Long shank question...

[jonmad]

I would like to be able to drop my truck tailgate while connected to my TT. I have a long shank but was wondering if there is any reason not to use it?

[JBarca]

jonmad wrote:

jonmad wrote:
So I think if I use one of the balls with the 2" lift I can use the long shank I already have. Question is will that cause a problem with the sway control or WD bars since it will change the distance between the TT frame and hitch head?

My concern is that the TT frame will be 2" higher than the hitch head which will angle the bars and sway control. Anyone think that would be a problem?

We need some more information to answer this question correctly. Any chance of a side pic of your hitch setup?

A hi rise tow ball, see here a 1" rise tow ball next to the standard


These can be used (have to watch the ball rating) to lower the hitch head on purpose to get the WD bars lower. This is needed in some cases because wide frames can create issues with the WD bars and the type of hitch you are using.

You can see here, on this 6" wide A frame, ball coupler on top, the head needs to be lowered so the trunnion lugs do not hit the A frame in a turn and create better clearance for the Reese DC and the trunnion bars



We need to know this to help give a better answer.

What is the width of your A frame?

Is the ball coupler on the top, middle or bottom of the A frame?

What type (trunnion or round bar)&(brand) of WD hitch you have now?

What type of anti sway control are you using?

Using a hi rise tow ball can be used in rise mode to get the trailer level if the shank rise is not high enough. Exp, a 1.5" rise shank + 2" hi rise tow ball can create a 3.5" rise for high ball coupler height (ground to inside ball coupler) on the TT and not having to use a monster hi rise shank pointing up in the air to hit the tail gate when lowered.

If you can, post some pics of your existing setup and we may be able to help better. Words can get lost in the translation sometimes. Pics are truly worth a million words... and tell things you never even thought about...

Hope this helps

John

PS. NOTE: If you use a hi rise tow ball, check the tow rating on the ball, it has to be large enough to carrying the entire GVWR of the TT. Many hi rise balls are not rated very high. But you can get hi rise tow ball that can handle 25,000# for only a little bit more than a 6,000# one. Key is to know to look before buying.

[JBarca]

4X4Dodger wrote:


Well my set-up is about as simple as it gets since I dont use any of the sway control apparatus as I just dont have any problem with sway. So my trailer sits closer to my truck than yours does. Also the RAM 2500 tailgate has a "lip" on the top of it that makes it a bit higher.

H'mm, are you using a "weight carrying" draw bar? That is a horse of a different color...

Meaning no weight distribution hitch?

If so, yes the weight carrying draw bars, even in 2.5" are shorter.

Question: What is your loaded TW?

The newer Reese trunnion bar hitch head is rated at 1,000# in weight carrying mode. Meaning if you buy a weight distribution shank (longer) and use a Reese HP trunnion bar head on it, it is good for 1,000# in weight carrying mode. This is a way to get longer. Not cheap, but a method.



Here is the standard drop 2.5" shank


It would look like this, no WD bars but the head could accept them is some day you needed them


Does that create an option?

[jonmad]

jonmad wrote:
So I think if I use one of the balls with the 2" lift I can use the long shank I already have. Question is will that cause a problem with the sway control or WD bars since it will change the distance between the TT frame and hitch head?

My concern is that the TT frame will be 2" higher than the hitch head which will angle the bars and sway control. Anyone think that would be a problem?

[4X4Dodger]

JBarca wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:

jonmad wrote:
If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

Mine is not 2" it is 2 1/2" and in that size I cannot find any at all but if you run across one please do let me know as I will snatch it up.

For obvious reasons I dont want to go to a reducer. (2")

Thanks

A longer 2 1/2" WD shank, h'mm that is a tuffy....

Your right, Reese only make 2 of them. I have both.

The big camper, one in my sig


The large drop/rise shank on the flat deck


The large drop shank on the older smaller camper


I can however open my tailgate and not hit the jack.

There are not a lot of options in 2 1/2". I agree, I do not want to deal with the 2 1/2" to 2" adapter either.

Do you have a unique setup?

Well my set-up is about as simple as it gets since I dont use any of the sway control apparatus as I just dont have any problem with sway. So my trailer sits closer to my truck than yours does. Also the RAM 2500 tailgate has a "lip" on the top of it that makes it a bit higher.

[4X4Dodger]

ScottG wrote:

jonmad wrote:
If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

You made the same wrong assumption I did; He wants a class V, 2.5" X 2.5".

Yes mine is 2.5x2.5 Class V, and my jack is manual and would have to be physically moved to clear the tailgate. Turning it on it's bolt pattern wont solve the problem.

The A Frame on my trailer is shorter than I would like and this is the real problem.

I have searched high and low and still cannot find a longer replacement for my Ball Mount. Reese does not have one on their website and neither does any other mfg that I can find.

I will probably have to mount a jack on the side of the A-Frame aft of the present position.

[jonmad]

So I think if I use one of the balls with the 2" lift I can use the long shank I already have. Question is will that cause a problem with the sway control or WD bars since it will change the distance between the TT frame and hitch head?

[JBarca]

4X4Dodger wrote:

jonmad wrote:
If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

Mine is not 2" it is 2 1/2" and in that size I cannot find any at all but if you run across one please do let me know as I will snatch it up.

For obvious reasons I dont want to go to a reducer. (2")

Thanks

A longer 2 1/2" WD shank, h'mm that is a tuffy....

Your right, Reese only make 2 of them. I have both.

The big camper, one in my sig


The large drop/rise shank on the flat deck


The large drop shank on the older smaller camper


I can however open my tailgate and not hit the jack.

There are not a lot of options in 2 1/2". I agree, I do not want to deal with the 2 1/2" to 2" adapter either.

Do you have a unique setup?

[4X4Dodger]

jonmad wrote:
If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

Mine is not 2" it is 2 1/2" and in that size I cannot find any at all but if you run across one please do let me know as I will snatch it up.

For obvious reasons I dont want to go to a reducer. (2")

Thanks

[ohio4whlr]

i needed a hitch that would extend and drop the ball mount so i had one fabricated from a local shop. we are towing with a Hummer H2 and it has a spare tire mounted on the back then i had to have it lower for the increased ride height of the vehicle. you can find extended ones and increased drops but not both.

[F1bNorm]

You can also replace your tongue jack with a swiveling one. An added advantage is you don't scrape the post on driveway dips.

Norm

[ScottG]

jonmad wrote:
If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

You made the same wrong assumption I did; He wants a class V, 2.5" X 2.5".

[jonmad]

If you go to Amazon and search for 2" RV hitch shanks you will find some as long as 18".

[ScottG]

4X4Dodger wrote:

ScottG wrote:
Nope. I installed one that was several inches longer for the same reason on my Reece DC and had no problem.
A few years later my buddy got the same DC setup and the new shank (or drawbar) that came with it was longer just like the aftermarket one I bought.

Where did you find this Ball Mount/Shank that is several inches longer? I have searched the internet and stores from Tractor Supply to the Uhaul place to no avail. I have a class V Reese Titan and Reese does not make them in longer lengths. There are reducers but I want to stay with the 2.5 x 2.5 class V. I only need about three inches longer.

I do find all kinds of those crazy Rube Goldberg over complicated setups for sway control systems but I simply do not need that.

Any help will be appreciated. Otherwise I need to change the location of the tongue Jack.

I was afraid you'd ask that question..
I "think" I got it from eTrailer.com.
EDIT: just noticed you want class 5 and what I have is only a 2" bar - Sorry!

As BigBird posted above, you can rotate the jack head sideways and maybe get clearance but you don't have to re-drill holes, just loosen the allen head screw in the side of it (you can see it in Big Birds pic above) and then rotate the head using the motor.

[hawkeye-08]

etrailer.com has long shanks