Indoor storage question

[Acdii]

I plan to move my trailer into my barn this weekend, it is already winterized, have 2 1/2 gallons of the extra special pink stuff in the system, heat tank cleaned out and drained, and will get all the good packed up and put away, dryer sheets, etc. But what I would like to do is remove the wheels while stored and place the trailer on stands. What weight stands should I use for this? The trailer is about 6300# wet, probably removing 150# of good from inside, not completely emptying it, just stuff that can freeze, Bedding and towels will go into a locking container, and I already stuffed openings with steel wool. Around the jack stands I plan to pour mothballs, rodents HATE mothballs. If I can not put the stabs down during storage that would be good as the rears will be in dirt, while everything else will be on concrete.

To get it in the barn I have to remove the 14" wheels and use 12" so that I can clear the door and trusses. Trailer height is 10'8" door height and trusses 10'8". The AC unit is a tall SOB. Once I get it in, I want to put the stands under the axles and leave it that way until spring.

[Acdii]

Well, it's in. I took the cover off and was able to clear by 2 inches. No need to put smaller wheels on, or reduce air pressure in the tires. That cover is deceiving in its height. There is 2" of space above the unit and the top of the cover. Not only did I get this trailer in, I got both my other trailers in, and made room for the manure spreader and generator cart. Now I have a place to park my Kubota with the backhoe still attached. Win Win Win.

[SoundGuy]

Acdii wrote:
My concern is if there will be a hole in the roof then that I have to worry about critters getting in, especially our barn cats, and that awful dirt that gets everywhere.

Seal the hole with a scrap piece of plywood - simple. 🙂

[Acdii]

I'll give it a look and see. My concern is if there will be a hole in the roof then that I have to worry about critters getting in, especially our barn cats, and that awful dirt that gets everywhere. Don't know if its the horses or the surrounding fields, but I pulled my horse trailer out Saturday and it was covered in it.

[SoundGuy]

MFL wrote:
Once again, I think SoundGuy has a great idea! I do think he missed the mark on his 5 minute labor time, and done (figure of speech, I think).

If you have use of a tractor, with loader/bucket, it would simplify things to remove AC from roof. As we get older, a helper is often needed also.

Well OK - 10 minutes then. 😉 I've done it myself, even installed one of these A/Cs on our popup, and unscrewing the 4 bolts securing the top unit in place really is as easy as I described. There's no caulking to deal with, just simply lift the top unit off the roof once those 4 bolts securing it are removed.

[MFL]

Once again, I think SoundGuy has a great idea! I do think he missed the mark on his 5 minute labor time, and done (figure of speech, I think).

If you have use of a tractor, with loader/bucket, it would simplify things to remove AC from roof. As we get older, a helper is often needed also.

Jerry

[Acdii]

Tvov wrote:
Using a different set of "storage wheels", why not just let the camper sit on them over the winter? You are planning on taking them off anyways when you use the camper.

The way I mess things up, I wouldn't raise the camper back up to "normal" height once in storage... When pulling out in the spring, I would forget that I did that and would damage things pulling out.

Seems like a lot work here. Raising the opening height of the garage / barn door is not an option? It may not be as expensive as you think, compared to everything else you are planning.

Well, the door height is exactly the same as every truss, so raising the roof is the only option.

The reason I was thinking of putting it on stands is that I only have 2 tires and was going to roll it back on the rear axle and then put the dropped axle on the stands, but if I can get it in without replacing the wheels I can return the two I bought and be done with it. It's still a work in progress. I put my other two trailers in there already and getting them in there with the tractor was a nail biter since I couldn't see the rear without getting off the tractor, so I just walked along side it and backed them in that way. I will use the truck to get the big guy in to avoid any damage to either the trailer or the stalls once I figure out the clearance issue.

[beemerphile1]

Tires are meant to be on the ground under a vehicle. Nothing is gained by removing the tires from the ground and you risk damage to the RV and injury to your self.

[Tvov]

Using a different set of "storage wheels", why not just let the camper sit on them over the winter? You are planning on taking them off anyways when you use the camper.

The way I mess things up, I wouldn't raise the camper back up to "normal" height once in storage... When pulling out in the spring, I would forget that I did that and would damage things pulling out.

Seems like a lot work here. Raising the opening height of the garage / barn door is not an option? It may not be as expensive as you think, compared to everything else you are planning.

[SoundGuy]

Acdii wrote:
I took a closer look at the AC, looks like I might gain an inch with the cover off, and if I reduce the air to 20 PSI in the tires I might be able to slide it in, then air the tires back up once it is parked. There appears to be a foam block on top of the frame under the cover, so hoping that is what it is, and if I remove it that should allow it to clear.

You do realize that removing the A/C top unit entirely is but a 5 minute job? :h Just remove the ceiling piece, unscrew the four bolts that secure the top and ceiling pieces together, unplug the top unit's harness, and remove the top unit entirely from the trailer ... that ought to give you the clearance you need with much less work than it would take to fool with the tires. Why cut this close when you can otherwise create plenty of clearance? It will also give you the opportunity to inspect the top unit's gasket - and replace if necessary over the winter. Reinstallation in the spring is simply the reverse.

[Acdii]

I took a closer look at the AC, looks like I might gain an inch with the cover off, and if I reduce the air to 20 PSI in the tires I might be able to slide it in, then air the tires back up once it is parked. There appears to be a foam block on top of the frame under the cover, so hoping that is what it is, and if I remove it that should allow it to clear.

[TheBreu]

Maybe just roll it in on a set of rims and put plywood down to roll the rims on to keep from marring up the concrete? Just a thought

[Acdii]

Unfortunately, the AC unit is taking up all the room inside the cover. That was the first thing I looked at. As far as raising once in place, only the AC unit is in the way and I plan to have that between the trusses, which are 9' apart.

I considered just pulling the wheels off and rolling it back on the drums, but they aren't made for that.

[westend]

It occurred to me, does the air conditioner shroud account for 4" of height? Perhaps, removing the shroud may get you enough loss of height to get the trailer in the barn.

Any cheap jackstands X 4 will work for your purpose of getting the wheels off the ground (regarding weight). FWIW, the smallest stands I have are 10 3/4" from grade to inside of saddle. That will raise the overall height of the trailer if placed under the spring shackles. Don't know if that will work because ceiling truss height of your building is unknown.
An alternative would be to remove the 12" wheels and lower onto timbers for storage.

[SoundGuy]

Acdii wrote:
I got a pair of 12" wheels and tires that should get it into the barn with plenty of clearance, but I dont want the trailer resting on them over the winter, or I might have a difficult time getting it back out. They are low on the weight scale, and sitting over the winter with all that weight would most likely deform them to where they would not roll well ...

JMO, but I think you're overthinking this. Unless those 12" tires are important to you otherwise why would you care what load they're carrying as long they get your trailer in and out of the barn? Just air them up to the recommended pressure ... simple.