cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Low Converter Output

Saltworks
Explorer
Explorer
My trailer has been on shore power for some time and the battery is dead. I checked power to the trailer and have 120 volts AC. I checked the output from the converter at the battery and at the converter and I am only getting 4 volts DC. I have done a search and can't find a converter problem that involves low voltage output, usually it seems that they just go dead.

Any suggestions for solving this low output problem?

Thanks in advance

Bill
11 REPLIES 11

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
What model year is the travel trailer?

You have a converter/charger, not a pre-90's converter. Parallax is a converter/charger.

If there is only 4 volts, then yes the converter/charger is dead, and might not be able to be repaired. Check fuses first, and see if a GFI tripped inside the trailer to cause loss of power to receptacle that the converter is plugged into.

Plug something into the receptacle, and see if it works. If not, use a extension cord, or something to plug in the converter as soon as possible. The longer the battery is left below 12 volts, the more likely the battery will need to be replaced.

If you can not revive the converter right away, try using a portable battery charger. 10 amps will do something, even if it takes all day to charge it. 15 amps is better, and if you have one rated at 40 amps full time, it will also supply power to the lights while charging as well.

A 10 amp charger will charge the 105 amp hour battery in about 12- 15 hours. If you are using 4 lights during that time, it might take all night, but by morning (when the lights are normally off anyway) it should be full.

Good luck!

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

Saltworks
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the advice. I think it's new converter time. I got the 4 volt DC reading with the battery disconnected and also at each 12V DC circuit on the panel, so it appears that I am indeed getting only 4V output. The converter is a Parallax 7155, and I see that direct replacements are available. It also appears that the 7155 is not a "smart" charger, so maybe I'll look for a better replacement. I will double check to see that I am getting 120V to the converter (not just to the main panel) in case there is a problem with the breaker.

Bill

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Get a new converter but in the mean time, try to charge the battery with an external charger - but make sure you disconnect the battery from the RV first!
If the battery won't charge then you'll need to replace it too.
Don't take the chance of connecting the new converter to a shorted battery!!!

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Saltworks wrote:


Any suggestions for solving this low output problem?

Bill


YEP.....new converter.

Best Converter......Ask Randy........LINK
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
4-5VDC is usually what a 12VDC battery reads when it has a shorted cell or two. It could be the converter may have boiled out your battery fluids over time and it has shorted internally. Check the battery for proper fluids and if that is normal then check for blown fuses or circuit breaker between the battery terminals and the converter terminal. There is also two REVERSE POLARITY fuses on the 12VDC distribution panel that may blow if the battery has a shorted cell in it or maybe occured when the battery was sparked good when inproperly connecting the terminals in reverse order.

Like said above with just the converter plugged in too 120VAC and not connected to the battery it will put out a constant 13.6VDC.

The two areas of concern here is the converter/charger unit and the batteries including the connection path between the two units.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
If you measuring converter output at converter level (vs battery) then you likely have bad converter - but if your measuring at battery I suggest you check around for nearby auto reset circuit breaker (Google for pic) which when blown cuts off converter from battery.
Kevin

Bigbird65
Explorer
Explorer
Bill, since the lights run off of the converter, are the lights at normal brightness when the trailer is on shore power?
2017 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 5.7L Hemi, 8 speed 3.21
2018 Winnebago Minnie 2250DS

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Anything less than 13.2 is new converter time. Bench test before you spend money. You probably soon need a new battery too. Post the converter model for best replacement options. Do yourself and the battery a favor by getting a multistage converter.

the_bear_II
Explorer
Explorer
Sometimes the connections for our converter seem to come loose or get corroded. I take them loose, clean the connections, put them back together and evrything is fine.

On our RV there is a small circuit breaker near the battery box. From time to time this trips and I have to push in a very small micro switch located on the circuit breaker to reset it. There are 3 circuit breakers one for each slideout and one for the converter.

The converter also has a reset button.

Double_Haul
Explorer
Explorer
Your converter is probably dead. Call Best Converter and get a new converter. That's what I did when mine was reading 3 volts at the converter.
2016 Chevy 2500HD LTZ Crew Cab, Duramax
2005 Terry 270FQS
2006 North River 20' Seahawk

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
If voltage measured at converter and battery are both 4 volts, your converter is not putting out a charging voltage and you are just reading battery voltage at both points of measurement.

Could be just a fuse or possibly no AC input power to converter, but you did state there was 120Vac verified at the converter input. Check fuses if they are readily accessible and remove battery and have it checked, recharge with portable if deemed OK.

If fuses are the cause you can check converter output (carefully) without battery to verify proper operation which is indicated by an output voltage of 13.2 Vdc or higher. If converter has bit the dust, Randy at bestconverter.com should have an easily installed replacement, a positive is that the new converter may have improved charging characteristics, particularly important if you do get new batteries.