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Look at my hitch set up please....

lukenick
Explorer
Explorer
Does anyone see anything wrong with this? I am a newbie.

81 REPLIES 81

ata3001
Explorer
Explorer
The hitch you bought is just fine for your trailer/truck combo. It just needs to be properly set up. There are enough others on here telling you how to do it without me adding my own $.02
Ron & BJ
2008 Dutchmen Freedom Spirit FS180 w/full factory dark tinted glass. (9 .yrs w/o any issues)
2014 Chevy Silverado LT Dbl cab, 5.3 L, 4 WD, tow pkg, max payload pkg, Prodigy

hohenwald48
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
lukenick wrote:
Either the coupler needs to be mounted on top or I will need a new hitch system.


There's little sense in modifying the trailer when the simple solution is to switch to a weight distribution system which by it's design offers maximum ground clearance. Here's a pic of an Equal-i-Zer Weight Distribution Hitch mounted on our previous KZ Spree. As you can see there are no chains and the spring bars are straight unlike the "hockey stick" spring bars your current round bar chain WD system uses. There's also no need for a separate friction sway bar as sway control is a function of the design of the Equal-i-zer.


Now, take your hitch and drop the ball mount all the way down to the bottom hole and you'll see almost all of your ground clearance disappear.

Jayco intentionally designed these trailer to sit as low to the ground as possible. I have no idea why they would do that but ground clearance problems with them is not unusual. Apparently Jayco even knew it could be a problem because a 2" lift kit was available as an option.
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.

2019 Newmar Canyon Star 3627
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU

hohenwald48
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with Tom. No hitch will resolve the need for the dropped shank. Getting everything (bars etc.) higher than the shank just means the shank is going to be the low spot and drag the pavement. Potential for some serious damage when and if that happens.

If the problem is just the ends of the bars dragging, that might be fixable by simply adjusting the head tilt. First step is to get it looked at by someone who knows what they're looking at.
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.

2019 Newmar Canyon Star 3627
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU

TomG2
Explorer
Explorer
How are any of the hitches going to change the necessity for the 11 inch drop bar? The Recurve might even need more. I would lots rather skid the bottoms of the WD bars than have that 11 inch solid steel bar grab hold of a concrete ramp. The coupler needs to come up. Then you guys can sell her all the hitches she can afford.

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
lukenick wrote:
---I do believe they sell the Eaz lift Recurve R3 and R6. Those would also work out great for my situation because the round bars go on top. Let's see if they will swap it for me.---
Seems to me the Recurve would be the ideal hitch for your situation.

Ron

lukenick
Explorer
Explorer
chipperone1 wrote:
If you go with an Equalizer as was suggested -which is a good option - because the coupler is under slung the new spring bars will be lower for you than was shown in the pic by a few inches so you will not gain the full benefit of using that style of WDH.

If you keep the existing WDH get yourself a longer bar/pipe - like three feet long- to use to "snap up" the chain brackets. How long is the one you use?


The one I have is prob 12".

TomG2
Explorer
Explorer
Several have suggested that the easiest solution is to buy another hitch. Easy, as in, easy to spend her money. How about if she still needs the extended drop bar? That may be what is scraping the pavement, not the hitch bars.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
lukenick wrote:
I lift the truck so high as it is just to get the second link hooked up there is no way I would be able to get any more chain links connected. I am 110 lb female hitching up, and the tension is just too much for me.


Another WD system you might be interested in is the Andersen No Sway Hitch because it's so light, about 50 lbs if I recall correctly, and because it's tension chains sit well up near the trailer A frame.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

chipperone1
Explorer
Explorer
If you go with an Equalizer as was suggested -which is a good option - because the coupler is under slung the new spring bars will be lower for you than was shown in the pic by a few inches so you will not gain the full benefit of using that style of WDH.

If you keep the existing WDH get yourself a longer bar/pipe - like three feet long- to use to "snap up" the chain brackets. How long is the one you use?

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
The easiest and cheapest for all involved would be to swap out to a trunnion hitch. You said you got the hitch from the dealer? Have them swap it out and then see how the ground clearance issue is.

Never mind, it looks like you brought them a hitch to install!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
lukenick wrote:
Either the coupler needs to be mounted on top or I will need a new hitch system.


SoundGuy wrote:
There's little sense in modifying the trailer when the simple solution is to switch to a weight distribution system which by it's design offers maximum ground clearance. Here's a pic of an Equal-i-Zer Weight Distribution Hitch mounted on our previous KZ Spree. As you can see there are no chains and the spring bars are straight unlike the "hockey stick" spring bars your current round bar chain WD system uses. There's also no need for a separate friction sway bar as sway control is a function of the design of the Equal-i-zer.


lukenick wrote:
I would love that hitch but here is the issue. I have already spent $600 in the system they set up for me and they do not sell that particular hitch there. So its not like they could swap it out for me.


Of course they can swap it out for you. If I understand your situation correctly the dealer that sold you the trailer also sold and installed a WD system inappropriate for use on this trailer. Yes, I remember you saying this dealership is now under different ownership but if they value you as a customer they could easily swap this system you have now for an Equal-i-zer which can be purchased by any dealer whether it's a normally stocked item or not. If not, buy one yourself and if the dealer won't take your existing one back sell it privately ... either way, an Equal-i-zer will absolutely solve your problem while also providing you with one of the most highly regarded weight distribution systems on the market today.

Equal-i-Zer Hitch
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

lukenick
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
lukenick wrote:
Either the coupler needs to be mounted on top or I will need a new hitch system.


There's little sense in modifying the trailer when the simple solution is to switch to a weight distribution system which by it's design offers maximum ground clearance. Here's a pic of an Equal-i-Zer Weight Distribution Hitch mounted on our previous KZ Spree. As you can see there are no chains and the spring bars are straight unlike the "hockey stick" spring bars your current round bar chain WD system uses. There's also no need for a separate friction sway bar as sway control is a function of the design of the Equal-i-zer.


I would love that hitch but here is the issue. I have already spent $600 in the system they set up for me and they do not sell that particular hitch there. So its not like they could swap it out for me. I do believe they sell the Eaz lift Recurve R3 and R6. Those would also work out great for my situation because the round bars go on top. Let's see if they will swap it for me. Next week cannot come soon enough!!

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
lukenick wrote:
Either the coupler needs to be mounted on top or I will need a new hitch system.


There's little sense in modifying the trailer when the simple solution is to switch to a weight distribution system which by it's design offers maximum ground clearance. Here's a pic of an Equal-i-Zer Weight Distribution Hitch mounted on our previous KZ Spree. As you can see there are no chains and the spring bars are straight unlike the "hockey stick" spring bars your current round bar chain WD system uses. There's also no need for a separate friction sway bar as sway control is a function of the design of the Equal-i-zer.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

lukenick
Explorer
Explorer
chipperone1 wrote:
You learned a thing or two for sure and that can't hurt.
I hope it has not lead to confusion for you.
Knowing what you do now what do you think is the correct fix and/or what would you like the dealer to do for you?


Either the coupler needs to be mounted on top or I will need a new hitch system. I am hoping they do the best thing for my situation without charging me another cent. Ideally I'd like to avoid having to use the 11" shank because it really is "overkill" and weighs a ton. I have a harder time inserting that thing into the receiver than hitching up the round bars.