My Electric System - Am I going to die?

[johnnylawless]

Travel Trailer: 1983 Man-O-War 15'

Where the 120V AC 30amp comes inside (driver side):


Converter Close Up (passenger side, front corner):
Input Current - 3.75 Amps AC
Input Voltage - 120 Volts AC
Output Current - 25 Amps DC
Output Voltage - 12.6 Volts DC


Converter Overhead (passenger side, front corner):


Fuses Closeup (driver side, front corner):


Fuses Overhead (driver side, front corner):



QUESTION #1: Is there an immediate concern?
So that fuse box looks pretty corroded. Is that a bad thing? What about the stripped paneling to the top right and left of the fuse box, is that from excessive heat?

QUESTION #2: What is the loose bundle coming out of the right side
of the fuse box?

QUESTION #3: Flipped fuse? No fuse? Everything I've tested seems to work on shore power.
I have no battery yet. What is the point of this fusebox, is it to prevent over draw from 12V DC items (currently only lights I think)?

QUESTION #4: What is the loose wire (red/yellow) coming out of the converter? Is that for the battery connection?

QUESTION #5: Any idea if a battery will power my AC Outlets or are they shore power only?


Miscellaneous Questions:
* Any idea what amp fuses those are?
* How do I add a battery?
* Does this electrical look original or custom?
* Am I going to die?

Thank you in advance for your help!

[johnnylawless]

According to the DC electrical diagram, the battery plugs into the fusebox (and not directly into the converter)????

EDIT: Nevermind, I understand now that the battery should be wired BETWEEN the Converter and the DC Fuse Block.

[johnnylawless]

hddecker wrote:

johnnylawless wrote:
That diagram clears it up some for me. I just have to find my hidden DC fusebox.

The DC fuse box is the thing with all the corrosion.

I'm hoping that's not the case 🙂

I'll test it this weekend.

[hddecker]

johnnylawless wrote:
That diagram clears it up some for me. I just have to find my hidden DC fusebox.

The DC fuse box is the thing with all the corrosion.

[johnnylawless]

That diagram clears it up some for me. I just have to find my hidden DC fusebox.

[BurbMan]

Typical 12v outlet is a cig lighter socket like in a car.

No reason you couldn't add a fan once you get the wiring sorted out. I replaced my WFCO 8955 converter/charger with a Progressive Dynamics unit a few years ago to get a better charging curve for the batteries. The WFCO unit puts out 55 amps and still works fine, and it has a 12V distribution panel built in, but doesn't have the plastic case. See here.

If you are looking to re-do the wiring in the TT and upgrade the old converter you have, I would be happy to send you the WFCO FOR FREE if you pay the shipping. PM if interested.

Typical 12v trailer wiring:

[johnnylawless]

Is there such a thing as a 12V "outlet" ?

I think mine is all hardwired directly to the lights and water pump. Was wanting to add a vent fan, but I'm probably out of luck.

[BurbMan]

A 4 flat is just stop/turn/running lights, a 5 flat has an extra lead for brakes. If you doing rewiring you may want to go to the standard 7-round that includes a battery charge line and backup light connection. Even though it's only 15' I would think that it would have brakes. Most states require them on trailers over 3000 lbs, but some are less at 1500 lbs or even 1000 lbs. If you are rebuilding this trailer to travel with, you may want to consider adding brakes if it doesn't have them already.

[johnnylawless]

There are working TT electric hookups, so it has been rewired. It's a 4 or 5 way flat. I'm not sure about trailer brakes. My dad is going to look at it with me this weekend.

We'll be doing some interior painting while I investigate the electrical sys.

[BurbMan]

It looks like those fuses were for the running lights and stop/turn lights on the TT. The power would have been coming into that corroded fuse block from what was the tow vehicle cord, which looks like it was cut off. So that fuse block should be dead. Note the blue wire in that cut off bundle that doesn't go through the fuse block would have been for the electric trailer brakes. Is it connected to anything now?

So, first question, is there a cord on the trailer that plugs into the tow vehicle? If so where does it attach to? If not, you would reconnect a new one here. and as noted by westend you can get rid of the fuse block altogether.

The Converter is also your charger, and as noted probably won't do a very good job. Unless you can find a separate charger elsewhere but I am betting you won't. There will be fuses protecting the lighting and other 12V circuits in the trailer, they are not the fuse block pictured but must be elsewhere. They can be inside the converter or if not follow the 12V wires leaving the converter and see if there is another fuse block downstream. Although on second look it almost looks like the converter is not connected to anything with the red/yellow wires dangling. This unit may have been abandoned and replaced with something newer elsewhere in the trailer.

You need to keep looking in all the nooks/crannies and see what else you got there, these pics don't tell the whole story.

Bad news, you will die eventually...one thing about life is that nobody gets out alive....Good news, is that this isn't likely to be the cause!

[johnnylawless]

I'm going to pull the trailer out from my storage spot and do the poking around tomorrow. My autosense multimeter should be in today.

[westend]

johnnylawless wrote:
Just so I'm clear, is there SUPPOSED to be a fuse block/box between the converter and 12V loads (lights,etc.)?

There may be or not. My '71 Progressive Dynamics 808 converter had three fused circuits in the converter. These three fuses protected individual 12V circuits. Your power supply may have the same type of fuse protection. You may also have protection from the afore pictured fuse terminal board. Have you found out what all of those wires power? How about that brake question? That may prove to be pretty important. The laws have changed in most States since 1971 and if you don't have electric brakes and a break-away system, you may have to add that. That will also dictate battery need and wiring configurations.

[enblethen]

yes, there should be a number of fuses. Even though your rig is a little older then most, they did have fuses in that time period.
Locate your 120 volt circuit breakers. Look t the right of them. These maybe a small metal cover held in place by a thumb screw. If it has one, remove cover and that is where the fuses could be. Just read your next post. yours could be else where. You may need to trace out the 12 volt wires to locate the fuses.
On my old '78 rig, I had fuses for the furnace, lights, water pump, and refer.

[johnnylawless]

Also, not pictured is the standard grey breaker box above where the 120VAC comes in.

[johnnylawless]

Just so I'm clear, is there SUPPOSED to be a fuse block/box between the converter and 12V loads (lights,etc.)?