Hello all. Im trading in my 30 amp rig for a bigger rig with dual ac units and 50 amp.I used to run an extension cord from the garage and with the use of an adaptor,plug in for the frige and keep battery charged.My new unit does not use propane for the frige but runs off battery instead.I would like to run the extension cord like I used to to keep the battery charged.Is it ok to run 110 to the 50 amp power cord?

Yes, so long as you are only charging batteries and maybe one AC unit depending on the cord and the outlet (20 amp) that you are plugging into.If your fridge is using AC power from an inverter, it MAY/PROBABLY/USUALLY has an automatic function that switches from inverter usage to run directly from the AC shore power, it that is the case, you likely will not be able to run the air conditioners with the reefer running also from the 20 amp circuit.

WanderingaimlesslyI'm glad you edited your reply. Had family-of-five used that extension cord and 20amp adapter set-up to run a converter/charger, inverter, fridge and AC....something would give (burn up). Usually the AC first.Family-of-five should have a 30A or 50A outlet/breaker install closer to the RV.I did my 30A for under $200.

For what the OP is asking, it would be okay using at least a 12 ga cord that is not super long. I agree with jdc1, and would add, all items mentioned including AC, would be a hefty load, even for a 30A dedicated circuit, but do able, if not a really long run.Jerry

I would use your 50A cord run to the outlet and a dogbone to connect to the receptacle. Then switch off all the circuit breakers to ACs and any other electricity hogs just so nothing gets turned on accidentally.Best scenario is to install a 50A receptacle.

Continue to use the system that served your 30 amp RV.If there is an Energy Management System, I'd set it to 15 amps to limit breaker tripping at the shore power breaker box.Do use a #12 or #10 extension cord, if greater length is needed.

moving up to 50 amp from 30 | Good Sam Community

Bobbo
Explorer II
Jul 13, 2020
I have a 30 amp RV, but when I ran mine, I ran 6g wire and put in a 50/30/20 box. It was not much more expensive, and no matter what I do in the future, I am ready. I absolutely hate having to do something twice because I cheaped out the first time.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Jul 13, 2020
Family-of-five wrote:
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.

Concur !

Before you make a final decision, get pricing on both a 120VAC 30A and a 240VAC 50A. The biggest cost is going to be digging the trench !
wildtoad
Explorer II
Jul 12, 2020
If we’re me with a new unit, I bite the bullet and call in a electrician and run a circuit that supports the unit. A one time expense you will thank yourself for down the road.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 12, 2020
Family-of-five wrote:
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.

If you are doing DIY there is little cost difference to going to 50 amp.
valhalla360
Navigator
Jul 12, 2020
Just confirm you don't have any 220v appliances (not common) and otherwise, it should be fine. If you do, kill the breakers to the 220v appliances before plugging in.

You will be limited on what you can run (maybe 1 air/con...definitely not both). But just running the fridge and keeping the battery charged, shouldn't be an issue.
Family-of-five
Explorer
Jul 12, 2020
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.
time2roll
Nomad
Jul 12, 2020
Family-of-five wrote:
My new unit does not use propane for the frige but runs off battery instead.I would like to run the extension cord like I used to to keep the battery charged.Is it ok to run 110 to the 50 amp power cord?
OK so I assume you have a residential compressor fridge. There should be a way to run this direct on 120v power when you are plugged in at home or at camp. Battery power s/b just in transit or camped off-grid.

Otherwise the extension cord is fine. I recommend #12 wire for the cord.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jul 12, 2020
If you proceed, I’m sure you’ll be careful in line with the comments above. Will your DW, kids and friends? Better to install adequate power.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 12, 2020
Continue to use the system that served your 30 amp RV.

If there is an Energy Management System, I'd set it to 15 amps to limit breaker tripping at the shore power breaker box.

Do use a #12 or #10 extension cord, if greater length is needed.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Jul 12, 2020
I would use your 50A cord run to the outlet and a dogbone to connect to the receptacle. Then switch off all the circuit breakers to ACs and any other electricity hogs just so nothing gets turned on accidentally.
Best scenario is to install a 50A receptacle.

Forum Discussion

moving up to 50 amp from 30

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

stupid move

Moving west

Benefit of 50 amp over 30 amp

tt moves

amps