We have a Bigfoot 9.6 on our 2010 Dodge Ram 3500. Both the Bigfoot and Ram are long bed models, however, we have an auxiliary fuel tank in the front of the truck bed so the camper doesn't sit up against the front bulkhead of the pickup bed. The fuel tank is 12" (front to rear) and is currently mounted 6.5" from the front of the bed. Since we've replaced the 3" deep rubber bumpers with 1/2" foam, our current net position is 16" aft. We're planning on moving the fuel tank 4" forward which will reduce that to 12".Our question is about the structural integrity of the camper since the camper isn't supported fully at the rear. Note that it is currently sitting on a sheet of 3/4" plywood and 2" foam and a bed mat. We're thinking of adding a second sheet of 3/4" plywood to provide additional stiffness/support to the overhanging camper.The bottom line question is . . . Does anyone have any actual experience - good or bad - with this kind of overhang?FYI: There is zero air in the air bags when this photo was taken. Also, we are not concerned about the weight distribution/handling in this thread. Those issues are being addressed separately.

I spoke with a former engineer from Eagle Cap regarding just your set up when hauling mine on a short bed. He suggested I put to sheets of 1/2" plywood in the bed so the aft floor would have some support. Now that I have a long box truck I'm thinking of a fuel tank in the front just as you're doing. I'm looking at the camper being 12" aft for a 10-11" tank.

Campers are designed to be self-supporting - you can use them indefinitely without any floor support at all when they are sitting on their jacks. The only issue is protecting the bottom skin of the floor if you think it needs protecting. My camper is designed to over-hang - it's an 8 foot long base designed for use in a 6.5 foot bed. The real issue, as you point out, is the camper is designed to be loaded at the front of the bed for correct weight distribution.Brian

I have seen SB campers used on LB truck w/fuel cell. I have never seen a LB camper on a LB truck and fuel cell. I would be more concerned about COG then I would floor support. You will need to visit the scales to see what is going on with your axle loading.You MIGHT be unloading the front axle...Good luck, BEdit; Also, plywood would not be the material of choice to add reinforcement...it has no strength in shear.Steel beams/plates or unidirectional composite maybe...but now you are adding weight and/or $.Why not get an under bed fuel cell? Then you won't have this problem.

Yes, it does tend to "bend" the bottom structure.I've seen it on my Arctic Fox 1140 and my old Eagle Cap 1150 and both of those campers were designed and and used to fit to the truck properly.And both were built with very long overhangs.Looking at the rear tie downs and how they are applying tension to the rear overhang tells us that that rig wants to bend or break the frame of the camper.Is the internal structure of the Big Foot sufficient to withstand this type of improper mounting?Probably not.

I would spend the money and replace the aux fuel tank with an Aeroflow 60 gal replacement tank I have one on my 03 Dodge and love it.The camper is designed to be self supporting, but when used on the jacks which are at the corners. All of the overhanging weight is supported by the camper creating a cantilever effect. I think you will add too much stress over the long run. I don't think 2 sheets of plywood will prevent the flexing.Good luckSweet looking truck!

Long box camper overhang - Problem?? | Good Sam Community

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Oct 29, 2013
On my Bigfoot 3000C I have a normally very long overhang and the internal framing wasn't up to the rough roads we travel in Mexico and the campers much higher weight than a 2500. I have added an external steel frame underneath made from steel tubes under the frame rails of 1-1/2" sq 16 ga tubing(18 ga would have worked but not available). But I'm an engineer, have access to the steel and a nice MIG welder.

I agree that the offset COG is the bigger problem, if you really need the range of the extended tank, get one that fits under the bed.
Jaxom
Explorer
Oct 29, 2013
Sure makes me glad I designed my camper with the 50 gallon/12" wide auxiliary fuel tank in mind!!!

This is the front of the camper bottom. Notched to allow for the aux. fuel tank.
bka0721
Explorer II
Oct 29, 2013
SteveRankin wrote:
What we're talking about is driving the haul roads in the remote parts of the Arctic - thousands of miles of primitive gravel & mud. Some of it razor sharp shale that shreds tires. We spent many days at less than 20 MPH - some of the hairiest times were at 7-12 MPH going down an 18% grade in mud in 1st & 2nd gears in low range with the tach pegged at 3200+ RPM, or pegging the temp gauge on the Allison climbing 7 Mile Hill in the NWT. Been there, done that too. Got another box of T-shirts.

Somewhere you left out the point you mentioned above, in a previous thread. Your intentions is to take the above pictured truck and camper in areas and on roads of questionable surface conditions and you are asking the forum's opinion of whether there might be a problem with the structural integrity survivability in your upcoming use?

With this additional information known, then the informed position to answer your question would be;

Well, HEL* YES !!!!!!

Spend the bucks, move the fuel tank and stop wasting time trying to work around what is really a simple solution, using the truck, camper, tie downs for what and how they were designed to be used.

Hope this answers your question.

b
KD4UPL
Explorer
Oct 29, 2013
I have an 11' camper so it hangs 3' off a long bed. It was hauled in a standard 8' bed for the first 8 years of it's life. The last 3 years I have had it on a custom flatbed that is 5" longer than a standard pick-up bed. I can see a "kink" in the floor where the back of the bed used to ride. Since it is now supported several inches rearward of this point it makes it a lot easier to see. I'm glad it's now supported further back.
Given this observation of my own camper being hauled as it was designed to be (long bed); I would never want to haul one down the road like you're doing it. I would think that massive stresses are being placed where they weren't designed to be.
Why not swap out the fuel tank for one mounted under the truck? It would help your loading and thus your forward/backward center of gravity. It would also help lower your vertical center of gravity. Both of these things would help greatly.
Bedlam
Moderator
Oct 28, 2013
Some guys hauling UTV's in their trucks have a T-bar support coming off the hitch receiver to hold up one end of the UTV. You could do this for your camper as well, but I would recommend replacing your existing fuel tank or replacing the spare tire with an auxiliary tank. Your spare tire would then need to be relocated to the front of the truck or on the rear or undeside of the TC.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 28, 2013
The camper's designed to be USED unsupported, not HAULED.

Walking across the floor is a whole lot different than rattling down the road at high speed for thousands of miles.

Using plywood to "support" the floor is a joke. Reach under there and pull down. You can create a several-inch gap between the rear edge of the plywood and the floor of the camper with very little effort, even with 3/4". The plywood is offering ZERO support; it's just adding weight.

All I can say is, haul it like that, or don't. Completely up to you.

I personally wouldn't unless the camper was a "short bed" model, but you have clearly specified that it's a "long bed" model. The designers designed the camper to be supported along the first 8' of floor. You may break it's back, you may not. Have a contingency plan in place just in case, and remember you have no one to blame but yourself if things don't work out.
54suds
Explorer
Oct 28, 2013
I personally have owned 3 Bigfoot campers that had stress damage ( wall separation ,floor sag ,ect) in the rear quarter of the camper on the driver side this area is a known weak stress point Bigfoot even shipped one of mine back to the factory and back to me --- no charge
delosholly
Explorer
Oct 28, 2013
I would think that your insurance company would deny any claim if you had an accident because of improper loading. From the picture, it is clear that your truck is higher in the front than it should be. You have extended the torque arm by placing the TC so far back, thus lifting up on the front of your truck.
FireGuard
Explorer II
Oct 28, 2013
I would spend the money and replace the aux fuel tank with an Aeroflow 60 gal replacement tank I have one on my 03 Dodge and love it.
The camper is designed to be self supporting, but when used on the jacks which are at the corners. All of the overhanging weight is supported by the camper creating a cantilever effect. I think you will add too much stress over the long run. I don't think 2 sheets of plywood will prevent the flexing.
Good luck
Sweet looking truck!
bighatnohorse
Explorer II
Oct 28, 2013
Yes, it does tend to "bend" the bottom structure.
I've seen it on my Arctic Fox 1140 and my old Eagle Cap 1150 and both of those campers were designed and and used to fit to the truck properly.
And both were built with very long overhangs.

Looking at the rear tie downs and how they are applying tension to the rear overhang tells us that that rig wants to bend or break the frame of the camper.

Is the internal structure of the Big Foot sufficient to withstand this type of improper mounting?
Probably not.