don't use the Bargman style twin contact connector. They don't work with the mateing connectors on the vehicle side. The best replacement connector and harness is the Hoppkins. It use a flat blade tin plated terminal. The Pollack replacement connector is flat blade, but unplated brass terminal. Both work well with the vehicle side mateing conector.MM49Where can I purchase the Hopkins replacement connector and harness that you are referring?

I need to replace the 7 pin connector/ cable on my camper.

JOHNNLISANMIKE
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
Found out the hard way also that the plug had come out after making a tight turn and then going down the road a few miles. Luckily the we had just enough connector left to make it home. After replacing the connector I zip tie the connector to the recpt now.

Regards, John
PAThwacker
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
I just cut half of my damaged wire, and mounted a 7 pin junction box on the tongue directly behind the battery. I had to get boxed steel, prime, and paint black. I did not want to drill directly into the trailer frame. Ran the shortened cable to the box with ring terminals, and mated an e-trailer 6 foot 7 wire plug wire color for color. Easy DIY repair job, and has ports to run additional wires out to pumps, poop cannons, and other 12vt accessories.
camperforlife
Explorer
Jun 03, 2014
Ruthless, many trailers have a junction box on the front of the trailer frame or just under the front of the frame where the pigtail is connected to the other wiring. Mine was there and an easy swap. Mine drug on the pavement while still connected to the truck, frayed, shorted the trailer brakes causing the wheels to lock up. I just happened to be traveling in the passing lane of the interstate at 65 MPH. Quite the exciting place to lock up all 4 trailer tires!
Ruthless
Explorer
May 31, 2014
Is there a link on how to replace the 7 RV Blade connector from the existing cable?
MM49
Explorer
May 31, 2014
Ruthless wrote:
MM49 wrote:
Just make sure you use the flat blade style connector on the trailer side. Don't use the Bargman style twin contact connector. They don't work with the mateing connectors on the vehicle side.

The best replacement connector and harness is the Hoppkins. It use a flat blade tin plated terminal. The Pollack replacement connector is flat blade, but unplated brass terminal. Both work well with the vehicle side mateing conector.
MM49

Where can I purchase the Hopkins replacement connector and harness that you are referring?

Hopkins
Ruthless
Explorer
May 31, 2014
If I get a replacement connector, how difficult/easy is it to remove the old connector, put the new connector on the existing cable?
Ruthless
Explorer
May 31, 2014
MM49 wrote:
Just make sure you use the flat blade style connector on the trailer side. Don't use the Bargman style twin contact connector. They don't work with the mateing connectors on the vehicle side.

The best replacement connector and harness is the Hoppkins. It use a flat blade tin plated terminal. The Pollack replacement connector is flat blade, but unplated brass terminal. Both work well with the vehicle side mateing conector.
MM49

Where can I purchase the Hopkins replacement connector and harness that you are referring?
MM49
Explorer
May 31, 2014
Just make sure you use the flat blade style connector on the trailer side. Don't use the Bargman style twin contact connector. They don't work with the mateing connectors on the vehicle side.

The best replacement connector and harness is the Hoppkins. It use a flat blade tin plated terminal. The Pollack replacement connector is flat blade, but unplated brass terminal. Both work well with the vehicle side mateing conector.
MM49
Boband4
Explorer
May 31, 2014
I had to replace my cable and plug; the plug had some wear and I could see corrosion down in it, plus I found a cut in the cable sheath. I found exactly what I needed on Amazon (Hopkins 20146). It was about $25. I had problems, but they were self inflicted while rewiring a separate connector box. Bottom line, if I were only replacing the cable and plug it would have been a very easy color for color wire for wire swap. BTW - that is why I always tow with my heaslights on during daylight. I can see the side clearance lights. As long as I see the clearance light lit up, I know the trailer is still plugged in.
RoyB
Explorer II
May 31, 2014
They also sell what you need at ETRAILER.COM. The replacement cable and 7-way Plug and wiring comes in two sizes - short and long... The 7-way connecter is a molded plug just like your original... This is called a 7-way BLADE connector verses what you called a 7-pin connector.

Installation may be as easy as wire color for wire color in the trailer junction box. ETRAILER has a nice installation video for this on their web site.

Roy Ken