In a travel trailer I'm considering buying (a 2017 Gulf Stream Vista Cruiser 23RSS), the floor plan is as follows: At the factory, the fresh water tank is installed below the "Queen Size Bed" at the front of the trailer (to the driver's side.) Being a bit concerned about having all that weight forward, I wonder if you guys think that moving that fresh water tank to the exact rear of the trailer, below the driver's side bench in the dinette (it fits) would be a good idea or not? Also, would you think that it is a major piece of work or should it be relatively "simple"?Thanks!

Terrible idea :S ... why in the world would you want to move the weight of water that should be in front of the axles to the rear, aft of the axles where it will only unload the trailer tongue? :h

Bad idea! Unless you never plan on towing it with any water in the tank. Reducing tongue weight and water sloshing around behind the axles will lead to sway.If you're worried about that little extra tongue weight, me thinks you are looking at too much trailer or have too little of a tow vehicle. Having to modify a tt right off the lot just to make it work is not the way you want to start.

More than bad idea, it's a horribly bad idea. If you want to travel with water in the tanks, the weight on the end will reduce tongue weight, it will cause excessive trailer sway, it will void any warranty you may have on the camper, it will will require a lot of unnecessary work and refabrication, which will definitely void any warranty on the camper. Campers are simply NOT made to be customized. You'll have a nightmare running new water lines.Fresh water tank is only 28 gallons (Click here for stats.) That's a small tank. Water weighs about 8 pounds a gallon, thats only about 224 pounds being distributed between the axles and the hitch. So at most, about half that will be on the hitch if the tank is full. 112 pounds on the hitch is not going to make THAT much difference, unless you are towing with a Volkswagon Bug.

This design has 2 storage compartments at the very back and the TT has plenty of CCC (2,411# cargo carrying capacity). So you can maintain your balance with stuff back there.

Carry less water while on the move. I would think by looking at your floorplan, its designed (engineered) to work as built to distribute weight where its designed to be carried. Buy yourself a Sherline tongue scale to see your actual tongue weight as you load things into the trailer. Redistribute your stuff as needed to balance the load, at the same time, keeping your tongue weight within the TV specs.

Moving fresh water tank to the rear | Good Sam Community

Palindat
Explorer
Feb 01, 2017
Can-Am RV Center sets up a lot of smaller vehicles to tow RV's. Here is the web site
http://www.canamrv.ca/

Maybe you can get some ideas on what to modify on your tow vehicle to make it work.
Fiddlestix
Explorer
Dec 07, 2016
Am joining this discussion a bit late. But will just say that I read these forums and others before I bought my tow vehicle. I remained patient, and landed a cherry 99 f350 dually w/7.3 and 4:10 rear end. My TT weighs in at about 6500 and I put a 1000 motorcycle in the bed. Needless to say I am thrilled with my rig and don't have a fortune tied up in it. Thanks to the many people in the forums.
Huntindog
Explorer
Nov 18, 2016
marininn wrote:
Move the weight to above the axles, but not behind the axles. That will take weight off the tongue without causing the dreaded sway.That is not necessairly true. Reducing TW WILL make it more likely to sway, that is an absolute. TW is your friend. One cannot have too much of it, other than practical considerations of the ability of the associated parts to support it.
Usually this foolhardy endeavour is attempted to make up for the shortcoming of ones TV... Doing so gets one close to the worst of both worlds. An inadequate TV that is more likely to sway. Moving it back any number of inches towards the axle, but not behind them will reduce tongue weight. Look at the open bed semi rigs on the road, they usually put the weight on the trailer axles without issue. Of course their axles are the back of the trailer.
I move my tanks around on all the trailers/RVs I have owned. Never to the back, but just move to customize my floor plan. It is a bit of work to redo all the water connections and pipes, then rebuild cabinets but nothing but busy work mostly.
You need to consider the filler tube, the outlet pipe to the pump, the pump location, the routing to where it was connected and to the boiler.
I dont comment outside your question, on your tV, so good luck.
marininn
Explorer
Nov 18, 2016
Move the weight to above the axles, but not behind the axles. That will take weight off the tongue without causing the dreaded sway. Moving it back any number of inches towards the axle, but not behind them will reduce tongue weight. Look at the open bed semi rigs on the road, they usually put the weight on the trailer axles without issue. Of course their axles are the back of the trailer.
I move my tanks around on all the trailers/RVs I have owned. Never to the back, but just move to customize my floor plan. It is a bit of work to redo all the water connections and pipes, then rebuild cabinets but nothing but busy work mostly.
You need to consider the filler tube, the outlet pipe to the pump, the pump location, the routing to where it was connected and to the boiler.
I dont comment outside your question, on your tV, so good luck.
colliehauler
Explorer III
Nov 07, 2016
Old-Biscuit wrote:
FOur pages on other thread basically stating....SUV not good match for that TT

SO OP..comes at it from another direction. :B

Sure why not....just dry camp. DRY as in no water, dry as in empty trailer dry as in don't take anything along

:S

Want to tow with that SUV.OK fine
Just look at something that is within it's real world tow capacity....like a pop-up

Want that trailer.....OK fine
Buy a bigger more capable tow vehicle

But the two together....sure fine. Justify it, ostrich it but don't kid yourself.
They are NOT a good match up

And I'm even agreeing with Soundguy :S
Well I agree with SoundGuy as well, he was spot on. I suggested a pop-up as well in the OP'S previous post if he is intent on towing with the Mitsubishi.

You sound like a very polite person and sometimes the answers seem a little harsh. The truth is you are lucky to ask the question before you buy to make a informed decision.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Nov 07, 2016
RinconVTR wrote:

...I am simply proving by REAL LIFE EXAMPLE how absurdly foolish people on this forum can become.

The OP can in fact tow the trailer they wish to to tow, SAFE and EFFECTIVELY when set up properly....

One - your above statement is BS.

Two - your rig has no bearing on this conversation.

Three - this isn't your thread.

If the empty tongue weight is more than the hitch rating of the TV there is no way to safely tow the trailer, period.
2012Coleman
Explorer II
Nov 07, 2016
RV.Net wrote:
It's doable

Clearly, the most overgeneralized term on this topic.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Nov 07, 2016
RinconVTR wrote:
Enough with the fluff and puffed chests. I have the facts and first hand experience.

I would like to help people enjoy RV life without fear mongering.

And this is where I will end it. Good luck OP! I wish you well.

Pretty obvious who has the "fluff and puffed chest" here. :W Thank goodness you've finally decided to end it. :R

As for the OP I suspect he's long been convinced of what works and what is ill advised. ;)
RinconVTR
Explorer
Nov 07, 2016
Old-Biscuit wrote:
RinconVTR wrote:

I am still unclear what point is to be made here. As if those towing with large trucks have no issues? Not true at all.

Whatever. Here's the deal;

Am I towing 2-3 week national trips today with the same mid-size SUV...NO.

Would I change anything about the 3 summers I towed with a mid-size SUV within 250 miles of home...NO. Absolutely NOT.

Real question is........

When did this post become about you and what you tow?

OP is asking about a trailer that is OVER the capabilities of his SUV

Stay within capabilities/ratings and doesn't matter what you tow with.
Ignore capabilities/ratings and doesn't matter if its a 1 ton DRW it is OVER Weight.

Simple.

Oh, this is not about me. Dont try to fool anyone, Mr Oldman.

I am simply proving by REAL LIFE EXAMPLE how absurdly foolish people on this forum can become.

The OP can in fact tow the trailer they wish to to tow, SAFE and EFFECTIVELY when set up properly.

Will it be comfortable? NO. No not exactly the same as towing with a 1/2 ton or larger. But it CAN be done for those few occasions per year for MANY who wish to camp within a couple hundred miles of home.

Enough with the fluff and puffed chests. I have the facts and first hand experience.

I would like to help people enjoy RV life without fear mongering.

And this is where I will end. Good luck OP! I wish you well.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Nov 07, 2016
RinconVTR wrote:

I am still unclear what point is to be made here. As if those towing with large trucks have no issues? Not true at all.

Whatever. Here's the deal;

Am I towing 2-3 week national trips today with the same mid-size SUV...NO.

Would I change anything about the 3 summers I towed with a mid-size SUV within 250 miles of home...NO. Absolutely NOT.

Real question is........

When did this post become about you and what you tow?

OP is asking about a trailer that is OVER the capabilities of his SUV

Stay within capabilities/ratings and doesn't matter what you tow with.
Ignore capabilities/ratings and doesn't matter if its a 1 ton DRW it is OVER Weight.

Simple.

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Moving fresh water tank to the rear

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