Lance TC - lithium - DC-DC charger question
I’ve just purchased a 2020 Lance 975 that will sit in my 2022 F350. I have to install the Lance 6-pin at the front of my bed. I will also replace the two 12V lead acid house batteries with one 200 a...
Forum Discussion
"I've heard of others rewiring from the converter/charger to the batteries with similar results.
Personally, I'm just looking for a 'fail safe' of sorts. If/when it might happen that I'm low on juice and digging the Yamaha out is not convenient,"
Some more notes on our camper set up
Can't carry a gen with the truck camper set up we have, so the DC-DC and truck engine is the gen and charger if solar can't keep up.
For the pos 12v to the DC-DC I by-passed the 7-pin connector that goes into the camper at the front of the truck bed, and have that wire with my by- pass wire added to it with a wire nut going inside the camper to the DC-DC. The wire nut is for when the camper is off the truck have to undo that plus pull the 7-pin. The neg to truck bed also comes off.
Proper connectors you can undo and do up would be better of course.
I have the 20 amp Renogy DC-DC and it does 20 amps to the camper batts according to my battery monitor. Way more amps than the 7-pin ever did.
Left campground with batts at 52% and thanks to DC-DC and some solar, it was 82% on arrival back home for about a two and a half hour drive. Way better than 7-pin!
Another advantage to the DC-DC is you can set the voltage to match the voltage of the solar controller so they add their amps. EG the other day with low batts and no solar in the woods, drove to a place in the open mid-day, and was getting 12.2a solar and 20 from the DC-DC measured one at a time and with both on monitor showed total 30.2 amps
( With the Class C alternator charging is at a lower voltage than its solar is set at, so they do not add all their amps. Eg, if solar is 15 amps by itself and alternator is 25 amps (small alternator in our C) you might see 32 amps instead of 40 )
With the truck engine off, if I forget to turn off the DC-DC it still does about 14 amps from the truck battery. Goes back to 20 when the truck is turned on. Oops, it is a Chev, no isolator, I must remember to go back into the camper and turn the DC-DC off. Easy to forget if you stop to go into a store, or worse go off for a longer time.
The DC-DC isolates the truck batt from the camper batt, but it does not isolate the camper from the truck unless you have a Ford. I could put an isolator in the camper somehow as others have--might save me someday.
Personally, I'm just looking for a 'fail safe' of sorts. If/when it might happen that I'm low on juice and digging the Yamaha out is not convenient,"
Some more notes on our camper set up
Can't carry a gen with the truck camper set up we have, so the DC-DC and truck engine is the gen and charger if solar can't keep up.
For the pos 12v to the DC-DC I by-passed the 7-pin connector that goes into the camper at the front of the truck bed, and have that wire with my by- pass wire added to it with a wire nut going inside the camper to the DC-DC. The wire nut is for when the camper is off the truck have to undo that plus pull the 7-pin. The neg to truck bed also comes off.
Proper connectors you can undo and do up would be better of course.
I have the 20 amp Renogy DC-DC and it does 20 amps to the camper batts according to my battery monitor. Way more amps than the 7-pin ever did.
Left campground with batts at 52% and thanks to DC-DC and some solar, it was 82% on arrival back home for about a two and a half hour drive. Way better than 7-pin!
Another advantage to the DC-DC is you can set the voltage to match the voltage of the solar controller so they add their amps. EG the other day with low batts and no solar in the woods, drove to a place in the open mid-day, and was getting 12.2a solar and 20 from the DC-DC measured one at a time and with both on monitor showed total 30.2 amps
( With the Class C alternator charging is at a lower voltage than its solar is set at, so they do not add all their amps. Eg, if solar is 15 amps by itself and alternator is 25 amps (small alternator in our C) you might see 32 amps instead of 40 )
With the truck engine off, if I forget to turn off the DC-DC it still does about 14 amps from the truck battery. Goes back to 20 when the truck is turned on. Oops, it is a Chev, no isolator, I must remember to go back into the camper and turn the DC-DC off. Easy to forget if you stop to go into a store, or worse go off for a longer time.
The DC-DC isolates the truck batt from the camper batt, but it does not isolate the camper from the truck unless you have a Ford. I could put an isolator in the camper somehow as others have--might save me someday.
