Leaving hot water tank turned on

[das]

This past weekend, we left our hot water tank turned on all weekend. Our old TT just had a gas hot water tank but the new one has both gas/electric. Was much easier to leave the electric element on instead of using up my gas and turning it off and back on when we need it. Who leaves their tank turned on all the time?

[BulldawgFan]

I touch the hot water heater switch on the unit twice a year. When I winterize...I turn it off. When I dewinterize I turn it back on. Its gas/electric and we have full hookups at the house. If we pull over while on the road I just have to throw the (propane) switch inside for hot water.

[Beachums]

This argument looks to me to have an undeniable trend no matter what the reason stated is........ simple math...

.....water heater - someone else's wallet = it stays on
.....water heater - my wallet = it's used only when needed.

[pappcam]

rockhillmanor wrote:

pappcam wrote:

Why would anyone bother turning off the water heater, especially if you have electric hookups that you've paid for?? :h

Because propane does not come out of electrical hookups!!

Some of us have a propane only hot water heater. And those of us with MH's don't want to have to break camp to move the RV to get propane.And when I had my TT I hated having to unhook the propane tank and schelp it to get it filled. :W

The OP mentioned leaving it on electric as his water heater was gas/electric. Having a propane only WH would complicate the issue somewhat.

Mine is on electric from the time I hook up to shore power, right to the morning of the day that we're leaving the campground.

[GaryWT]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Gary,

No.

2.1 kwh x 12.5 cents = 26.25 X 30 days = $7.87

.7 x 12.25 = 8.76 cents X 30 days = $2.62

Now if you are running a generator to get that energy--the numbers become pretty high. The 2nd way--turning on first thing in the morning I can often use solar power for the energy, so it costs nothing.

If I am traveling I'll use the inverter and alternator to heat the water.

GaryWT wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

On the electric setting the water heater will cycle every four hours and run for about 15 minutes. That represents 90 minute of run time and for my RV about 2.1 kwh. If starting from water 'at the ambient' it takes about 30 minutes to bring the water up to a temperature for a good hot shower in the morning. There is generally enough hot water left to get me to bed time. That represents only 0.7 kwh.

I tend to leave it on if someone else is paying, but will manually turn it off if I am paying.

So when you are paying the that is a 20 cents a day savings assuming your calculation of usage is correct.

Hi, sorry, I used 15 cents per kWh you used a lower number and two different ones but you example is only 17.49 cents a day, I estimated an extra 2.51 cents a day, sorry. Either way it is not that much.

[Old-Biscuit]

rockhillmanor wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

rockhillmanor wrote:
Off.

Only takes one time for the thermostat to go out and it becomes a boiler bomb. Been there done that. Almost burned up the whole side of my RV.

Remember this is not your res hwh that is in the basement. It's right smack up against the walls. You couldn't even hold your hand on the side of my MH the wall was so hot.

And no those relief valves do not always work. And after having the mobile RV repair out to fix HWH......he said the RV relief valves almost always fail to open.

Now that is paranoia and RV Tech hogwash.
RV water heater uses the exact SAME T&P Relief Valve as residential water heaters.......buy them at Lowes/Home Depot/ACE etc.

T-stats......preset for higher water temp than residential BUT still use 2 t-stats just like residential water heaters do, normal temp and a high temp.

BOTH t-stats have to fail and T&P has to fail before water heater can begin to become a boiler bomb (I operated boilers for 30 yrs.)

Hogwash......

Well it was NOT hogwash with my HWH. I saw it fail first hand and felt how hot the walls got.

AND
http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28384129.cfm
30' 1990 Fleetwood, Pace Arrow:
I need to replace the pressure release valve on my water heater. T

Guess I am not the only one that needed a new RV pressure relief valve. :W

Well good grief.....his 1990 RV needed a new T&P
Oh the horror, it only lasted 25 yrs. :S

[pianotuna]

Hi Gary,

No.

2.1 kwh x 12.5 cents = 26.25 X 30 days = $7.87

.7 x 12.25 = 8.76 cents X 30 days = $2.62

Now if you are running a generator to get that energy--the numbers become pretty high. The 2nd way--turning on first thing in the morning I can often use solar power for the energy, so it costs nothing.

If I am traveling I'll use the inverter and alternator to heat the water.

GaryWT wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

On the electric setting the water heater will cycle every four hours and run for about 15 minutes. That represents 90 minute of run time and for my RV about 2.1 kwh. If starting from water 'at the ambient' it takes about 30 minutes to bring the water up to a temperature for a good hot shower in the morning. There is generally enough hot water left to get me to bed time. That represents only 0.7 kwh.

I tend to leave it on if someone else is paying, but will manually turn it off if I am paying.

So when you are paying the that is a 20 cents a day savings assuming your calculation of usage is correct.

[FLY_4_FUN]

If I have paid for a 30a site, then I will have everything running on electric. HW tank goes on the moment we plug in, and off at the end of the trip. When we dry camp, HW tank goes on LP the moment we arrive..and off at the end of the trip. I also drive with my LP tanks open and fridge on from home to site. That about covers all my appliance habits.

Daryll

[BubbaChris]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

BubbaChris wrote:

pappcam wrote:

Why would anyone bother turning off the water heater, especially if you have electric hookups that you've paid for?? :h

I have the best possible motivation, to keep DW happy. No logic about energy use or time spent waiting can trump that. She can be a light sleeper and can hear it cycle overnight if left on.

How does she hear the electric element turn on/off?

I don't care how she does it. We've been married 26 years. And if giving in on little things like this helps me get another 26 out of this partnership, I'm Golden (especially since the TT camping was her idea).

[GaryWT]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

On the electric setting the water heater will cycle every four hours and run for about 15 minutes. That represents 90 minute of run time and for my RV about 2.1 kwh. If starting from water 'at the ambient' it takes about 30 minutes to bring the water up to a temperature for a good hot shower in the morning. There is generally enough hot water left to get me to bed time. That represents only 0.7 kwh.

I tend to leave it on if someone else is paying, but will manually turn it off if I am paying.

So when you are paying the that is a 20 cents a day savings assuming your calculation of usage is correct.

[rockhillmanor]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

rockhillmanor wrote:
Off.

Only takes one time for the thermostat to go out and it becomes a boiler bomb. Been there done that. Almost burned up the whole side of my RV.

Remember this is not your res hwh that is in the basement. It's right smack up against the walls. You couldn't even hold your hand on the side of my MH the wall was so hot.

And no those relief valves do not always work. And after having the mobile RV repair out to fix HWH......he said the RV relief valves almost always fail to open.

Now that is paranoia and RV Tech hogwash.
RV water heater uses the exact SAME T&P Relief Valve as residential water heaters.......buy them at Lowes/Home Depot/ACE etc.

T-stats......preset for higher water temp than residential BUT still use 2 t-stats just like residential water heaters do, normal temp and a high temp.

BOTH t-stats have to fail and T&P has to fail before water heater can begin to become a boiler bomb (I operated boilers for 30 yrs.)

Hogwash......

Well it was NOT hogwash with my HWH. I saw it fail first hand and felt how hot the walls got.

AND
http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28384129.cfm
30' 1990 Fleetwood, Pace Arrow:
I need to replace the pressure release valve on my water heater. T

Guess I am not the only one that needed a new RV pressure relief valve. :W

[toedtoes]

I have propane only and can go 28 days without having to fill up. Just depends on your preferences - the few times i'd have to break camp and get fuel is much less an issue than having to light the pilot every time I want hot water.

[rockhillmanor]

pappcam wrote:

Why would anyone bother turning off the water heater, especially if you have electric hookups that you've paid for?? :h

Because propane does not come out of electrical hookups!!

Some of us have a propane only hot water heater. And those of us with MH's don't want to have to break camp to move the RV to get propane.And when I had my TT I hated having to unhook the propane tank and schelp it to get it filled. :W

[Huntindog]

I was going to post a long detailed response.... But I have no time... You see I need some hot water... Gotta go get some sticks and start a fire. Anyone interested in a old unused water heater?:B I also build fires when I am cold, or need to cook. Anyone interested in some old unused propane tanks? (they need recertified) Also have a heater and a stove looking for a new home. With all this money I am saving, this RV lifestyle isn't costing nearly as much as I thought it would. I could have moved up from tent camping years sooner.
This is working out so well, that I want to apply these practices to my stick and bricks home. The savings here can be even greater. As I strip out all of the appliances I am not going to need anymore, my homes valuation should go down saving me tons on property taxes. Finding wood to burn in the city will be a challange. I could probably rob some that isn't really necessary from the house. As time goes on, my taxes will drop even more as my house gets smaller. I am glad I kept that old tent. When I get thru burning the house I can live in it. The money saved will be HUGE!!:B

[Old-Biscuit]

Lantley wrote:
The reality is there are no water heaters on all the time. The thermostats are turning the heaters on and off in an efficient manner to keep water hot.
The on and off control is automated. The heater turns itself on and off so we don't have to.

Atwood.turn OFF at 140*F........t-stat closes when temp is below 110*F
Suburban. turn OFF at 130*F.....t-stat closes when temp is below 100*F

[Lantley]

The reality is there are no water heaters on all the time. The thermostats are turning the heaters on and off in an efficient manner to keep water hot.
The on and off control is automated. The heater turns itself on and off so we don't have to.