inverter to AC outlet!!

opnspaces wrote:
Probably the first thing you need to figure out is how you would get the wire to the outlets. The inverter should be near the batteries.

You could also possibly drop the wire straight down through the floor and back up where you want the outlet. but you still need to protect the wire under the trailer.

All of which is illustrated in my own inverter installation detailed 2 posts earlier. ;)

Probably the first thing you need to figure out is how you would get the wire to the outlets. The inverter should be near the batteries. Are the outlets close to the inverter or 20 feet away. Is there a solid progression of cabinets from the inverter to the proposed outlet to hide wire in? Or are you hoping to add the outlets to an exterior wall?

If you're thinking about exterior walls it might be easiest to run surface mount outlets and and channeling. This would hopefully limit the amount of holes to drill.
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You would also have to buy the wire to go inside the channels.

You could also possibly drop the wire straight down through the floor and back up where you want the outlet. but you still need to protect the wire under the trailer.

I've used the extension cord method to get power to other spots. I used a cord that was close to the same color as my interior trim and then ran it along side the bottom a cabinet and stapled it in place with some with some wire staples that I spray painted the right color. It didn't look to tacky but, then again I'm a Caveman.

Powts wrote:
So I just purchased a GoPower 700W pure sine wave inverter plus all the install goodies for our TT.

Initially I powered our trailer "whole house" by simply turning off the converter and plugging the trailer's main service cable into one of the inverter's 120 vac outlets. I later refined this by installing receptacles dedicated to the inverter output alone - one outside, duplex receptacles on each side of the bed, and another at the galley. I mounted the remote in one of the bedside cabinets so if we lost shore power for some reason I could just turn the inverter on without even getting out of bed and the 4 receptacles would be powered. Pics start here, click on "i" at the top right of any pic for a text description.

Inverter Wiring

The cheapest way is just run extension cord to the place where you want the power.
Next step would be running hardwire from inverter plug into additional wall duplex. New era duplex come with USB outlets as option, what solves several issues.
You mark the duplex "inverter" and all you have to do is remember that when you plug shore power.
The best is transfer switch, with converter rewired to shore power connectors.
Similar best option is buying converter/charger with transfer switch built in. That also will give you better converter, than TC manufacturers put into those units.

Here's what I've done with success:

Turn off the breakers to the converter, microwave, and AC.

Install the 30amp-to-110 dogbone to the umbilical line and plug that into one of the outlets on the inverter.

This will provide 110 power to all of the outlets in the rig. I turn off the AC and microwave breakers just so they aren't accidently turned on when on battery power. The converter also needs to be turned off because you don't want to be using battery power to backfeed into into your battery(ies). Basically, you don't want to use your battery to charge your battery. Not a good thing.

I've done numerous times with zero issues. It's basically the same as running separate outlets that plug directly into the inverter. You still need to be aware of the amperage usage of whatever your plugging into the outlets so as to not drain your battery bank.

pianotuna wrote:
A transfer switch will work. But consider using it with a sub panel so that the fridge, water heater, and converter are not going to be powered. I think that I'd want a larger inverter than 700 watts if I went with the sub panel and transfer switch.

The "work around" is to manually switch these items. If the batteries are hungry and the converter is left on, the fuse for the inverter will blow. Similarly for the water heater.

That is why I prefer the idea of dedicated outlets when the choice is a small wattage inverter.

I deliberately added a dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen area. As I have a large inverter, it gives me extra power when on shore power and means I can tun the induction cooker, and another high wattage device.

With just the 700 watts, my coffee maker could be run.

we are on the same page. I'd rather rely on my sub panel to control what is powered than my absent minded brain.! In my case the microwave and two 120V outlet circuits are on the subpanel from the inverter, keeps me from trying to run AC, have the fridge on AC accidentally, HWH etc. etc.

A transfer switch will work. But consider using it with a sub panel so that the fridge, water heater, and converter are not going to be powered. I think that I'd want a larger inverter than 700 watts if I went with the sub panel and transfer switch.

The "work around" is to manually switch these items. If the batteries are hungry and the converter is left on, the fuse for the inverter will blow. Similarly for the water heater.

That is why I prefer the idea of dedicated outlets when the choice is a small wattage inverter.

I deliberately added a dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen area. As I have a large inverter, it gives me extra power when on shore power and means I can tun the induction cooker, and another high wattage device.

With just the 700 watts, my coffee maker could be run.

transfer switch is IMHO one of the better if not the best solution. In fact if you have the (in)famous WFCO charger system, there is a transfer switch made to attach to the back of it. then put a subpanel next to the switch for the outlets to run off shore and transfer power. Did that in my trailer and have it set so that only the microwave, and the outlets run off the transfer switch. That way can't accidentally try to run the fridge, charger, AC etc. off the battery bank inverter. Inverter is in the pass through close to the batteries and a remote power switch for the inverter is in the trailer for easy access to power on/off.

I did need to run power cable from the inverter up to the power panel in the trailer to the transfer switch.

Also, for charging devices using USB, using 12V adapters is more efficient than using an inverter to power 120v power adapters.