installing a brake controller and hitch

You will get better products for less money if you shop around, not only for a hicth but everything else you need for a camper.

I don't go to an RV dealer for anything and I won't pay retail. Most of the RV stuff I buy, I get from an auto parts store. My local guys have a catalogue of RV parts and accessories, what they don't have in stock they can order and usually have the next day. Their retail prices are about 25% lower than the RV stealership. Then they give me a discount on their retail price of 10-20%.

I also recommend the Equal-i-zer brand hitch with built in 4-point sway control. This type hitch does not need any holes drilled into the trailer frame to install.

I started out towing with a hitch that had a adjustable sway bar. Was not happy with the performance. Moved up to the Equal-i-zer. Was really surprised on how much better the sway control was.

What I did was to take the hitch head and new ball down to a equipment rental yard and had them tighten the nut on the Ball. Will save you buying or renting a torque wrench. I went in and talked to the manager telling him what I needed done. He said go around back and when the guys get a free minute they will do it for you.

Bob

Terryallan wrote:

westend wrote:

APT wrote:
Not all WDH and brake controllers are the same. $1000 is on the high side, but $500 for a mid-range WDH, $125 for Prodigy P2/P3, plus installation for both.

Please get at least the Equal-i-zer vs. the EAZ Lift.

X2
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AFAIK, any Ford pickup truck built after 2003 has it's own factory controller (if ordered with the trailer package).

Uh No it doesn't. I have a 2004 Lariat, Loaded, has the towing package. No brake controller. However. They did come prewired for a brake controller. They are just plug and play. All you do is plug them in. mount it, and good to go.

BTW F150s got a integrated controller in 2009. Super dutys got theirs in 2005

Thanks for the correction, I always thought my truck model year was the last without one. I've read that the factory controllers are the best but I don't know what you'd do to improve on the Prodigy for a final result.

I priced a WD hitch before I bought my TT because I knew I would have to have one. The dealer wanted $800.00 for a WD hitch that would handle a 5000 lb. TT.

When we eventually found the TT we wanted, (different dealer)the salesman through in the WD hitch to sweeten the deal. It never hurts to ask.

The dealer installed the hitch during the walk through, when I picked up the TT.

I figured this dealer sells and services hundreds of TTs each year, he knows a lot more about what will work with my TT and TV combination. He is a licensed dealer and if something goes wrong with the WD hitch, the hitch manufacturer cannot blame the DIY owener.

Yes, I am sure the dealer made a profit on the deal, that is how he stays in business.

I did install the brake controller because I had it from my previous TV and it is a simple installation.

When I got my TT I negotiated in a WD hitch and brake controller., turns out they installed a $350 wirless controller in my TV.. Plugs into the cig lighter when in use and it works great !! Best part is if i tow with another vechical in just plug the controller in and I'm good to go. Bottom line is before you think it's to much money find out exactly what they are installing.

I had just the opposite form my dealer. He said all I would need was an EAZ-Lift. They had trouble installing it because of the position of the coupler on the tongue. They put 5 washers in the WDH and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. One guy told the other, "I don't get it, we always put 5 washers in and never have any trouble". Problem was the coupler was on the bottom of the tongue and they were used to leaving 3 links hanging. Can't do that with the bottom mount couplers. To have the bars level you hook the last link.

I am all for DIY'n anything one feel capable of (most products like hitches and BC's come with great instructions that the average handy type easily handle), but I would recommend getting some first hand advice from others who purchased at the dealer in question, if possible. They are not all inept shysters. I knew ours had a good reputation (unlike most of the horror stories you read here). I also saw their display of hitch products and asked what they would recommend for us. They offered a good WDH and even discussed the right weight bars and all that so I let them set up everything. They where also decent enough that I got the a Reese Duel Cam and a basic timed-based controller installed as part of the cost of the TT. I knew going in the BC would likely be cheapo timed based unit, and it was. It worked, and I used it for a few trips before I took it out and swapped to a Prodigy P2 a few months later.

westend wrote:

APT wrote:
Not all WDH and brake controllers are the same. $1000 is on the high side, but $500 for a mid-range WDH, $125 for Prodigy P2/P3, plus installation for both.

Please get at least the Equal-i-zer vs. the EAZ Lift.

X2
.

AFAIK, any Ford pickup truck built after 2003 has it's own factory controller (if ordered with the trailer package).

Uh No it doesn't. I have a 2004 Lariat, Loaded, has the towing package. No brake controller. However. They did come prewired for a brake controller. They are just plug and play. All you do is plug them in. mount it, and good to go.

BTW F150s got a integrated controller in 2009. Super dutys got theirs in 2005

Good post @myredracer

Not really a good idea to let a dealer install a hitch, period. Sometimes they don't even know how to torque things up. If they are selling you a brake controller and WDH, chances are they are the cheapest and most basic of ones available. $1000 total is too much.

When we bought our first TT, we knew nothing about WDHs and BCs. The dealer sent us to a local hitch shop who installed a very basic WDH and BC. In the fist camping season, we ended up replacing the BC with a Prodigy P3. We also now have a Reese DC WDH. We sure know a lot more about WDHs...

I would install the WDH and BC yourself. The BC may require an adapter harness for your TV. The dealer will not spend the time to adjust your BC either... Installing the WDH is easy, except for maybe the sway control brackets on the A-frame but you just need to drill some holes in the right spot. You need to learn how to adjust the WDH and it is somewhat different for each TV and brand of WDH. The straightforward method of adjusting a WDH involves measuring the before and after heights of the front fenders. The angle of the hitch head also needs to be set right. The dealer is just not going to want to spend the time to do this, even if in the off-chance they know how.

One very important thing to do on WDHs is to install the correct rating of spring bar. The rating is based on the actual tongue weight of a TT, not the dry weight and the weight should be measured after the TT is all loaded up for camping. Sometimes you can estimate it based on the GVWR and the bar size may end up being in the middle of the range. For example, Reese trunnion bars are either 800 or 1200 lbs so there is 400 lbs of leeway. You don't want bars that are under-sized otherwise you will not transfer enough weight back on the front axle of the TV. Dealers are not going to weigh your tongue wt and then size the bars. They would probably just slap in what they *think* is okay.

The Reese dual cam WDH is pretty nice but you need to study up on installing it and setting it up. Chances are close to 100% that the dealer would screw one of these up. We bought ours last year for $450 and shopping and searching around the internet.

I like the trunnion style spring bars as they are more compact and a little bit easier to handle and store. The round bars have a little captive spring clip and pin that holds the bar in place. We had a clip fall out on ours but fortunately it happened somewhere on our property but could not find it. Bought a pack with 2 clips in it and had one for a spare. There is no retainer clip or anything like on a trunnion bar to fall out and lose.