Need some help - going on a trip Thursday (well maybe)

[dvitale300]

Hi - going on a trip Thursday. I have a Starcraft 28BHS (2015). It has a 6 gal Atwood gas water heater.

I can get the heater to kick on and run for 20 minutes (sometimes), but not a lot of hot water. Most of the time, the heater starts and then, after a series of clicks, shuts off. I am thinking that there's a thermostat issue but not sure.

I have switched the propane tanks, furnace and stove work fine. I checked the water connections / valves - no problem that I can see. Water pump is working fine - I can get water to everywhere in the unit.

Is there a way I can "unplug" the cut-off so that I can use the unit on the trip - or am I in the position of having to replace the thermo stuff, etc. (which I probably can't do in time). Just thought I should ask before I cancel the trip. Thanks - david

[westend]

Unfortunately the manual also confirmed that temperature is factory set.

Inquiring minds want to know.

On some heaters, I've read, the thermostats can be replaced by one of a different temp setting. I'd assume that the heater MFG's install a thermostat that complies with reasonable temperature and pressure,i.e. not a higher temp thermostat that may cause an issue.

On some, you could choose a lower value to keep away from 140f water, if that's a concern.

[rbpru]

Well once again the collective wisdom of the board shines through. I looked at my TT's electrical box and sure enough the water heater is fused for 120 volts.

A review of the manual show a power draw of 1400 watts. That would toast a battery pretty quickly.

This model also has the gas option with an electrical ignition source. I am told that they can be used together if the water demand is high.

Unfortunately the manual also confirmed that temperature is factory set.

Inquiring minds want to know. 🙂

[SoundGuy]

rbpru wrote:
Well I will put it this way, when I am not on shore power and turn on the water heater switch it lights up.

Of course it does, you have a DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) water heater that's running on propane gas and requires 12 vdc to operate the DSI function. Some models do have an optional 120 vac electric heating element but obviously it's not functional unless your trailer is plugged into shore power or other source of 120 vac power such as a genset. There are none that I know of that have a 12 vdc heating element as it would draw way too much power from the battery.

[hawkeye-08]

yes, you can convert a gas only to electric on most units. The anode rod is replaced with a heating element, I think one of them is called hot rod. You have to have someplace to plug the element in.

Our hot water worked intermittently until I cleaned the connections, it works as it should now.

[rbpru]

Well I will put it this way, when I am not on shore power and turn on the water heater switch it lights up.

I assumed the heater was drawing power from the battery or the battery charger. I never though about it because we almost always have shore power and I don't use it if we do not.

I will have to check the fuse and circuit breakers. If it is fused it is 12 volt, if it goes through a breaker it will be 120 volts.

I only have a single 12 volt battery so now I am curious.

Thanks for the hint.

[asullivan920]

dvitale300 wrote:
The seating of the connections might be the trick. I went out about an hour ago, unplugged a few of the switches, blew on them, cleaned them with a rag, unplugged the thermostat coil, plugged it in. Turned on the unit - fire up, click, click, click, then stopped with the light next to the switch. Said F-it - came in to check this forum, had dinner, went out a little while ago - working to perfection. Water is very hot, system was waiting for a drop in temp - then re-cycled on to reheat new water. Going to go on the trip - and if the thing doesn't work will get a $29 hotel for showers (we're boon-docking so it's less than a hook-up anyway). When this is all over I'm going to replace the unit with a gas/electric unit - which is what I should have had in the first place.

If your going to replace it I would look into a instant/tank less unit. I have seen them in some of the high end RV's. Thats my plan if/when my water heater goes out.

[SoundGuy]

rbpru wrote:
My water heater is a gas/electric, although the electric is 12 volts.

The electric is quite fast so I rarely use the gas. We do not boondock.

SoundGuy wrote:
Huh? What RV water heater electric element runs on 12 vdc, not 120 vac? :h

hohenwald48 wrote:
The one in the RV towing the utility trailer with 60 batteries in it. 🙂

Silly me, how could I have missed that? :W

[hohenwald48]

SoundGuy wrote:

rbpru wrote:
My water heater is a gas/electric, although the electric is 12 volts.

The electric is quite fast so I rarely use the gas. We do not boondock.

Huh? What RV water heater electric element runs on 12 vdc, not 120 vac? :h

The one in the RV towing the utility trailer with 60 batteries in it. 🙂

[SoundGuy]

rbpru wrote:
My water heater is a gas/electric, although the electric is 12 volts.

The electric is quite fast so I rarely use the gas. We do not boondock.

Huh? What RV water heater electric element runs on 12 vdc, not 120 vac? :h

[harley4275]

If you have not gone on your trip yet ...go. I went to Alaska and Yukon last year with a truck camper . hot water tank was drained and bypassed as we never needed it . Boiled water in a pan for dishes and alot of places,eg laundry mats,stores ,campgrounds ,town parks etc, have showers for $4 per person.
fix water heater when you get back.

[rbpru]

My water heater is a gas/electric, although the electric is 12 volts.

The electric is quite fast so I rarely use the gas. We do not boondock.

My water heat came preset at the factory and it is hot hot hot. At times it will bleed off through the pop-it valve.

Fortunately it is also very well insulated so I can run it for 20 minute in the morning and I am set for the rest of the day. We fire it up again for dishes and we are set through the evening.

I do wish it was not preset at the factory.

[hohenwald48]

Not at all advocating for disabling any of the safety features on a residential water heater as they are very important. However, in most home type environments, something will usually give in the plumbing system before the pressure gets high enough to blow the bottom out of a water heater.

The heater on MythBusters was not connected to a faucet, toilet or anything else so the tank was the weak spot. Normally the tank is the strongest component in the system. A tank shooting up like a rocket does make good TV.

To the OP,
A lot of times problems with refers, water heaters and furnaces can be resolved by simply removing and reconnecting all the spade lugs and plugs on the device. Those connections are pretty much exposed to the elements and tend to corrode a good bit. Reseating improves the electrical connections.

[RPreeb]

rbpru wrote:
You can heat water in a tea kettle to do dishes and wash you face.

We often have to dry camp for a couple of day when we head south in the winter, until it is warm enough to add water.

You can certainly take a bath of sorts that way. After all when boondocking, I would probably take that sort of a bath most of the time anyway. I've bathed in very cold water (straight out of a Montana creek in September), and I managed to bathe/shower using a Sunshower (sun heated water bag) when backpacking and river kayaking. I wouldn't consider a hot water shortage to be a reason to cancel a trip.

[westend]

There are after market electrical elements that can be installed in a gas-only water heater. This allows an electric element to be used instead of buying another water heater.

hot rod kit