Leaks galore

delad1954 wrote:
Yes you can probable DIY but the tricky part is as you stated 1.5 of water column..... to much pressure and you open up leaks that would not normally be an issue....If you can find a service center that does the Sealtech Leak Test that would be the next best thing !

It's doubtful that using an additional 1" WC of pressures is opening up or causing additional leaks to be found. One has to think in the overall structural aspect of the situation, not in a limited air pressure value way. The Sealtech operators have a range of values used in air pressure when testing. Most are centering on a differential of 1/2" WC. That is enough to turn up any leaks.

As stated in my other posts, I have a trailer that has been sealed in it's wall structure more than a typical RV. Beyond form fitting foam board and a taped plastic film vapor barrier, is also a 1/4" foam insulation board and then, paneling. I observed a dozen leaks through siding and around windows in my first test. I would assume the air is leaving the interior around electrical box openings and through staple holes in the plastic film. Increasing the pressure differential beyond the 1'WC I used would only make bubbles at leak points form faster and bigger. It would not create additional leak points.

FWIW, IMO RV owners don't have access to equipment that would cause a harmful pressure differential. There would have to be a trailer that has large structural issues and the pressure would have to be raised beyond what can be achieved with available air handling equipment. I've used blowers with basically a 4' airplane propeller mounted in a cage to move air when remodeling. These are used to move any dust and evacuate it from the house when working. If it was reversed and the house was sealed, it may compromise certain structural elements but that is still doubtful, IMO. There are just too many small air egress points.