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Is my hitch correct

Hideout17
Explorer
Explorer
Last year was my first year with a travel trailer and wdh hitch. My dealer set my wdh with trailer empty but told me I may need to change links when loaded. The unit towed well,I got educated on how big trucks affect the rig,getting my self out of tight spots at gas stations. The times I looked at my rig from afar the front looked high and rear low but trailer level. It always felt a little light in front.

So today I went out bymyself with wdh article in hand and went to see if my setup was right or not. Before I go on i found i may not have been hooking up hitch right. I didn't have my trailer level when I put bars on. I measure truck and trailer after I moved trailer to a level spot in my driveway. Here's what I have. Truck is a 2015 tundra and trailer is a 26rls keystone. Wdh is reuse dual cam 12k.

Unloaded truck front fender 37" and rear 39"

With trailer and no bars front 38 rear 36
Trailer and bars on front 37 rear 37" trailer is slight nose down,rear of frame 17 1/4" front 16 1/2"

My thought is its right. Trailer is loaded minus a few things. Should I consider a set of sumo springs for back or try it and see. When I measured before I was 1inch higher front and 3 inches lower rear. Thanks
9 REPLIES 9

Community Alumni
Not applicable
Chaz59 wrote:
My dealer said he did not measure the distance , it was more important if it looked level , my guess is that's not right.


You're correct that eyeballing it isn't the correct way to have it setup. Verifying that weights are being transferred correctly on a scale is how it should be done. Improper weights between the truck's and trailer's axles is what causes problems. I prefer this method over measuring fenders.

Hideout17
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks guys I feel good now. I have E rated tired not the stock P series tires. I got those in Georgia. I told my wife I was getting them period. The P series tires were to squishy.

fla-gypsy
Explorer
Explorer
I think you're ready for a test run
This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion.

09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds pretty good, but a trip across the CAT Scales will confirm the numbers. Follow my signature link for the how to and a link to one near you.

You stated you have the Reese Dual Cam, don't forget double check the cam adjustment since you have made some adjustments to the wdh.
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS Mods Reese DC HP

WDH Set Up. How a WDH Works. CAT Scale How To.

Chaz59
Explorer
Explorer
My dealer said he did not measure the distance , it was more important if it looked level , my guess is that's not right.
Charles

camp-n-family
Explorer
Explorer
I think you're about as good as it gets for hitch setup. What you don't mention is what tires do you have? The truck may "feel light in the front end" because of the stock P rated tires that come on most Tundras. They are soft and squishy, especially if not aired to the max. Sumo springs won't help. Get some good LT truck tires (e rated) and air them up. Should make a big difference.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
Hitched by Hensley

LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Explorer
Hideout17 wrote:
Truck is a 2015 tundra and trailer is a 26rls keystone. Wdh is Reese dual cam 12k.

Unloaded truck front fender 37" and rear 39"

With trailer and no bars front 38 rear 36
Trailer and bars on front 37 rear 37" trailer is slight nose down,rear of frame 17 1/4" front 16 1/2"

Due to designs in front suspension on many late model trucks, the best you can do with a WD hitch is to return the front end to unloaded height (position). You have done this with your adjustments and have the front and rear of the trailer within 3/4". On a 26' TT 3/4" difference over the length of the trailer is no big deal at all.

I would safely say your diligence paid off and you have your towing combination set about as right as you can get it. Now, just hook on and go camping.
'14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins
Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep
2000 Crownline 205BR
1997 Ranger Comanche 461VS
'01 Polaris Virage TX PWC
'94 Polaris SLT750 PWC
3 Wonderful Sons (21, 15, & 13)
1 forgiving wife!!!

WNYBob
Explorer
Explorer
It's nice to see that someone actually reads some articles and/or posts that others have taken the time to write!

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
3/4 of an inch is pretty close. Don't know if you can get the trailer front and back much closer.

At this point, I'd take the rig on the road and run a few miles up, on back roads, highways, and interstates. Start with slower speeds and make sure it feels 100% comfortable before jumping to the next upward speed (and traffic conditions).

If you have no sway, and the steering in the truck feels strong (not like you are turning on ice), then you are probably good to go.

If you are set up properly, the steering should feel almost the same with trailer or without. The only real noticeable difference you should feel is in the gas peddle and the revving of the engine when you start pulling the trailer forward.

There again, take it on a test drive and see how it feels with your current setting.

Springs? (Personally, I would not).