Leveling a trailer

I don't carry board's just the plastic squares.

The plastic squares will work. You place them as needed under the tires on the LOW side to level side to side, and level front to back with the tongue jack. In most cases 1 or 2 under each wheel will be enough. You will also want to have enough to put one under each of the stabilizers as well.

Well I prefer boards of different widths and this is why:

The plastic squares just will not work in many cases where you need to level your trailer.

Twice recently I have been in State or National Parks where the only suitable site for my trailer was VERY un-level. In both cases I had to stack my boards 4 high, thats almost 8 inches of rise.

To get the trailer wheel up on those boards I had to use two of my longer 2x4s about 18" long, as ramps. this worked well.

This could NOT have been done with those plastic squares.

Additionally wood grips the ground surface much better than the plastic.

I carry about 10 pieces of wood of 2 different widths some are 2x8 and some are 2x4. This combination works great.

These are all short pieces so they fit snugly into a plastic organizer in my forward storage area.

The best part is the wood is very cheap as I get cut ends from the big Home stores for very little $$.

I really like my homemade version of the Andersen levelers. Very simple, no guesswork.

I stopped carrying half a lumber yard full of boards years ago.
Lynx Levelers...light weight, easy to stack and store, clean.

I carry both, plastic blocks and a few wood blocks. I find that sometimes the plastic blocks skid along on wet pavement instead of the trailer wheels rolling up on them. Of course it's not to often we camp where the pads are paved.

I installed a large metal ball level onto the front drivers side of the TT. I can view it in my side view mirror as I pull into a site. I usually just leave the trailer where I can see its level w/o using anything under the tires.
I carry 4 small blocks of urethane sealed wood as well as a stack of plastic levelers just in case I need them, but its not often.

I was once on a site in WI that required an impossible number of boards to get level. I requested a new site as that site was just not suitable for an RV. But generally I have enough boards to go to 5", very rarely do I need more than 3" worth.

At a couple of the places that we go to, when we use the (plastic) lego type leveling blocks, it makes the stabilizer jacks also need blocking. Right now, since we've only had our TT for a year, we carry the 2 x 6's and 4 x 4's along with the two sets of leveling blocks that we have.... We need to get away from the weight of the lumber because we are very close to the max of what the tow vehicle 'allows'. (we have a GMC Yukon XL, with tow package, hauling a 29' TT). My husband has the feeling that the jack pads are too slippery for the scissor jacks, hence the lumber. (but he doesn't feel unsafe stacking 4 x 4's on top of 2 x 6's...go figure) anyway, I saw a video for a DIY leveling block that put together squares of stall mat to make a full block - but stall mats are very heavy - 100lbs for a 4 x 6 piece. I was thinking of combining the two and cutting a piece of the stall mat the size of one of the blocks, securing it to just one of the blocks and then using that block as the top one that the scissor jack sits on, thereby eliminating any worry of slipping. Any thoughts?

Andersen Levelers work really well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4JQV15VzBc

Just put them in place, then back up and stop when you're level.