Forum Discussion
mbloof
May 16, 2022Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Another factor is to keep the input voltage high enough so the DC-DC buck/boost converter can maintain the set output amps and voltage to the camper battery. This is a separate issue from fusing the input side for its wire size, and having the input wire gauge match the input amps.
I think your on the right track here.
For camper applications, we have the wiring of the truck, then the connector(s), pigtail and then the wiring in the camper itself.
I swear my 97 Ford had 18AWG wiring! I tapped the output of the alternator and ran to a solenoid (switched on with the engine running) and 6AWG to ~1' of the 7Pin and then spliced in as large of a AWG wire as I could fit. The ground went from the 7Pin to the trucks frame.
At least Lances have 8AWG wire in their pigtails, a quick look at the wire sizes used in most 7Pin cables is 14AWG. :( My NL uses 10AWG to go to the battery.
Lets face it, all wire has resistance and higher currents will create higher voltage drops. Depending on efficiency of the step up charger/converter itself (which BTW 'stepping up' a voltage is difficult to do with anything resembling 'efficient') it could be easily trying to draw 50-60A on the input.
However, given the wiring in the camper itself (and the batteries state of charge) the battery may never see 40A of charge current. For example I recently viewed the charge current at the battery after a 2-day trip that the PD6045Li I have in my NL was providing when I got home. ~19A at the battery. :)
Personally I'm debating getting a 20A or 40A model myself. I do know that some of them have a switch/configuration option to operate at 1/2 power. :)
- Mark0
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